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Author Topic: clutch problem solved  (Read 1320 times)
elpaso jo
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Posts: 97

Meath Co. Ireland


« on: September 01, 2012, 09:05:15 AM »

I have been working with Joe for solutions to his clutch and managed to fix it today.  I had bled the clutch master and slave cylinders in a variety of ways and only gained slight improvement in opening the clutch disk packs. I used a 50ml animal syringe and a combination of two one-way valves to pump fluid in through the bleed nipple and also draw fluid from the bleed nipple in attempts to bleed it. I made sure to tilt the reservoir so that the inlet banjo joint was lower that the reservoir so as to avoid air being trapped in the dome above the banjo joint.
The main remedy in the end was to effectively lengthen to pushrod that connects the lever to the master cylinder. This pushes the master piston further into the cylinder which displaces more fluid into the slave cylinder. I achieved the effective lengthening of the pushrod by inserting a 2mm spacer into the hole in the brass cylinder bearing in the lever that the pushrod sits into.  Initially this resulted in no free travel in the lever so I filed a little off the butt of the lever to give the lever more movement away from the handle grip.
What you think chris
I am assuming that pushing the master piston further into its cylinder will not damage the piston or its seals. I would be grateful if anyone had a view on this.
In bleeding the clutch several times I began to recycle the fluid and suspect that air may enter the fluid as it is piped from container to reservoir and back again. Is this possible?
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14802


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2012, 09:40:18 AM »

Well, if it worked, it worked.  I generally dont go for fixes that change or add parts.  My suspicion is you will have further problems eventually down the road and someday you will find the real cause of the trouble.  If that never happenes and it continues to work...GREAT, I cant see how what you did could hurt as long as the clutch is fully engaging (no slipping) and you can shift gears and find neutral.........I hope your ingenuity pays off
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Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2012, 10:48:00 AM »

Watch the master cylinder for a leak from the seal around the piston. Sometimes when you change the stroke of the piston they will weep/leak some fluid over time.
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elpaso jo
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Posts: 97

Meath Co. Ireland


« Reply #3 on: September 01, 2012, 12:28:43 PM »

Chris/pete thank you for the advice as always.My brother knows a lot more than I, and i should have got him to explain the whole problem to you guys in the first place,
Thank you all again.
Safe riding
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TOOC
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Posts: 19


« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2012, 04:28:25 PM »

The modification fixed the gear change problem but on a 5ml run the free travel disappeared and the lever would not pull to within 0.5 in of the grip. The clutch eventually began to slip. It was help partially open/pulled by buid up of fluid between the master and slave. It took me a while to figure that the master cylinder was acting like a hydraulic jack.  It was not allowing fluid to flow back from the slave after each pull of the lever. I had not allowed for enough free travel in the master piston. It was not returning fully to a rest position to allow the fluid to leak back from the slave. I achieved more free travel by filing away a small layer off the heel of the lever that controls its rest position. It has been functioning perfect for a few 5k runs since. I know I need to test it further.
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