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Author Topic: what to do at 50,000 miles  (Read 2286 times)
Wewaman
Member
*****
Posts: 423


Dead Lakes Cruiser

Wewa, Fla.


« on: November 01, 2012, 07:52:32 AM »

Hey all,
  I have a 2003 standard and it is nearing 50,000 miles and I am going to go the Dark side.
My Question to the GURUs is what do I need to do/ replace while I am in there?   I am not sure what has been done in the past as far as I know it has just had tires replaced.  I already have the thrust washer and 3 o'rings I have new brake pads front and rear also a goodyear 205/65/16 did the nut cage mod also. 

This is my first time trying to remove the rear wheel/ tire but with all the knowledge on this board I am sure I can get it done.

Thanks in advance,

Tony
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X Ring
Member
*****
Posts: 3626


VRCC #27389, VRCCDS #204

The Landmass Between Mobile And New Orleans


« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2012, 08:13:01 AM »

I removed everything in the drive train from the u joint back, cleaned, inspected, regreased and reassembled it.  The thought of doing it was more daunting then actually doing it.   If you don't have the shop manual, go to http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html and download a scanned copy.  Print out the pages you need and have someone either nearby that can help or have the phone number of someone that can talk you through it.  There are members of this board that never worked on their Valks that have done this.  You can too.

Marty
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old2soon
Member
*****
Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2012, 08:46:43 AM »

Pulling that back end down really aint all that bad or all that hard. It's really just a step by step process off and back on. Have some cans or pans or whatever you have to put your nuts and bolts in. Most if not all the folks on this board are willing to help talk you thru it or if they live close enough will either direct you or be happy to get their hands dirty with ya. Good luck with it and happy wrenching. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Patrick
Member
*****
Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2012, 09:48:51 AM »

I agree.. Check everything from the u-joint back  including wheel bearings and replace whats needed.. Assemble correctly as in the manual.. Might as well change the rear fluid while you're at it..
It sounds like you're new to this monster and don't have much of its history.. So,, checking all the vacuum lines, fuel lines, etc.. would be a good thing to do and even a valve lash check.. You may never what has or hasn't been done[  or if it was done correctly] ..
None of this work is too bad to do..
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Hoser
Member
*****
Posts: 5844


child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #4 on: November 01, 2012, 11:29:16 AM »

If it has had the normal maintenence done at regular intervals and done correctly, Just put on another 50000 miles.   cooldude  Hoser
Next stop...

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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: November 01, 2012, 11:40:51 AM »

I have new brake pads front and rear


Already installed, or ready to install? Original brake fluid might (probably) look like this:



My bike has 75k on it... I've refurbed all the calipers several times at intervals, it is pretty easy
except for maybe the first time - the pad pins might be hard to get out, and the little cap over
them, too... after you do it, and put antiseize on their threads, not so hard. There's a couple of
seals in each caliper, nothing else. I don't know what they make those rubber booties out of,
but I've never seen a ripped one. I rebuilt my front brake master cylinder the last time I did
the front calipers (a few months ago) and changed out the old OEM front brake lines for new OEM ones.
My front brakes are AWESOME  cooldude

-Mike
« Last Edit: November 05, 2012, 10:27:10 AM by hubcapsc » Logged

Wewaman
Member
*****
Posts: 423


Dead Lakes Cruiser

Wewa, Fla.


« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2012, 09:31:59 AM »

Hey thanks for the input.  I just bought a Clymer manual,  is that the same as the F6C download posted  here? and how hard is it to do the wheel bearings?   So the 3 o'rings and thrust washer I have, does it matter what brand of Grease and moly paste I use or can I use whatever I buy from now on?   also what kind of gear oil is eveyone using.  I haven't looked it up in the Clymer but maybe it will say in there.
 Thaks again for your input, cooldude

Tony
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If you please God it doesn't matter who you displease   but if you displease God it doesn't matter who you please Smiley
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2012, 10:25:40 AM »


I just bought a Clymer manual,  is that the same as the F6C download posted  here?

Nope. The download one is the one from Honda, I have a hard copy of it, they're $30 or $40...
If you're happy looking at the download one on your computer, having both is probably
better than having just one, so you should be in good shape there.

and how hard is it to do the wheel bearings?   

I changed mine when I first got my Valkyrie, there's help here, in the manual and on the SHOPTALK link
on this site... my opinion now is: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

does it matter what brand of Grease and moly paste I use or
can I use whatever I buy from now on?   also what kind of gear oil is eveyone using. 


There's wrong places to put moly paste (in the pinion cup for example) but probably not a wrong kind.
Some people with perfect splines don't even use moly paste, just good grease, it is hard to argue
with people who have perfect splines... The Honda manual specifies what weight of hypoid oil to
use in the final drive, I matched that up to a bottle of stuff down at Advance and have been using
that... it is pretty safe, though it might not be the cheapest, to just use Honda lubricants all around, unless
you're like me and put moly paste in your pinion cup  Roll Eyes

-Mike
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salty1
Member
*****
Posts: 2359


"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2012, 12:15:33 PM »

Take a serious look at the Maintenace Schedule in the service manual, page 3-3. Use the site shown above for the download if you dont have it. This should keep you busy, particularly if your new to the bike. By the way, congrats on your choice of motorcycle.
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

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