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Author Topic: Rear Drive Dampers  (Read 8078 times)
Quixote
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Posts: 10

Central Oregon


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« on: January 31, 2013, 08:18:13 AM »

Hi Folks,

I was just about to reinstall my rear wheel when I noticed that the driven flange has more than 1/16" of rotational slop. This is caused by the rear dampers fitting loosely into the rear hub. My question is: Do new dampers fit more tightly? The manual suggests that I look for deterioration of the dampers including wear of the rubbers. I can see no evidence of war other than the loose fit.

Thanks

Bill
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Riders:
1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1987 Yamaha Trailway, 2000 Valkyrie, 2006 Yamaha Roadliner S.

Projects:
1947 Indian Chief, 1980 KZ550, 1985 ZN1300
Michvalk
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Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2013, 08:30:23 AM »

Some have reported that they need to be tapped in place with a hammer, so I would guess so. I have never had to replace mine cooldude
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14795


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2013, 08:56:29 AM »

Hi Folks,

I was just about to reinstall my rear wheel when I noticed that the driven flange has more than 1/16" of rotational slop. This is caused by the rear dampers fitting loosely into the rear hub. My question is: Do new dampers fit more tightly? The manual suggests that I look for deterioration of the dampers including wear of the rubbers. I can see no evidence of war other than the loose fit.

Thanks

Bill

Yes, order new ones (get the ones for the IS) but in the mean time, some have placed rubber in the gaps symetrically to "tighten" the dampeners fit in their pockets.......search, you will find pictures.
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2013, 09:01:28 AM »

There's two kinds of dampers... the original ones, and the ones they started using later.
I don't know all the right years, but if you buy dampers from the fiche for my bike (97)
you get the old style, and if you buy dampers from Interstate fiche, you get newer
dampers. The newer ones are probably preferable, they're one piece and cheaper than
the older ones.

I've used both kinds, the original ones are real tight, and the newer ones aren't so tight.

1/16th of an inch doesn't sound like too much in my imagination  Roll Eyes but it is hard to say.

If you take that plate off and take the dampers out and look at them, ones worn out enough
to warrant replacing will probably look it... I could tell I wanted to replace mine without
even taking the plate off... black rubber dust, and since I'd checked them on other tire
changes, I could gauge that they had become looser than before...

-Mike
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whitestroke
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San Pedro, Ca.


« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2013, 10:51:46 AM »

Shouldn't be any looseness at all. Replace if you have it apart.
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2013, 11:27:40 AM »

Shouldn't be any looseness at all. Replace if you have it apart.

   Yuppers on what he said.  Wink You will not believe the difference new dampers make.  coolsmiley It'll be like a whole nother M/C.  Smiley Get the new ones-install them-test ride-get back to us and let us know what ya think.  cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2013, 01:11:59 PM »

I don't agree that you will be dazzled with new dampers if there are no signs of the existing dampers being damaged.....split, badly eroded, etc.  If they are just a bit loose in fitment, new stock dampers can be virtually the same and you won't see much difference.  The slack in the drive train is determined by a collection of tolerances including the dampers, ring & pinion gear, and gear lash in the transmission.  If I remember right, the typical radial runout measured at the circumference of the rear wheel is about 1.5 inches in 5th gear. Before you do the dampers, measure the drive slack, them replace the dampers and see who much slack has been taken up.....bet its not a 1/4 inch slack out of the 1.5m inch travel.  That's about what mine was ......JMHO and experience.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2013, 02:00:01 PM »

Tru Dat...........

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
vanagon40
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Posts: 1464

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2013, 08:21:16 PM »

. . . I can see no evidence of war . . . .
If you can see no evidence of war, then I would be satisfied that all the parts are living together in peace.

Sorry, could not resist.

Welcome to the forum Quixote.  Most here are not as sarcastic as me.
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Quixote
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Central Oregon


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« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2013, 08:24:08 AM »

. . . I can see no evidence of war . . . .
If you can see no evidence of war, then I would be satisfied that all the parts are living together in peace.

Sorry, could not resist.

Welcome to the forum Quixote.  Most here are not as sarcastic as me.

No Problem Van!

This keyboard has several stiky keys.

I pulled the cover off of the dampers and did find some ground up rubber, not much but enough to confirm that these dampers are worn. If I had the time to pull the rear wheel off again in six months I'd just silicone the worn dampers in place, but I'm loath to experiment, at least on my every day rider. I ordered the parts from hdlparts.com.

I will report back on whether or not the new dampers give a tighter fit.

Bill
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Riders:
1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1987 Yamaha Trailway, 2000 Valkyrie, 2006 Yamaha Roadliner S.

Projects:
1947 Indian Chief, 1980 KZ550, 1985 ZN1300
MarcusS
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New To Me August 2013

North Houston


« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2013, 06:00:11 AM »

I did my rear end serivce last week at 23K and replaced the dampers. I had some play and I think it was attributing to some drive lash cruising at slow speeds. The old ones were loose and the cups had plenty of black rubber dust in them showing that they were being worn down like an erasor.

Froze the new ones then used an old dampener and hammer to seat the new ones. They fell in but needed some motivation to go all the way down. I saw some gaps in front and behide the old ones.

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Life goes on whether you are in it for the ride or not.
Quixote
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Posts: 10

Central Oregon


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« Reply #11 on: February 14, 2013, 01:15:06 PM »

OK, I got the new dampers. The driven flange no longer has any free play. Now to see if the drive line lash is affected.

Bill
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Riders:
1968 BSA Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 1987 Yamaha Trailway, 2000 Valkyrie, 2006 Yamaha Roadliner S.

Projects:
1947 Indian Chief, 1980 KZ550, 1985 ZN1300
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