Propeller shaft differences???

[salty1]

After reading about Squealy's shaft and pinion cup mishap, I was researching out costs of the cup and shaft at HDL.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,53895.0.html
Since I have a 97 and 98 Valks I looked at parts for both bikes to make sure there were no differences. However, I found a big price difference in the shafts for the two years and a different part #(which maybe nothing). The 97 propeller shaft for the 97 (40201-MZO-000) is $100.11, while the 98 shaft (40201-MZO-A00) is $48.01. Am I wrong, but aren't these shafts physically the same? If they are, buyer beware!  

[Chrisj CMA]

Must be atypo.  As far as I know all Valkyries use the same drive shaft.  They are around $100.  That one for $48 must ba a different part loaded in error is all I can think. 

[Daniel Meyer]

They are all the same. $48 is about the right price. You can get that and a pinion cup for under $100 usually.

[salty1]

 I just checked the shaft price at HDL for all years from 98 to 03 and all show this part:
Reverse Part Number Lookup   
Manufacturer:   
Enter a part number:   
QUANTITY   PART   CATEGORY   YOUR PRICE   
SHAFT, PROPELLER (40201-MZ0-A00 ) $48.01

Thanks Dan for your insight. Chris I also thought it might be a typo. I wonder what one would be charged if they ordered the 97 part?

[Brian]

Someone here posted a while back that the torque is different on the 97 verses 98 an on when I asked this same question. If this was not true why would Honda have a different part # for the 97. I have a 97 and therefor bought the 97 shaft for 100 bucks. HDL runs Holiday sales of 5 or 10% off. That's when I bought mine. I do have a tendency to really twist hard at times from a stoplight and don't need to have something shoot out and tear up my right leg.

[salty1]

Brian I sure hope Daniel Myers will respond to your post, if anybody knows he does. I want to know also if there is a difference in torque spec as I own both a 98 and a 97. For right now I'm doubtful as the Service Manual shows 80 ft-lbs for all years, at least from what I've seen. 

[Chrisj CMA]

When I bought my drive shaft.......I ordered off the "97 fishe never even considered that a '98 part would be half the cost.  I paid 90 some dollars a few years ago.  Still am using that drive shaft.  Its beyond reason that there would be two seperate parts one for the '97 and another for all other years.  I am going to try to find out though

[Brian]

It will be interesting to see what you all come back with for those out there looking to start stocking up on parts.

[Patrick]

I've been stocking up on parts for quite some time now. I never plan on getting rid of this monster. I do have an extra u-joint, but, I'm not planing on getting the shaft or cup.

[Ricky-D]

Get the least expensive.

They are all the same.

No difference in torque specifications to allow for a different drive shaft.

***

[Chrisj CMA]

Get the least expensive.

They are all the same.

No difference in torque specifications to allow for a different drive shaft.

***

Wrong....Not all the same

OK, I just got off the phone with mother Honda in California.  The answer for the two part numbers for the 97 and the rest of the models was this.

For some reason the "97 model bikes only had a problem with the shaft of the "propeller" rubbing on something at the front end (U-joint) so they made a shaft with a slightly thinner diameter for the '97.

So between me and the tech, even though they really cannot advise substituting parts if their computer doesnt say its ok.  We sorta concluded that the only bike that could feasably have a problem is the '97.  If you get a drive shaft that isint the narrower one I guess it could rub on something??  Sounds weird because it seems to me that the u-joint is the closest thing to rubbing on anything but there you have it.

I think, bottom line...if you have a 98 and above you should be able to use any drive shaft.  If you have a '97 there is a possibility if you use a later model shaft something could rub (I doubt it) but to repeat the only difference is the diameter of the shaft between the two part numbers

[salty1]

Get the least expensive.

They are all the same.

No difference in torque specifications to allow for a different drive shaft.

***

Wrong....Not all the same

OK, I just got off the phone with mother Honda in California.  The answer for the two part numbers for the 97 and the rest of the models was this.

For some reason the "97 model bikes only had a problem with the shaft of the "propeller" rubbing on something at the front end (U-joint) so they made a shaft with a slightly thinner diameter for the '97.

So between me and the tech, even though they really cannot advise substituting parts if their computer doesnt say its ok.  We sorta concluded that the only bike that could feasably have a problem is the '97.  If you get a drive shaft that isint the narrower one I guess it could rub on something??  Sounds weird because it seems to me that the u-joint is the closest thing to rubbing on anything but there you have it.

I think, bottom line...if you have a 98 and above you should be able to use any drive shaft.  If you have a '97 there is a possibility if you use a later model shaft something could rub (I doubt it) but to repeat the only difference is the diameter of the shaft between the two part numbers

Thanks Chris for talking with Honda! I'm also having a lot of difficulty trying imagine where that thicker shaft would rub. It would be nice if someone could post the diameter of both shafts.

[Brian]

Get the least expensive.

They are all the same.

No difference in torque specifications to allow for a different drive shaft.

***

Wrong....Not all the same

OK, I just got off the phone with mother Honda in California.  The answer for the two part numbers for the 97 and the rest of the models was this.

For some reason the "97 model bikes only had a problem with the shaft of the "propeller" rubbing on something at the front end (U-joint) so they made a shaft with a slightly thinner diameter for the '97.

So between me and the tech, even though they really cannot advise substituting parts if their computer doesnt say its ok.  We sorta concluded that the only bike that could feasably have a problem is the '97.  If you get a drive shaft that isint the narrower one I guess it could rub on something??  Sounds weird because it seems to me that the u-joint is the closest thing to rubbing on anything but there you have it.

I think, bottom line...if you have a 98 and above you should be able to use any drive shaft.  If you have a '97 there is a possibility if you use a later model shaft something could rub (I doubt it) but to repeat the only difference is the diameter of the shaft between the two part numbers

Thanks Chris for talking with Honda! I'm also having a lot of difficulty trying imagine where that thicker shaft would rub. It would be nice if someone could post the diameter of both shafts.

Thanks Chris. I measured my new 97 still in the factory packaging. It measures approximately .775 right where the shaft straightens after the taper from the spring stop. I hope this helps if someone has another year shaft to measure. By the way, my measurement includes the plastic as I did not want to break the seal as the shaft is still like the day it was packaged.

[salty1]

Thanks Chris. I measured my new 97 still in the factory packaging. It measures approximately .775 right where the shaft straightens after the taper from the spring stop. I hope this helps if someone has another year shaft to measure. By the way, my measurement includes the plastic as I did not want to break the seal as the shaft is still like the day it was packaged.

Thanks to you too, Brian. Maybe somebody can make the same measurement on a 98 to 03 propellor shaft and the real story will be known.

[Brian]

Hey guys, this measurement came from the u-joint end as this was the area mentioned by Chris.