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Author Topic: How do you retrofit that ugly front shift peg?  (Read 2356 times)
Kunkies
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Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« on: April 12, 2013, 04:29:17 AM »

I've been researching how one might replace the front shift peg on the Honda Valkyrie GL1500CT.  I have my eye on a Kurk' #KY-8004 shift peg.  I installed a Rattlebars kick shift about 2 years ago and retrofitted the KY-8021 replacing the Rattlebars rear shift peg.  Apparently, the front shift peg mount is welded to the assembly!

Looking for advice, and thank you in advance.
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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2013, 05:16:02 AM »

You need to cut off the peg, file flat, then drill and tap the shifter arm...I also added a nut on the backside and red locktite to keep it in place.



Notice the "Genuine H-D" part and the packaging showing "Made in Taiwan"... Grin

« Last Edit: April 12, 2013, 05:17:52 AM by 9Ball » Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2013, 06:26:33 AM »

BigBF has an excellent photo essay about just this topic:

http://bigbf.com/bigbf_shop/shift_peg/



He shows how to adapt it for a Kickshifter here:

http://bigbf.com/bigbf_shop/shift_peg/kickshifter/
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mmurffy03
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Posts: 791


03 standard

toms river new jersey


« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2013, 09:33:31 AM »



this is the kuryakyn I installed and a 2nd one to install on the kickshifter I just bought the other day they also match the tips on my grips they run $26.00 they call them stiletto  shift pegs bigbf also has a how to cut the old one off and modify the new one on his page
« Last Edit: April 23, 2013, 05:16:44 PM by mmurffy03 » Logged
vanagon40
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Posts: 1464

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2013, 10:27:20 AM »

Yep, as outlined in the BigBF instructions, saw it, grind it, drill it, and tap it.

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matt
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Posts: 577

Derry New Hampshire


« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2013, 11:06:01 AM »

I like this, think I will being do a mod to my rattlebar,  never even crossed my mind thinks for the links
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SpidyJ
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Posts: 794

Murrells Inlet


« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2013, 12:22:34 PM »

I put on a used shifter arm/peg from a Honda CBR1100XX (Blackbird) cost me $30.00.

I had to wiggle and persuade it a little to go on but it works well with my riding boots.

What was Honda thinkin' with that stock shifter?!
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1999 Fast Black Interstate

Peace,
johnnywebb
BobB
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One dragon on the tail of another.


« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2013, 02:40:42 PM »

Warning  Do not try to use Kury #8851 on your shifter.  It is just a cover.  I tried it years ago and could not get it to tighten up properly.  The Kury part number shown in the picture just above is 8004.
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Kunkies
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Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2013, 04:11:15 PM »

OK, got it.

This site never ceases to amaze me.  The content, breadth of references, and more importantly the people behind it are amazing.  Try to find THAT on a HD site; no way. 2funny

To my fellow Valkyrie Addicts, thank you x 1,000,000!!

Will update all on my progress.  Status:  KY-8004 ordered, tap, lock nut and lock-tight in stock.  Now to find the proper extended length bolt to complete my parts list.

p.s.  sure wish I had a bench grinder.
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Westsider
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Posts: 716


Fort Worth TX.


« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2013, 06:41:46 PM »

 cooldude  Nice rainy day project    cooldude
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we'll be there when we get there -   Valkless,, on lookout....
Brian
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Posts: 996


Monroe, NC


« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2013, 05:36:32 AM »

You need to cut off the peg, file flat, then drill and tap the shifter arm...I also added a nut on the backside and red locktite to keep it in place.



Notice the "Genuine H-D" part and the packaging showing "Made in Taiwan"... Grin




I bet this shifter was $100 just because it carries the H-D logo even though it cam from across the big pond.
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KSDragonRider
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Posts: 777


The beatings will continue until morale improves

Salina, KS


« Reply #11 on: April 14, 2013, 05:55:12 AM »

You need to cut off the peg, file flat, then drill and tap the shifter arm...I also added a nut on the backside and red locktite to keep it in place.



Notice the "Genuine H-D" part and the packaging showing "Made in Taiwan"... Grin




I bet this shifter was $100 just because it carries the H-D logo even though it cam from across the big pond.


I think the one i bought at HD was under 15 bucks and looked just like that one. You are not buying the whole shifter, just the toe hold.  He just has the assembly sitting on the toe hold card.

I would not pay more than 20 bucks for one at HD.
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Dalen & Shay -> Salina, KS
VRCC Member #33950
1999 Red & Black Valkyrie Interstate
vanagon40
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Posts: 1464

Greenwood, IN


« Reply #12 on: April 14, 2013, 07:38:49 AM »

OK, got it.

. . . .  Now to find the proper extended length bolt to complete my parts list. . . .


I do not believe an extended length bolt is necessary.  I'm almost positive I used the bolt that came with the 8004.  It was not a metric.
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mmurffy03
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Posts: 791


03 standard

toms river new jersey


« Reply #13 on: April 14, 2013, 08:43:57 AM »

Loctite works fine but a nylock nut is the best choice
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9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #14 on: April 14, 2013, 08:56:31 AM »

You need to cut off the peg, file flat, then drill and tap the shifter arm...I also added a nut on the backside and red locktite to keep it in place.



Notice the "Genuine H-D" part and the packaging showing "Made in Taiwan"... Grin





I bet this shifter was $100 just because it carries the H-D logo even though it cam from across the big pond.


No, the peg was only about $15....the shifter arm is Honda OEM, just the chrome peg is "genuine" H-D....Made in Taiwan!!!
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2013, 11:13:57 AM »

OK, got it.

This site never ceases to amaze me.  The content, breadth of references, and more importantly the people behind it are amazing.  Try to find THAT on a HD site; no way. 2funny

To my fellow Valkyrie Addicts, thank you x 1,000,000!!

Will update all on my progress.  Status:  KY-8004 ordered, tap, lock nut and lock-tight in stock.  Now to find the proper extended length bolt to complete my parts list.

p.s.  sure wish I had a bench grinder.
   This site NEVER ceases to amaze me. If you didn't see it when posted look up Squealys pinion cup failure and how folks stepped up.  cooldude  I DO NOT ask my dealer questions anymore on my Phatt Ghurl-i ask here.  Wink My dealer don't luv our Ladies like we do.  coolsmiley As far as a bench grinder-look at what Harbor Freight has to offer. Got one on my bench and it does fine for what I need it for. I'm not making a living turning wrenches anymore so I get what I need at a price I can afford. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
Kunkies
Member
*****
Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2013, 04:19:39 PM »

"I do not believe an extended length bolt is necessary.  I'm almost positive I used the bolt that came with the 8004.  It was not a metric."

I think I will require an extended bolt, yet only because I have a Rattlebars Kick-shifter.  Anyone know the size bolt I require and where to get such a specialty hex bolt?
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BobB
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Posts: 1568


One dragon on the tail of another.


« Reply #17 on: April 19, 2013, 01:32:21 PM »

When this thread originated I decided to install the KU-8004 myself.  Ordered it through Amazon for $14.10 with free shipping.  The peg arrived today and in about one hour it is installed. 

I used the 5/16-24 bolt that came with the peg, it is more than long enough.  My angle grinder and pedestal grinder made short work of removing the old peg and flattening the surfaces.  I did not have a 5/16-24 tap nor the drill bit needed, so I decided to take another route.  There is more than one way to skin a cat.  I decided to use a 5/16-24 chrome acorn nut on the back side that I found in my stock pile, and drill a 5/16 hole in the shift lever.  Test fitting showed that some grinding and filing of the front weld bead holding the exhaust guard was required.  That done, we were ready for assembly.  I saw no reason why this should ever be disassembled, so I tightened everything up with J-B Weld on the threads.  Put a chrome cap screw cover in place, again with J-B Weld and installed the lever back on the Valk. 

What a difference!   cooldude



         
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mmurffy03
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Posts: 791


03 standard

toms river new jersey


« Reply #18 on: April 19, 2013, 05:43:35 PM »

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