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Author Topic: Potential fuel problem  (Read 811 times)
BIG--T
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Posts: 3002


1998 Standard, 2000 Interstate

The Twilight Zone


« on: May 14, 2013, 07:59:19 AM »

I just bought a 99 I/S and thought I checked everything out before I bought it except for a real biggie. uglystupid2 It only had 8k on her and the  guy just put less than 100 miles since August and bought a trike. Long story short when I got home and put gas in it, as soon as I opened the cap I seen rust around the outside and can't tell how bad it is inside the tank. I was going to put sea foam or techron  in it for good measure since it sat so long. But If I did put an additive in, could it make it worse by possibly cleaning/stirring up the rust right into my carbs?  Shocked If I should start having problems, does that plastic coating stuff for inside the tank really work permanently? I've only heard of it and never tried it.

« Last Edit: May 14, 2013, 08:28:23 AM by BIG--T » Logged
Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2013, 09:05:15 AM »

Some maybe disagree, but, I'd recommend removing the tank and just clean it by 'swishing' around gasoline in it and dumping it. It might take a couple times. I'm a believer in an in-line filter [ just a plain jane filter works fine]. Be careful not to kink the vent line when reinstalling the tank. Add a heavy dose of cleaner to new fuel and see how it runs. If it runs good fine. If it runs good above 3K and stumbles below that, then, run it at about 2500 until it starts to run better then force to run at slower engines speeds to force the cleaner thru the low circuits. See how it runs after 2 or 3 tanks. If it still runs poorly, then roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty cleaning the carburetors. But, the cleaner usually works when done right unless the low jets are really really plugged.
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Oklahoma_Valk
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Posts: 375


Central OK


« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2013, 04:48:18 PM »

before you start and run the bike, remove the fuel tank and do a proper restoration/cleaning.

Dawn dish soap and hot water will do a lot to get some rust out. Depending on the severity, you could have to use a tank liner kit. KREEM makes a good one that I've had good experience with.

If you run the bike with the rust, you will end up having bad carburetor problems.

Check out this great youtube series. It outlines exactly what you're looking at doing.

Pt.1 1998 Honda GL1500C Valkyrie Project - Introductionpowered by Aeva



-ride safe
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Let those who ride decide.
Daniel Meyer
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Author. Adventurer. Electrician.

The State of confusion.


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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2013, 05:04:03 PM »

I remove the tank, take it to the car wash, and blast it out with the high pressure hose. Then, if it's NOT pinholed, don't coat.

After washing out with the high pressure, if it's just surface rust left, I fill it with white vinegar and let soak overnight, up to a couple days. This dissolves the rust and won't hurt the steel or paint.

Empty, rinse with water/baking soda solution, rinse VERY good with water, then immediately rinse with kerosene or light oil.

Remount, fill with gas, and go.

If it's rusted so bad it's pinholed it needs coated, but special care has to be taken with the vent hose/screen. That's an entire different story.
 

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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2013, 07:14:52 PM »

If the rust is pretty bad, I've used a short chain that I drop in the tank and then shake it around good.     Pressure wash it out, take a look see.  Still a bunch of rust repeat the chain, shake it and pressure wash it again.   If it looks pretty rust free, then go with Daniel's suggestion.
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ricoman
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Posts: 1888


Sarasota, FL


« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2013, 04:17:48 AM »

I second what Patrick said.
I doubt there is much (if any) actual rust in the tank, mostly where you saw it.
Unless you know for a fact that there is rust inside, I would not get into the drastic cleaning process.
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take personal responsibility and keep your word



98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10
98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
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