Clutch fluid replacement problem

[F6Mark]

Well, I have a 2000 Tourer, a bit less than 30K mileage, never have had to add any brake fluid, so I thought I'd buy some speed bleeders and get things right.  I had already purchased new pads- the local Honda shop ordered EBC- I didn't ask for any particular type so that's what I got.
After reading a few horror stories about peoples splines and driveshafts and u-joints, I figured I'd just go ahead and change the pads, and remove the rear wheel and have a look around.  Everything looked great in the rear.  I had never completely removed the rear unit from the swingarm, and then I had to search the tech board (thx very much) to see how to remove the shaft from the pinion cup- Yank on it!  Anyway no problems there.  The rear brake pads went on easily- except the EBC pads sure look different from the stock pads- I hope I wasn't supposed to remove and reinstall the metal attachments that surround the stock pads.  I installed the speed bleeder on the rear caliper, that worked great also.  BUT- the clutch is another story.  I had the bike on a lift.  I located the bleed valve.  I put a wrench on it and turned it and it easily opened up and some fluid came out, so I snugged it back down but not tight enough evidently. I got the handlebar master cylinder level and opened up the top of it.  Then I got distracted and had to go eat dinner.  When I came back, all of the fluid had drained from the master cyliner out the bleeder and onto the floor of the shed.
And no new fluid is being taken into the system, I presume this calls for Mighty Vac?  Any guidance would be appreciated very much! 
Thanks a lot guys!
Mark in College Park, MD

[Black Dog]

I don't know what the part # is, but there is a Speed Bleeder, that fits the clutch fluid bleeder.  Works just like the ones for the brakes.  I would think that you can get one for the clutch, and just bleed it, until there is no more air/bubbles coming out.

I've got Speed Bleeders on my Valk, clutch included, and they work great.

Black Dog

[Valker]

SpeedBleeders will NOT work with an empty/new line. You must use the MityVac to fill it then the speedbleeders are great.

[hubcapsc]

I have speedbleeders and no mightyvac... I made do with priming the various lines with a big syringe...

The clutch speedbleeder is different than the brake ones... there's a good speedbleeder article in
shoptalk that should help to get the right one...

-Mike

[F6Mark]

Thanks for the input guys, I will go track down a mighty vac- I've tried pumping in new fluid, but it's not going anywhere.
I do have the speed bleeder installed on the clutch, so that'll be ready for next time.

Later!

[Warlock]

Thanks for the input guys, I will go track down a mighty vac- I've tried pumping in new fluid, but it's not going anywhere.
I do have the speed bleeder installed on the clutch, so that'll be ready for next time.

Later!

Once you get the fluid in and it seems your clutch isn't working pull your clutch lever in and tie it there and let it sit overnight. This will allow any air to travel thru your line and into the resv. Then it should work fine.
David

[daytona]

Fill the reservoir, open the bleeder @ the slave, let gravity do the same as it did when it emptied! Pulling the lever in wont let anymore fluid go in the line will it? the return port in the reservoir will be blocked. leave it site the air will find its way to the highest point. It will bleed all the air out in time.

[F6Mark]

Gentlemen, I appreciate your advice.  It's as if you could see what I was doing, because after I found a manual pump at Harbor Freight ($19.95) I sucked in and out a bunch of fluid, but then it made no difference!  It's like a .5 finger pull.  Theres hardly any resistance.  I'd be concerned that something was broken but everything worked when I drove it into the shed, it's just that all the fluid drained out.
I was typing out a call for help but checked the board first and saw your posts, so now I have the fluid topped up and the res sealed up, and the bleed valve open (with a hose to a jar), and it'll be better in the morning I am hoping. 
That will be an amazing feeling, to go from completely spongy/inoperative clutch, to the usual feeling of pulling the clutch in, just by opening the bleeder and letting it sit all nite.  Hmmm- I am keeping my fingers crossed!!
I'll update in the am! 

[Warlock]

Gentlemen, I appreciate your advice.  It's as if you could see what I was doing, because after I found a manual pump at Harbor Freight ($19.95) I sucked in and out a bunch of fluid, but then it made no difference!  It's like a .5 finger pull.  Theres hardly any resistance.  I'd be concerned that something was broken but everything worked when I drove it into the shed, it's just that all the fluid drained out.
I was typing out a call for help but checked the board first and saw your posts, so now I have the fluid topped up and the res sealed up, and the bleed valve open (with a hose to a jar), and it'll be better in the morning I am hoping. 
That will be an amazing feeling, to go from completely spongy/inoperative clutch, to the usual feeling of pulling the clutch in, just by opening the bleeder and letting it sit all nite.  Hmmm- I am keeping my fingers crossed!!
I'll update in the am! 

Reread my post.Once you get everything filled and it still acts like it's not working, pull your clutch lever in and tie it there and leave it over night. You still have some air in there and this will let the air bubbles travel up the line and into the resv. Close off the bleeder also.
David

[F6Mark]

This morning I eagerly ran out to the shed to check the clutch- I had filled the rez and sealed that up, and left the bleeder open all night with a hose to a bottle.
There was no difference in the clutch pull when I tried it.  The fluid level had gone down just a bit I think.
I was a little bit concerned but I had faith in the knowledge of those who have helped me so far.
So I opened the rez, topped it off, and while it was open, I tried squeezing the lever a few times, and I noticed that I was getting some good bubbles coming up.  After at least 15-20 bubbles came up, the clutch feels like it always did.
Problem solved- except I am worried that the clutch speed bleeder doesn't seem to be all that snug.  Although I can't open it by hand, it doesn't seem to be all that tight.  I saw somewhere that maybe teflon tape is called for.  I'll keep an eye on that.

This is an amazing site!
Thanks for all the help everybody!!!!

[hubcapsc]

Problem solved- except I am worried that the clutch speed bleeder doesn't seem to be all that snug.  Although I can't open it by hand, it doesn't seem to be all that tight.  I saw somewhere that maybe teflon tape is called for.  I'll keep an eye on that.

You used a different sized speed bleeder for the Clutch? If you used the same on the Clutch
as you did on the calipers, you wouldn't be able to screw it in tight enough without it
practically disappearing down inside its recess...

If you used the right speed bleeder, and it's not leaking, it seems like you got it tight enough...

-Mike