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Author Topic: throttle return spring???  (Read 1197 times)
playmecd
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Posts: 7


« on: June 03, 2013, 06:12:26 PM »

Just installed new floats and neddle valves, reassembling, but don't seem to have throttle return- is there a spring or an adjustment I missed? Is it in the cables somehow? Didn't unhook anything I know of,can't see anywhere it is rubbing on any of the hoses.....
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2013, 07:06:23 PM »

Did you start it?  The vacuum from running should return the grip.  Have you lubed the cables?
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2013, 07:14:33 PM »

If you replaced those parts, you had to have the carburetor assembly removed from the bike. To remove it, you had to remove the throttle cables from the throttle drum. The return springs are on the carb assy. Does the throttle drum have return??
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Denny47
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#34898

Grove, Ok.


« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2013, 07:40:52 AM »

If you replaced those parts, you had to have the carburetor assembly removed from the bike. To remove it, you had to remove the throttle cables from the throttle drum. The return springs are on the carb assy. Does the throttle drum have return??

In shoptalk, LaMonster tells how to replace needles and jets w/o removing the carb bank.
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1997 Green/Cream Tourer w/ Cobra 6/6 exhaust,  2012 Pearl White Goldwing
USAF 66-70, F-105 AWCS
3W-lonerider
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Shippensburg Pa


« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2013, 01:11:03 PM »

i would also check your airbox installation. i put mine back in one time and installed it incorrectly on the right front corner. and the airtube going to the carbs had the throttle cables in a bind.
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ricoman
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Sarasota, FL


« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2013, 03:06:50 PM »



In shoptalk, LaMonster tells how to replace needles and jets w/o removing the carb bank.
[/quote]


great info, too bad he already did it
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take personal responsibility and keep your word



98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10
98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
Denny47
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Posts: 307

#34898

Grove, Ok.


« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2013, 04:20:42 PM »



In shoptalk, LaMonster tells how to replace needles and jets w/o removing the carb bank.


great info, too bad he already did it
[/quote]


Too bad that you did not grasp the intent of my post. I was letting pancho know that the carb bank does not have to be removed to replace the needles and jets.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2013, 05:02:32 PM by Denny47 » Logged

1997 Green/Cream Tourer w/ Cobra 6/6 exhaust,  2012 Pearl White Goldwing
USAF 66-70, F-105 AWCS
ricoman
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Posts: 1888


Sarasota, FL


« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2013, 05:04:36 PM »



In shoptalk, LaMonster tells how to replace needles and jets w/o removing the carb bank.


great info, too bad he already did it


Too bad that you did not grasp what my post was for. I was letting pancho know that the carb bank does not have to be removed to replace the needles and jets.
[/quote]




so sorry, I must have missed his question.
I thought he was commenting on the problem-like everybody else was
Thank you so much for clearing this up which allowed me to "grasp" what your post was for
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take personal responsibility and keep your word



98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10
98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10
pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2013, 06:40:11 PM »

If you replaced those parts, you had to have the carburetor assembly removed from the bike. To remove it, you had to remove the throttle cables from the throttle drum. The return springs are on the carb assy. Does the throttle drum have return??

In shoptalk, LaMonster tells how to replace needles and jets w/o removing the carb bank.

I guess I ought to take a look at that ricoman,, but why would you do that?? It seems as if it would be MUCH harder to change the jets with the assembly on the bike. I for one want my work in front of me where I can see what I have going on, plus I want to inspect and clean everything while I am in there.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2013, 05:58:30 AM »

Most likely need to readjust your throttle cables.  If you want to make sure where the problem is originating just remove the cables and see if the throttle snaps back to all the way to idle position with them removed.  Sometimes it is a little tedious to get them right if you don't make mental notes on how many turns above the mounting etc.  I have had to do the same in the past.
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2013, 06:37:35 AM »

Also, installing aftermarket grips, some do not get all the glue off the top of the throttle side.
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Denny47
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#34898

Grove, Ok.


« Reply #11 on: June 05, 2013, 08:45:14 AM »

Looks like he got the problem fixed. He just started a new thread, BIG THANKS TO ALL, and said that it's fixed. Would have been good to have continued this thread and told us what was wrong.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2013, 07:41:45 PM by Denny47 » Logged

1997 Green/Cream Tourer w/ Cobra 6/6 exhaust,  2012 Pearl White Goldwing
USAF 66-70, F-105 AWCS
playmecd
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« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2013, 01:54:54 PM »

Sorry, guys, please understand, I am a computer moron, not sure how to continue a post, thats why I started a new one everytime....Just got this done late last night, and this mornin gs thank you post was done as I was running out the door to go to work. Solutions were as follows, first the hydrolock, still there after rebuilding petcock, so went in and pulled carbs and rather than do just the problem cylinder, I replaced all the floats, needle valves and bowl gaskets, just so I didn't have to do this again, replaced the petcock with a Pingle, for the same reason. Throtle spring was because I had the cables too tight. Once again, thanks for all the info.
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