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Author Topic: Bike won't start  (Read 2026 times)
brew1brew
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Plano, TX


« on: June 19, 2013, 04:45:48 PM »

So,  I stopped to pickup some  beer on the way home. Came out and the bike would not start. So,  it has power,  running lights, blinkers,  break lights, and horn all work. No headlight and no response when the starter button is pushed. All fuses are good. 

Maxum Honda service guy says it's probably the starter button.  What do the experts here think?
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Les
2014 Valkyrie GL1800 C Blue
Joe Hummer
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Arnold, MO


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« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2013, 04:50:10 PM »

I would agree.  There is a post in the shoptalk about cleaning it... http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

Joe
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
You pay for the whole bike, why not use it Jerry Motorman Palladino
Westsider
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Posts: 716


Fort Worth TX.


« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2013, 06:45:42 PM »

So waas it a push start? Try wiggling the shifter to, sometimes that neutral switch isn't lined up ..  Roll Eyes
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Super Santa
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Houston, Texas


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« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2013, 06:51:01 PM »

First guess is starter switch.  Easily fixed just make sure that little spring does not go flying off into the grass somewhere.  Clean the contacts.  Add a little dielectric grease and put back together.

To get home.  Have someone push you a bit (use 2nd or 3rd gear) then pop the clutch.

Or, use a phillips screw driver to take the two pieces of housing apart.  Let the switch hang out, put housing back together for the short ride home.  Then use a flat blade screw driver to make the connection across the two wires.  Should start right up.
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Six Guns
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Fort Worth, Texas


« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2013, 07:36:46 PM »

I agree it's the starter switch.    cooldude
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99 Valkyrie Interstate VRCC Member # 17,369

Red Diamond
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Beaumont, Texas


« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2013, 07:50:27 PM »

Yep, been there, done that, same symptoms, same fix.
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If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
brew1brew
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Plano, TX


« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2013, 07:09:19 AM »

Thanks guys, I hitched a ride on the back of a flatbed toe truck, road side assistance. I pay for it, I might as well use it  Cool

I'll be taking the switch apart tonight after work.
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Les
2014 Valkyrie GL1800 C Blue
franco6
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Houston, TX


« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2013, 08:24:28 AM »

Also check the ignition shut off switch on the left side. same symptoms.same cleaning cooldude
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Enjoy the ride!
BuzzKill
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Lake Dallas, Tx


« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2013, 06:21:30 PM »

Also, when you start questioning yourself as to why you cant find said ignition cut off switch on the left, look on the right.
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brew1brew
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Posts: 525


Plano, TX


« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2013, 06:22:38 PM »

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.
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Les
2014 Valkyrie GL1800 C Blue
brew1brew
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Plano, TX


« Reply #10 on: June 20, 2013, 07:54:37 PM »

If by "ignition cut off" you mean the kill switch in.  :-D  then I would say that the symptoms would be different.  The headlight would be on and the rest would be the same.
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Les
2014 Valkyrie GL1800 C Blue
franco6
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Houston, TX


« Reply #11 on: June 20, 2013, 10:12:41 PM »

meant the right killswtch.  Wink
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Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #12 on: June 21, 2013, 02:06:53 PM »

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

I'm guessing you don't have the headlight run through a relay, and if you recently added lights on the circuit, it may have contributed to the failure.

Easy fix.  We can do it in less than an hour.
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Daniel Meyer
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« Reply #13 on: June 21, 2013, 02:27:42 PM »

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

Been 150,000 miles since I did mine. I don't think they were well greased to begin with and corrode quickly then heat up...

Make sure you didn't add any additional load to the headlight circuit (except via relay). The switch won't hold up to that.
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CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
brew1brew
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Posts: 525


Plano, TX


« Reply #14 on: June 22, 2013, 05:22:41 PM »

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

I'm guessing you don't have the headlight run through a relay, and if you recently added lights on the circuit, it may have contributed to the failure.

Easy fix.  We can do it in less than an hour.

I didn't add anything to the headlight circuit, I added my new driving lights and fuel switch to the 5 amp aux circuit. together they don't equal 2 amps.

So this was just a failure due to corrosion, but like I said it melted the little contact bar and it's spring into the plastic that it's mounted on. I was able to repair it but not like new. I did grease it up  good when I put it back together, so I probably will out last me.
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Les
2014 Valkyrie GL1800 C Blue
godfire
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Posts: 1321


Republic of Texas

Living the dream in Sharonville, OH - with Sharon!


« Reply #15 on: June 22, 2013, 06:07:52 PM »

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

I'm guessing you don't have the headlight run through a relay, and if you recently added lights on the circuit, it may have contributed to the failure.

Easy fix.  We can do it in less than an hour.

I didn't add anything to the headlight circuit, I added my new driving lights and fuel switch to the 5 amp aux circuit. together they don't equal 2 amps.

So this was just a failure due to corrosion, but like I said it melted the little contact bar and it's spring into the plastic that it's mounted on. I was able to repair it but not like new. I did grease it up  good when I put it back together, so I probably will out last me.
Even without adding anything this circuit is not the most conducive to a future favorable out come. The mod that Valk Pilot suggested bypasses a lot of current from that little switch. Go to a wrench party and Get 'er Done. You will be much happier in the future, and there will be no more failure due to corrosion....  cooldude
 
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Ride Safe
Ride Often
BnB Tom
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Where'd old times go?

Frisco, TX


« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2013, 04:44:25 AM »

Godfire:  Go to a wrench party and Get 'er Done. You will be much happier in the future, and there will be no more failure due to corrosion....  cooldude


     Can we count on you being there?!  Wink

When ya coming down to visit?

   Miss ya dude  Cry

Need somebody to support me at the next cussing wrench party  tickedoff  - -   2funny

« Last Edit: June 23, 2013, 04:46:18 AM by BnB Tom » Logged
Valkpilot
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What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #17 on: June 27, 2013, 12:57:05 PM »

Hey Les,

Headlight/driving light relay schematics posted here: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,56705.msg546076.html#msg546076
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WilliamRS
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« Reply #18 on: June 28, 2013, 08:50:03 AM »

I would agree.  There is a post in the shoptalk about cleaning it... http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

Joe


is anybody else having problems with the starter switch repair pictures not being available?
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Six Guns
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Fort Worth, Texas


« Reply #19 on: June 28, 2013, 09:00:49 AM »

Won't open for me either.    coolsmiley
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99 Valkyrie Interstate VRCC Member # 17,369

BnB Tom
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Where'd old times go?

Frisco, TX


« Reply #20 on: June 29, 2013, 02:47:28 PM »

Won't open for me either.    coolsmiley


 Use Valkpilot's and avoid the problems  Wink

                   http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,56705.msg546076.html#msg546076



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godfire
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Republic of Texas

Living the dream in Sharonville, OH - with Sharon!


« Reply #21 on: July 01, 2013, 05:36:03 PM »

Godfire:  Go to a wrench party and Get 'er Done. You will be much happier in the future, and there will be no more failure due to corrosion....  cooldude


     Can we count on you being there?!  Wink

When ya coming down to visit?

   Miss ya dude  Cry

Need somebody to support me at the next cussing wrench party  tickedoff  - -   2funny



Hope to make if down this fall.   cooldude
And you know that I got your back!   tickedoff  uglystupid2  coolsmiley  Grin
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Ride Safe
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