Bike won't start

[brew1brew]

So,  I stopped to pickup some  beer on the way home. Came out and the bike would not start. So,  it has power,  running lights, blinkers,  break lights, and horn all work. No headlight and no response when the starter button is pushed. All fuses are good. 

Maxum Honda service guy says it's probably the starter button.  What do the experts here think?

[Joe Hummer]

I would agree.  There is a post in the shoptalk about cleaning it... http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

Joe

[Westsider]

So waas it a push start? Try wiggling the shifter to, sometimes that neutral switch isn't lined up .. 

[Super Santa]

First guess is starter switch.  Easily fixed just make sure that little spring does not go flying off into the grass somewhere.  Clean the contacts.  Add a little dielectric grease and put back together.

To get home.  Have someone push you a bit (use 2nd or 3rd gear) then pop the clutch.

Or, use a phillips screw driver to take the two pieces of housing apart.  Let the switch hang out, put housing back together for the short ride home.  Then use a flat blade screw driver to make the connection across the two wires.  Should start right up.

[Six Guns]

I agree it's the starter switch.   

[Red Diamond]

Yep, been there, done that, same symptoms, same fix.

[brew1brew]

Thanks guys, I hitched a ride on the back of a flatbed toe truck, road side assistance. I pay for it, I might as well use it 

I'll be taking the switch apart tonight after work.

[franco6]

Also check the ignition shut off switch on the left side. same symptoms.same cleaning

[BuzzKill]

Also, when you start questioning yourself as to why you cant find said ignition cut off switch on the left, look on the right.

[brew1brew]

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

[brew1brew]

If by "ignition cut off" you mean the kill switch in.  :-D  then I would say that the symptoms would be different.  The headlight would be on and the rest would be the same.

[franco6]

meant the right killswtch. 

[Valkpilot]

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

I'm guessing you don't have the headlight run through a relay, and if you recently added lights on the circuit, it may have contributed to the failure.

Easy fix.  We can do it in less than an hour.

[Daniel Meyer]

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

Been 150,000 miles since I did mine. I don't think they were well greased to begin with and corrode quickly then heat up...

Make sure you didn't add any additional load to the headlight circuit (except via relay). The switch won't hold up to that.

[brew1brew]

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

I'm guessing you don't have the headlight run through a relay, and if you recently added lights on the circuit, it may have contributed to the failure.

Easy fix.  We can do it in less than an hour.

I didn't add anything to the headlight circuit, I added my new driving lights and fuel switch to the 5 amp aux circuit. together they don't equal 2 amps.

So this was just a failure due to corrosion, but like I said it melted the little contact bar and it's spring into the plastic that it's mounted on. I was able to repair it but not like new. I did grease it up  good when I put it back together, so I probably will out last me.

[godfire]

So, to sound like our wives, "Wow! you were right" it was the starter switch. Evidently the dielectric grease melted in the Texas heat, then the contacts corroded, this caused some resistance and made the little contact bar heat up and melt into the plastic housing that holds it, it also melted the little spring into the plastic.

So I had to do some cutting of plastic and metal contact bar and stretching of spring. it's not like new but it's functional. I added more dielectric grease and it now works. I don't know how long it will last though.

Also at the monthly meeting several people commented that my head light was a little off, color or brightness. This would be why.

So I don't like (trust) the rebuilt switch for long term use. If anyone has a starter switch that I could buy or knows where I can buy a switch without buying the entire switch cable bundle for $70 I would appreciate it.

I'm guessing you don't have the headlight run through a relay, and if you recently added lights on the circuit, it may have contributed to the failure.

Easy fix.  We can do it in less than an hour.

I didn't add anything to the headlight circuit, I added my new driving lights and fuel switch to the 5 amp aux circuit. together they don't equal 2 amps.

So this was just a failure due to corrosion, but like I said it melted the little contact bar and it's spring into the plastic that it's mounted on. I was able to repair it but not like new. I did grease it up  good when I put it back together, so I probably will out last me.

Even without adding anything this circuit is not the most conducive to a future favorable out come. The mod that Valk Pilot suggested bypasses a lot of current from that little switch. Go to a wrench party and Get 'er Done. You will be much happier in the future, and there will be no more failure due to corrosion.... 
 

[BnB Tom]

Godfire:  Go to a wrench party and Get 'er Done. You will be much happier in the future, and there will be no more failure due to corrosion.... 


     Can we count on you being there?!  

When ya coming down to visit?

   Miss ya dude  

Need somebody to support me at the next cussing wrench party    - -  

[Valkpilot]

Hey Les,

Headlight/driving light relay schematics posted here: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,56705.msg546076.html#msg546076

[WilliamRS]

I would agree.  There is a post in the shoptalk about cleaning it... http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

Joe

is anybody else having problems with the starter switch repair pictures not being available?

[Six Guns]

Won't open for me either.   

[BnB Tom]

Won't open for me either.   

 Use Valkpilot's and avoid the problems 

                   http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,56705.msg546076.html#msg546076

[godfire]

Godfire:  Go to a wrench party and Get 'er Done. You will be much happier in the future, and there will be no more failure due to corrosion.... 


     Can we count on you being there?!  

When ya coming down to visit?

   Miss ya dude  

Need somebody to support me at the next cussing wrench party    - -  

Hope to make if down this fall.   
And you know that I got your back!