I am a little confused as to what extra load you added to the red wire circuit. That red wire provides a fused (30) amp source to the ignition switch for distribution to control all the relays, and low current devices that don't need a relay. Electrically, the red wire is already connected to the 55 amp main fuse that comes from the alternator, but with one big caveat. The big red wire circuit to the ignition switch is protected by the 30 amp fuse that is housed on the start relay. That 30 amp fuse has nothing at all to do with the starter motor (other than providing the start switch with voltage to energize the coil on the start relay through the ignition switch), it only provides for a convenient place for a fused connection to the ignition switch functions.
So, if you connected the red wire to the 55 amp fuse circuit, you MUST protect the red wire with a 30 amp fuse like the one housed on the start relay. Just use a in line 30 fuse and you are fine......
You can connect your add on lights directly to the battery positive if you like but you should use an in line fuse of appropriate size to protect the wiring to the lights AND you must use a on/off switch that is rated at sufficient capacity. Ex. If the two lights are 35 watts each, that that is about 3 amps per light or 6 amps total. A inline fuse of 10 amps would probably be sufficient and use a switch rated at 15 amps. Or use a relay and connect the lights to the battery through the relay contacts (still need a fuse in that line) and if using a separate switch (as you seem to have already) can back off to a 5 amp switch to control the relay coil. If you use the relay method, you can probably tap into the circuit that controls the headlights and not increase that circuits current load by more than a quarter amp, (just for the relay coil) and not cause undue stress on the red wire circuit.
I think I would utilize the 30 amp fuse on the start relay, put the red wire back on the relay connector (the old one did last 14 years) and use one of the methods described above and be done with it..........Hope this makes sense?
There is no doubt that 2 separate (main) circuits are on the bike. They are joined together at the battery as you are saying above. They are also separated by using 2 different ground sources and what you're describing above is just what Honda did about it.
It's safe to say they designed the circuit that way but when adding more watt consuming add-ons the dynamics are changed. The 55amp is the charging side- from the alternator to the battery and provides the total draw for everything when it's turned on.
The 20 or 30 amp (depending on model) is the running side circuit- it's from the battery to the start relay, to the key switch, to the start button, to the kill switch, to the head light, to every other switch and light, radio, cigarette lighter, etc. on the bike and finally it provides for the coils to the plugs.
I took it into consideration when thinking that everyone already knew all of that and went on to make a few points in reference to this knowledge.
1) Putting more add-ons to that running circuit is a no brainer. Over time it wears out all of those switches and connections with overloads as everything is connected to it. All the power passes through them to get to where it goes and...
2) If you're going to put more power consuming add-ons, such as the light bar I see on the bike we are talking about in this thread, save yourself some trouble down the road and put them on the charging side (to the battery) instead.
3) Better yet, connect them directly to the battery and take them off the already crowded running (start) circuit.
4) Only connect the control wire (for relays) to that circuit and save yourself some more trouble down the road.
5) Always use a fuse between the battery and the add-on to make it its own separate circuit.
5) Be aware that even the 55 amp circuit has it's limits of watts output from the alternator to the battery.
6) Wire grease works wonders on all switches, relays and connections.
