Valk rocks forward on lift

[rich_kildow]

I finally got around to installing my ebay "stays on the bike" lift adapter so I can replace my rear tire.  Last one that came with the bike and then I'll be looking at the Darkside!  But that's another thread...

When I put it up on my larin lift with the rear of the lift on the adapter and the front arm on the engine, the bike rocks very far forward.  Is this just inherent with this set up or am I doing something wrong? 

[R J]

Sounds like something is wrong.   Before I converted mine to a Trike when the jack hit it it leveled up and went straight up in the air.

Ya got any pictures of your stay their mounted and also, bike on the stand.   That might help us decide what is happening.

[Denny47]

Move your jack forward so that the rearmost arm of the jack is flush  with the rear of the bracket, better have a block under the front tire too when you remove the weight of the rear tire and wheel or it might nose dive on you

[donaldcc]

  I also have permanent lift adapter that is stable when bike is lifted.  I think jack stands are mandatory under engine guards though when taking that heavy back wheel off.  much more stable.

[hubcapsc]

With the stays-on-bike adapter, there's very little choice for weight bias...

I guess you're pushing the jack under the bike from the right side (side opposite the
kick stand)?

I spend time making sure the jack is as square as it can be WRT the bike.

The width of the stays-on-bike adapter versus the width of the jack-pad the
adapter sits on is all the wiggle room you got for adjusting weight bias
front to rear.

Since I've gotten the stays-on-bike adapter, I also have to make sure there's
no pressure on the header pipes, I slip a piece of paper between the jack-pad
near the header and make sure the paper is not pinned.

I barely jack my bike off the ground. I don't have an Interstate, and I remove
the rear fender section to take the rear wheel out.

-Mike

[salty1]

  I also have permanent lift adapter that is stable when bike is lifted.  I think jack stands are mandatory under engine guards though when taking that heavy back wheel off.  much more stable.

Move your jack forward so that the rearmost arm of the jack is flush  with the rear of the bracket, better have a block under the front tire too when you remove the weight of the rear tire and wheel or it might nose dive on you

+1 when you remove the weight of the rear wheel, the bike will seek a new resting point. Don't let it be a fall

[rich_kildow]

Upon further inspection, that's just going to be the way it is.  I do have several feet of 6" x 1/2" aluminum plate laying around, so I might bolt them to the jack perpendicular to the arms to give me more range of placement for the jack. 

I like the idea of removing the rear fender to get the tire out.  Saves having to get it 2 feet up in the air.  This might be enough to finally motivate me to get the HF lift table.

[Denny47]

You can also cut a piece of 1" square tubing the length of the adapter and bolt it to the front or rear of the adapter, this gives you an extra inch for placing the jack. I cheat when I remove my rear tire, I just park it under a stout rafter, take off the seat and use a come-a-long with nylon straps attached to the frame. No worries about the bike falling over and can go up or down easy.

[PhredValk]

Mine generally lifts even but with some bias to the front end. When changing the rear tire I put jack stands under the engine guards to keep the front up when lowering the bike to remove the rear axle. For other issues I use an 18"x30" chunk of 3/4 plywood so I can jack her up just about anywhere.
Fred.

[donaldcc]

  I am also very careful with my jack that I don't push it in too far from the right side as I almost broke the bolt for kickstand with the cross member of the lift hitting the bolt.

  Also as mike said about the pipes.  my jack is right up on them so I try to be careful.  i'm thinking maybe I should try a thin piece of wood on the front portion of the lift that does not extend out as for as the headers.  anyone do this?

[Hoser]

 I also have permanent lift adapter that is stable when bike is lifted.  I think jack stands are mandatory under engine guards though when taking that heavy back wheel off.  much more stable.

+1  Hoser

[Hoser]

Upon further inspection, that's just going to be the way it is.  I do have several feet of 6" x 1/2" aluminum plate laying around, so I might bolt them to the jack perpendicular to the arms to give me more range of placement for the jack. 

I like the idea of removing the rear fender to get the tire out.  Saves having to get it 2 feet up in the air.  This might be enough to finally motivate me to get the HF lift table.

I always remove the back half of the fender, remove the shocks, and remove the axle above the swing arm.  Hoser

[GJS]

I also have the permanently mounted jack adaptor.

I like the piece of mind when on the road.

However, I don't think it compares to the other adaptor I have that pins to the engine and must be removed for travel. That adaptor is solid even when the rear wheel is off. I used that adptor when I did a rebuild after an accident a few years ago.

The adaptor you have is good for most things but the center of balance shifts dramatically with the front or rear wheel removed. I feel very uncomfortable having kids in my shop when the bike is up on the permanently mounted adaptor. It just is not as stable as the pinned adaptor.

Each has its use in my shop

While up on the pinned adaptor for my rebuild.


After.....




Best regards,

GJS

[Chrisj CMA]

Upon further inspection, that's just going to be the way it is.  I do have several feet of 6" x 1/2" aluminum plate laying around, so I might bolt them to the jack perpendicular to the arms to give me more range of placement for the jack. 

I like the idea of removing the rear fender to get the tire out.  Saves having to get it 2 feet up in the air.  This might be enough to finally motivate me to get the HF lift table.

I always remove the back half of the fender, remove the shocks, and remove the axle above the swing arm.  Hoser

The axle kinda goes through the swingarm...........You probably meant above the exhaust

[old2soon]

While I use the home made wood adapter for my H/F yellow lift once I get her centered up and on the lift BEFORE I remove ANYTHING off the Phatt Ghurl I put a couple of 1 inch ratchet straps over the road pegs back to the rings on the jack and another strap over the seat to the rings on the jack. NOW and ONLY now am I ready to start removing wheels or saddle bags or whatever. Being as I wurk mostly by myself I REALLY don't need 800 some pounds of motorcycle tryin ta rape me.  RIDE SAFE.

[Hoser]

Upon further inspection, that's just going to be the way it is.  I do have several feet of 6" x 1/2" aluminum plate laying around, so I might bolt them to the jack perpendicular to the arms to give me more range of placement for the jack. 

I like the idea of removing the rear fender to get the tire out.  Saves having to get it 2 feet up in the air.  This might be enough to finally motivate me to get the HF lift table.

I always remove the back half of the fender, remove the shocks, and remove the axle above the swing arm.  Hoser

The axle kinda goes through the swingarm...........You probably meant above the exhaust

Yes I did, my bad, Thanx  Hoser 

[KSDragonRider]

That is why i dont have one of those jacks... I dont know why but i dont trust them.  I would much rather see my bike like this...

[donaldcc]

  Wish I had the shop, knowledge and time to use it KSDragonRider!  looks nice. 

[KSDragonRider]

  Wish I had the shop, knowledge and time to use it KSDragonRider!  looks nice. 

Well, if you ever make it through Kansas, you are welcome to stop by and use it.

[Brian]

Upon further inspection, that's just going to be the way it is.  I do have several feet of 6" x 1/2" aluminum plate laying around, so I might bolt them to the jack perpendicular to the arms to give me more range of placement for the jack. 

I like the idea of removing the rear fender to get the tire out.  Saves having to get it 2 feet up in the air.  This might be enough to finally motivate me to get the HF lift table.

If you purchase the HF table I suggest you purchase their wheel chock. The vise on the table is a POS. I bolted the chock on the table, slowly drive the bike up on the table while walking beside it and right into the chock. I am however 6'3", shorter riders may have an issue doing this. I have seen ramps built along side this table to allow the rider to physically be on the bike to do this. Each lifting method comes with it's own issues. Care must be taken and thought out.

[BIG--T]

 I am also very careful with my jack that I don't push it in too far from the right side as I almost broke the bolt for kickstand with the cross member of the lift hitting the bolt.

  Also as mike said about the pipes.  my jack is right up on them so I try to be careful.  i'm thinking maybe I should try a thin piece of wood on the front portion of the lift that does not extend out as for as the headers.  anyone do this?

That's exactly what happened to me just the other day except I broke my "hook spring" bolt flush!  So be careful and take your time- if I hadn't been in such a hurry that wouldn't of happened!

[sandy]

Lots of good solutions to a poorly made lift. Virtually all lifts are made of mild steel. They flex badly when loaded up. The rating of 1500 lbs is for the hydraulic pump. Some of the Chinese lifts have actually broken bolts under a load. Pitt Bull and J&S (I think) are the only ones made of cold rolled steel which doesn't flex under a load. I have a Dunwell jack which aren't made anymore. IMHO my bikes are worth spending more on a lift and not less. When doing lift work, I still remove the seat and side covers and strap the frame to the lift bars before removing heavy parts.