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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Proper Compression Test  (Read 2831 times)
alph
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Posts: 5513


Eau Claire, WI.


« on: July 10, 2009, 08:45:11 PM »


So I was on a ride with a buddy and I asked him if there was any white smoke coming from my exhaust?  He informed me that there was a little when I accelerated.  I figured that I either had a sticking valve, or worst yet a hole in my head gasket that would be letting in antifreeze into the combustion chamber.  The best way to find out would be to do a compression test.

I figured an engine is an engine right?  Wrong!  First off I tried doing my compression test the same way I’ve done my car, truck and wife’s van, pull the spark plugs on a cold engine, hook up the tester, turn over engine till full compression is reached.

Did a little research and found that the compression rates should be about 171# per cylinder pretty simple on a F6 engine since all plugs are readily available.  So I pull the plugs, crank the engine and got a very ugly surprise!  I did each cylinder five times with two different testers and my compression rates were an average;

1-67
2-51
3-68
4-83
5-87
6-57

How on earth can this engine be running on such low compression?  And all the numbers were not consistent!  Everyone who said this engine was bullet proof was full of crap!  (I thought.)

Here’s the skinny.

The most accurate reading will come with a warm engine, so start it up and let it idle for a while to normal operating temp (I ran mine till the cooling fan kicked on).  Blow out any dirt that might get into your cylinder when you remove your plug, do this with the sparkplug in the engine!  Undo your #1 sparkplug and remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers so you don’t burn your fingers. 

When testing, you must also fully open the throttle. Turn off your engine fuel, and remove the spark plug cables for all spark plugs, you don’t want to run the engine.

Make sure all other spark plugs are in the engine, and properly torque to 12 Newton meters.  Install tester in the number one, front right cylinder. Crank the engine over until the gauge reaches the maximum pressure of that cylinder.  You now should have an accurate reading of that one cylinders compression.  Repeat five more times for all the other cylinders, replacing the previous sparkplug. 

After doing this procedure my new readings were much more accurate.  They were;

1-137
2-138
3-134
4-133
5-134
6-134

Remember that you don’t want any two adjacent pistons to read more then 10 #’s difference, example if my number one cylinder read 130, and cylinder three was 141, then I would be concerned.  That’s when you start putting teaspoons of oil in the cylinder to find out if it’s a valve, or a ring.

What I will need to do now is a valve clearance check, and my numbers will most likely come up even higher.  But until then I’m now too concerned.  One ordeal at a time!! 

Al.
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Promote world peace, ban all religion.

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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2009, 03:26:52 AM »

I think your numbers will come out a bit higher if all the sparklers are removed when testing and if your numbers come up after a valve adjustment then something is wrong..
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2009, 03:57:24 AM »

That’s when you start putting teaspoons of oil in the cylinder to find out if it’s a valve, or a ring.

I spent some time being concerned about compression when I first got my Valk... got a decent
compression tester from NAPA and stuff... my buddy Dan's the man I go to when I have vehicular
questions/problems, he mentioned how putting oil in the top end is helpful in diagnosing low
compression... I mentioned it on the board at the time, and another VRCC member warned me about
how little volume is in a Valkyrie's top end... might not take very many teaspoons of oil to cause
a hydrolock...

-Mike
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Udo
Member
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Posts: 105


Germany, Krefeld


« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2009, 04:37:43 AM »

I would never trust measuring devices, which i have not calibrated, or had it calibrated through the factory. I´ve seen too many devices, torque, electric, etc. which were way off. In case of compression meters, i would either compare the readings to other devices, or test them with a calibrated manometer, using compressed air.

Your readings may be correct, but it´s also possible, that your tester is low....
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #4 on: July 12, 2009, 08:27:02 AM »

You do a compression test for cylinder comparison.

If all are similar in values there is no reason to go further.

If a cylinder is low in comparison to the others, then more testing is indicated.

What difference the compression values.  That is meaningless.  I guess that's where braggin' rights come in!
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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