carb sinchro problems

[franco6]

  well, made the the manometre, after many tries here is what s happening. #3 sucks the fluid all the way to the carb .when all the vaccum hoses and stoppers are in place ( normal riding) white smoke comes out the exhaust .i know it cold be the tans fluid burning up , but it s still doing it after 10 minutes. questions, which way to turn the adjusting screws to diminish the vaccuum?what would cause the white smoke? this engine never smoked before and yes i tested the instrument  with a vaccuum pump ,no leaks .we re going to inzzane soon but not like this! thanks

[FLATSIX]

Franco6, LESS VACUUM = turn the screw OUT !!!(counterclockwise)
             MORE VACUUM = turn the screw IN (clockwise)

Be sure to shut of the engine quick before fluid goes over the top of your meter, le stabilise the fluidlevels and then try again (turn that screw out) till fluidlevels in height stay on your vertical board.

Once you have this then you can starting to fine-adjust till levels +/- equal.

I use 6 different colors and cannot miss because I see for example : red has to come down, so I turn out the screw near the redmarked hose - don't turn too much while fine-adjusting, this is only "touching the screw" - not turning !!

THE WHITE SMOKE : I don't know - if ATF-oil it will go away I think. Perhaps that carb is fully out of line - first adjust and see if smoke has gone.......... GOOD LUCK !!

[Grandpot]

Franco:

Flatsix is correct.  Do exactly as he suggested.  Get the carbs synced, the  white smoke will go away after awhile.

#3 is the only cylinder without an adjustment, so if it is sucking more then the others, you will need to increase the vacuum on all the other cylinders a little in order to make it even.

I had the same problem you did when I first tried to sync.  It will work. 

[FLATSIX]

Oh , and another thing when fine-synchronising :

-I noticed that the readings are extremely sensitive to the ehat of the motor. The results that you have will change when motor gets hotter. I do the fine-tuning at the temperature that the fan gets turning : then the motor is 100% on temperature. (wait till fan stops to adjust = better)

-A second thing : I do the synchro when my lights are on, just like I am driving - here we the law says that we always must drive with our lights on - so I do the synchro also with the lights on to obtain the best result when driving.

Once the 6 are +/- at the same level at 900 rpm, I check what they will do when I raise the rpm to about 2000 rpm-2500 rpm - I wait and see them climbing till they are steady and don't move anylonger (or not much) - then I do the sync in order to get them all at the +/- same level at that 2000/2500 rpm.

Then it's done - I wish you success !!

[franco6]

 this morning, took the the tank air filter housing to check the vacuum hoses , replaced the petcock vacuum line everything else looked fine exept the vacuum plugs on 1,2,5, very hard, only had replacement for one that broke,
when it started, right up, no choke, no, smoke, idling at 800 . after a little warm up smoke on the right side.i now suspect the vacuum plug on 1.i lltry the manometre again later. i built this one L  shaped, short short side up, where there is an air pocket. as iscrewed the plug in i could see the fluid going up in the tubes. should i insert a valve there? i think i know the answer.
thanks for the info everyone ll keep you posted.
Fred

[Grandpot]

Franco:

It is very important that all the tubes have the same amount of opening.  Do not add any valves that would restrict the flow.

Make sure that the six tubes are the only access to the ATF tank.  If there is any other way that air can get into the tank, the ATF will be sucked into the carbs.

The first time I did mine, I kept one hand on the Kill switch, and as soon as it looked like ATF was going too high in one carb, I shut it down, made a small adjustment, and tried again. 

[FLATSIX]

A GOOD CARB SYNCRO IS VERY IMPORTANT !!!!

I had issues with the foam in the airboxcover - installed finally a new OEM-cover. Before the issue I had my carbs sync'd - bike ran good and pulled good.

After installing the new cover I made a testride - bike ran good and pulled good, but the waaw was not there.

This evening I sync'd the carbs again - when I started they seemed not to be far apart of each other, but then I let the motor warming up and the levels change. When motor is hot I sync'd with my lamps on - then I maintained the throttle till 3000 rpm till levels does not climb anymore. Then I trie to adjust that when 3000 rpm is maintained and the levels stopped moving - that they are as close at possible.

Went for a ride and have the wauw back, bike sits on the throttle and acceleration + sound is good - believe it or not. But try this for yourself and be amazed.

[Ken Tarver]

this is so easy guys...no fluid to worry about sucking too far (i did try the fluid type previously).
each gauge was tested independently on the same vacuum source for calibration accuracy...one was taken back for replacement.

[franco6]

KEN it looks great! where did you get the gages? i hate that darnned trans fluid ,its everywhere.also, would one gage applied in turn to each port while the others are plugged, obtain a workeable  solution? thanks
Fred

[woefman]

Wow looks like I got a lot to learn whats with the Trans Fluid ?

You can techie with me I was a Auto Technician for 14 years, worked at Dealers Ford G.M. And Cadillac.

Wanted to sync or check my carbs as well cause bike new to me.

My friends 3 out of 4 have gauges.

[FLATSIX]

FRANCO6,

If your 6 gauges ATF-machine is 100% airtight, then you have the best and most accurate vacuummeter of the world !!

You must only get used to it - I am not a mechanical, but I assure you that I do synchronise my carbs 100 times better then the Hondadealer does or can, because het has not that same accurate machine like we have.

The first time you use it, start the machine with your hand on the stop-button. When the carbs are way out each other, then fluid raises very quick, so act quick too and shut of the motor - then turn the gauge that raises that much 1/4 turn out to let drop the vacuum and eventually for gauges that go too low, turn the screw of that gauge slightly in to raise the vacuum and start the motor again till all 6 gauges stay on your wooden board .

Once this is done you only have to adjust with very small turns - be patient with this job. I can bliep the throttle as much as I want, even raise the rpm till 6500 rpm : the fluid will not go over the top - it's safe once you get over the first step of adjusting.

By the way : when all 6 close to each others then raise motor rpm till 3000 rpm with the throttle and keep it there till all 6 gauges stop climbing : re-adjust till when raising throttle till 3000 rpm all 6 stay steady and approx. at the same height.

Make a testride and then I already know what you will mumble :  "WAAUW" !

Success

[Ken Tarver]

franco6
Got the gauges at Harbor Freight. Regular price is $12.99 ea. Each one comes in a blow mold case with a section of hose and some fittings. Their 10% coupons help with the price. I also got some fish tank valves to control the bounce of the needles. I did find some $8 gauges at Granger, but they were only 2 inch dia. I liked the 4 inchers better.
You can use just one or two gauges.....but as you know each time you adjust one carb, the others change so you have to keep moving around to pinch off and open up each carb tube to adjust. Using 6 gauges you can see what is happening with all 6 carbs at the same time. I still had to go around the bike a number of times to get mine done, but only to make adjustments to each carb (except 3 of course).