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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Thanks everyone for the assistance on my Re-jet project  (Read 3341 times)
JimL
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Posts: 1380


Naples,FL


« on: July 18, 2009, 07:27:20 AM »

I know this is a bad time to post a technical question since many folks are on their way to Inzane..however...

I tore down my Tourer last week to install new slow jets in the carbs (38's).  I used the instructions posted on ShopTalk:

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/jetting.htm

Everything seemed to go according to the instructions, however after removing the intake manifolds and loosening the carbs....I could not pull the carbs out far enough to get access to the bowls in order to remove them and do the re-jet.  Does one bank of carbs need to be removed from the frame???  Am I missing something else???  

Anyway, I put the thing back together since I didn't want to leave it in pieces while I'm at Inzane.  If anyone has any ideas were I went wrong I would appreciate the input...before I tear back into it again.

Thanks,
Jim

« Last Edit: August 05, 2009, 04:56:44 PM by JimL » Logged

Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2009, 07:45:15 AM »

All six carburetors come out as a unit. I don't understand why you, or for that matter anyone want's to change out the low speed jets. All you will get is less gas mileage. I admit there's a lot of hype about doing so, bur there also is much more about trying to then get the motor to run properly.

That old adage about "if it ain't broke" is very applicable here.

Changing the exhaust is not an "always do this" reason to change the jets.  I'm sure we'll hear from all the "experts" on this statement.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
JimL
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Posts: 1380


Naples,FL


« Reply #2 on: July 18, 2009, 08:09:06 AM »

All six carburetors come out as a unit. I don't understand why you, or for that matter anyone want's to change out the low speed jets. All you will get is less gas mileage. I admit there's a lot of hype about doing so, bur there also is much more about trying to then get the motor to run properly.

That old adage about "if it ain't broke" is very applicable here.

Changing the exhaust is not an "always do this" reason to change the jets.  I'm sure we'll hear from all the "experts" on this statement.
I really don't "want" to do it, I am doing it because I feel that the larger jet will be less susceptible to getting clogged with debris.  I suppose a good argument could be made that it would be easier to install an inline filter to reduce the amount of debris making it to the carb.  Since I have to clean the carbs anyway, I figured that I would install the larger jets AND install an inline filter.  Hopefully these 2 measures will insure I don't have to deal with clogged slow jets anymore!

Thanks,
Jim
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98valk
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Posts: 13485


South Jersey


« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2009, 08:22:57 PM »


I really don't "want" to do it, I am doing it because I feel that the larger jet will be less susceptible to getting clogged with debris.  [/quote]

that's not a reason. both can clogg. learn what causes clogging and avoid it. any pilot jet mixture screw can be opened up 4 turns out. after that then larger pilot to accomplish the proper tunning.  factory pro site has all of this tunning info.
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JimL
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Posts: 1380


Naples,FL


« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2009, 04:55:40 AM »


that's not a reason. both can clogg. learn what causes clogging and avoid it. any pilot jet mixture screw can be opened up 4 turns out. after that then larger pilot to accomplish the proper tunning.  factory pro site has all of this tunning info.
Don't get me wrong folks I appreciate the suggestions.  However I am satisfied as to the merits of why I would or wouldn't install a larger slow jet; and of course you are correct ANY jet can clog given large enough debris.  It is my humble opinion that the 38 is less likely to clog...and if/when it does will do so less often.  

The problem I am having is that once I loosen the carbs and pull them out to one side, I can't pull the carbs up enough to get access to the bottom on the carbs.  Even though I didn't try it, I think I can get a very small screwdriver under them (2" screwdriver) and unscrew the bowls..however I doubt that I can see the jets once I get the bowl off.  

Possibly this is the way it is supposed to be done, however at the time it did not appear to me that the carbs were out enough to do the job.  If someone could chime in that has already done it, I would appreciate it.

Jim
« Last Edit: July 19, 2009, 05:03:33 AM by JimL » Logged

Kingbee
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VRCC# 576

Northern Illinois


« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2009, 05:38:27 AM »

When I do jet removals, I don't try to pull the carbs out.  In fact, I leave the intakes loosely connected on the other side to act as a hinge, and then tie the "work" side up as high as possible.  Using a mirror under there for the jets is helpful for the first few, until you get the feel of where they are.  The most difficult part seems to be getting the bowl screws out, without stripping the heads.  It's most helpful to have JIS bits, and use as much upward pressure as possible to break them loose.

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dreamaker
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Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2009, 05:50:57 AM »

Maybe this will help a little. I also change my jets without taking the carbs out, its not that bad. I made up these bits so I can pull the jets without disturbing anything else around it. I use an old antenna tubes. I have one for slow jet and one for the main jet, they work great.

Dan
« Last Edit: July 19, 2009, 05:54:25 AM by dreamaker » Logged
JimL
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Posts: 1380


Naples,FL


« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2009, 07:22:30 AM »

When I do jet removals, I don't try to pull the carbs out.  In fact, I leave the intakes loosely connected on the other side to act as a hinge, and then tie the "work" side up as high as possible.  Using a mirror under there for the jets is helpful for the first few, until you get the feel of where they are.  The most difficult part seems to be getting the bowl screws out, without stripping the heads.  It's most helpful to have JIS bits, and use as much upward pressure as possible to break them loose.




Thanks Walt and Dan...that is exactly the stuff I needed to see.  I don't think I will have any problem now.

Thanks again,
Jim
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Bone
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« Reply #8 on: July 19, 2009, 07:37:25 AM »

Great pictures and tips Walt and Dan.  Jim did you notice the plugged intake ports Smiley
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JimL
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Posts: 1380


Naples,FL


« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2009, 08:00:38 AM »

Great pictures and tips Walt and Dan.  Jim did you notice the plugged intake ports Smiley
Yes I did.  I used the plastic bags that you get when you check out at Walmart.
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stude31
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Posts: 1100


Topeka,ks


« Reply #10 on: July 19, 2009, 09:35:05 AM »

Kingbee...  

You hit the nail on the head in regards to those dog-gone screws on the bowls... tickedoff

Pharmboy and I re-jetted my I/S w/ the 38's and there were about five that wouldn't come off and I used the same ratcheting tool that you show in your picture.  We ended up going to the hardware store or maybe automotive store and bought some little vise grips, needle nose.  We hooked onto the stripped head of those phillips screws and off they came.  I replaced my screws with hex screws.  Much easier to get on and off and no need to worry about stripping the heads like those soft oem screws....

Regarding the "Don't fix if it isn't broke", I have added all kinds of things to my bike and replaced non chrome parts with chrome.  It wasn't broke but it sure gives the bike some added personality.  To each his own! And one thing that stuff like this does, is that it gives you more of an awareness of how the valkyrie works and how to fix when it does break.  I enjoy working on my bike and taking her apart.  So when the time arises (if ever), I am ready for the task at hand!!!

It's a hobby bro!   cooldude

And I like to "tinker", and learn about it!  That's why I am here!

And you should see the faces of fellow riders when I show them pics of my bike all dis-assembled and then the after pic of it all back together!!  

Anyhow...  not much longer JimL!!!   Have a safe journey to Enid...  I'll see ya there!!
« Last Edit: July 19, 2009, 09:38:09 AM by stude31 » Logged

John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #11 on: July 19, 2009, 03:56:49 PM »

I've had the #38's in for about 2 1/2 yrs. now and it affected my mileage very little....maybe 2 mpg at interstate speeds. Last year on a trip after InZane, I went west to Illinois through the hill country of Tenn. and Kentucky and at times got as much as 41 mpg. That only happened when running just below 3k rpm which was best in some locations, but the lowest I got was 37 running on I-70 headed east to Columbus, OH. This is all with a load on, riding solo. So, if the bike is set up right the #38's won't really hurt you that much.

Just my facts, others will be different.
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JimL
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Posts: 1380


Naples,FL


« Reply #12 on: August 05, 2009, 04:47:13 PM »

I finally finished my rejet project this evening, sync'd the carbs...and was extremely pleased with the results.  Don't know if it was because of the newly cleaned carbs, the new jets (38's) or both; but the bike now runs like it is brand new.  Thanks to everyone that chimed in with technical help.

Jim
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stude31
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Posts: 1100


Topeka,ks


« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2009, 05:03:22 AM »

I finally finished my rejet project this evening, sync'd the carbs...and was extremely pleased with the results.  Don't know if it was because of the newly cleaned carbs, the new jets (38's) or both; but the bike now runs like it is brand new.  Thanks to everyone that chimed in with technical help.

Jim

Congrats Jim, I also got your dvd of pics from our trip...  Thank you and look forward to riding w/ you again...  Have a great day... I am in San Antonio on the bike right now!!!!
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