What wire do I tap in to .....

[wobray]

from my switched fuse block (Easternbeaver) that kills everything in the fuse block when the starter button is pressed.
Currently I have placed it in a wire in a boot on the right side with an empty female connector. All of the accessories connected to the fuse block turn off when the ignition is turned off. It's difficult for me to confirm that all of my accessory lights actually do turn off during start.
Oh, I have a 1998 Valk standard.
TIG

[PhredValk]

I wouldn't worry about it. Off with the key is the important thing.

Turning headlights off with the starter is useful due to the very high draw of the headlight(s), but accessories that draw little power are of no importance. I run GPS, Ipod, and power points for phone and laptop and have no issues starting without turning them off with the starter. In fact, turning the GPS off with the starter would be a hassle; resetting it every start.
Fred.

[Valkpilot]

I wouldn't worry about it. Off with the key is the important thing.

Turning headlights off with the starter is useful due to the very high draw of the headlight(s), but accessories that draw little power are of no importance. I run GPS, Ipod, and power points for phone and laptop and have no issues starting without turning them off with the starter. In fact, turning the GPS off with the starter would be a hassle; resetting it every start.
Fred.

What he said, with the added qualification that if you have driving lights running off your accessory fuse panel, they need a relay in the circuit and they need to be off while the start button is engaged.  The relay keeps load off the starter switch, the "off while cranking" requirement keeps load off the starting system.

Here's a recent discussion of the subject: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,56705.msg544495.html#msg544495

[hubcapsc]

I wouldn't worry about it. Off with the key is the important thing.

Turning headlights off with the starter is useful due to the very high draw of the headlight(s), but accessories that draw little power are of no importance. I run GPS, Ipod, and power points for phone and laptop and have no issues starting without turning them off with the starter. In fact, turning the GPS off with the starter would be a hassle; resetting it every start.
Fred.

What he said, with the added qualification that if you have driving lights running off your accessory fuse panel, they need a relay in the circuit and they need to be off while the start button is engaged.  The relay keeps load off the starter switch, the "off while cranking" requirement keeps load off the starting system.

Here's a recent discussion of the subject: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,56705.msg544495.html#msg544495

A PDM60 (as opposed to regular fuse panels) doesn't fire up until seven seconds (a programmable amount of time actually)
after you turn the key on. I only just got the PDM60, I had had a fuse panel and relays... I've been starting my bike with
the motolights on for six years with no trouble... not recommending it, just admitting it...



-Mike

[Ricky-D]

from my switched fuse block (Easternbeaver) that kills everything in the fuse block when the starter button is pressed.
Currently I have placed it in a wire in a boot on the right side with an empty female connector. All of the accessories connected to the fuse block turn off when the ignition is turned off. It's difficult for me to confirm that all of my accessory lights actually do turn off during start.
Oh, I have a 1998 Valk standard.
TIG

Disconnect the starter motor, and with that you can hold the starting button down without fear, to allow enough time to ascertain to your satisfaction that there are no accessories still being energized.

***

[BF]

If this is where you ran the 5 amp power lead from the PC-8, then you did it right.....





When I ran mine, I still used relays on the high wattage items such as driving lights and auxilary lights.  I also wired them through a switch so I could shut them off if I ever needed/wanted.

[hubcapsc]

from my switched fuse block (Easternbeaver) that kills everything in the fuse block when the starter button is pressed.
Currently I have placed it in a wire in a boot on the right side with an empty female connector. All of the accessories connected to the fuse block turn off when the ignition is turned off. It's difficult for me to confirm that all of my accessory lights actually do turn off during start.
Oh, I have a 1998 Valk standard.
TIG

Disconnect the starter motor, and with that you can hold the starting button down without fear, to allow enough time to ascertain to your satisfaction that there are no accessories still being energized.

***

There's two nuts locked together holding the hot wire onto the starter. They are "low profile"
nuts, most wrenches aren't thin enough to hold the bottom one while you loosen the top one.
I found it to be unwise to think I could just put my wrench on the top one and loosen it...



Instead of loosening the top nut, I destroyed the plastic bolt-holder inside the starter. This is
pretty much the only part inside the starter without a part number...

-Mike

[wobray]

Thanks to all who answered my question. I might have accidentally done it right the first time. AMAZING !!!

[BigBad1]

While I agree with the other comments about most accessories not drawing that much power, if you do have high wattage accessories or driving lights, you may want it to turn off during starting. I have the same fuse panel and set it up to shut off when stating. The best place to access the wire you are looking for is inside the headlight bucket. It is blue with white trace. This wire should only be used to as a trigger for your relay and not for powering the fuse panel. Like I said it may not matter that much for low drawing accessories but if you have a low battery, it may be the difference between starting and not starting. You can see the wire in the picture below. If I remember correctly, it was in the black plug (behind the wire in the photo). I pulled it out keeping the contact in place and made the splice.

[BF]

While I agree with the other comments about most accessories not drawing that much power, if you do have high wattage accessories or driving lights, you may want it to turn off during starting. I have the same fuse panel and set it up to shut off when stating. The best place to access the wire you are looking for is inside the headlight bucket. It is blue with white trace. This wire should only be used to as a trigger for your relay and not for powering the fuse panel. Like I said it may not matter that much for low drawing accessories but if you have a low battery, it may be the difference between starting and not starting. You can see the wire in the picture below. If I remember correctly, it was in the black plug (behind the wire in the photo). I pulled it out keeping the contact in place and made the splice.

That's the purpose of the PC-8.  It's the protection for your start switch so you can run ALL of your aux lighting through the PC-8.  As long as you've used a relay for those hi amp draw items, and running them through your PC-8, you're protected.  That's it's job and the reason to buy and install one. 

[MarkT]

I have all of my spots, and the headlight, powered by relays triggered thru circuits that have the blue-white wire in the circuit.  Meaning, I have a single point of failure w/o redundancy at that point.  So if there's a short in a circuit powered by the blu-white wire, the fuse blows and I have no backup to losing all my fwd lights - though other than this bottleneck, they are all powered by different circuits. That is, the source selection switches for the headlight and the two pairs of spots, get their relay triggers from either the blu-white wire or the hi beam (blue) circuits - which get their power ultimately from the blu-white wire which is the output from the starter switch (that cuts the power when the starter button is pressed).  It has not been a problem as that circuit hasn't failed yet.  I was just thinking, if I lose all my forward lights on a dark country road, it will be difficult to do a roadside repair in the dark, and I don't have an independent backup circuit or even easy jumper access to the exisitng circuits.  Hmmm.  Maybe I should add a circuit and switch just in case.  Or maybe the effort is greater than the potential breakdown recovery. How's that for being paranoid anal?