Nut Cage Mod......Hint

[Grandpot]

I just did a Nut Cage Mod on my I/S and was thinking about what kind of bolt to use to replace the original.  My first thought was to use a carriage bolt because of the low profile smooth head.  All of a sudden, VIOLA, I had an epiphany.  This is so simple and it's free.

The original bolt has a head with a wide lip.  Grind down the hex portion of the head so just the wide lip remains.  It will end up looking like a carriage bolt.  Paint the ground head so it doesn't rust and put it in the hole so the head is inside the fender and the threads are on the outside.  Use a 8mm chrome acorn nut to secure the bolt.  You're done.

If you do not have a 8mm acorn nut lying around, use one from the rear muffler hanger.  Replace that one with any 8mm nut (it won't be noticed without looking under the bike).

[Ricky-D]

That'll work as long as the bolt doesn't start turning in the hole.  Maybe leaving a little of the hex would be workable.

[R J]

That'll work as long as the bolt doesn't start turning in the hole.  Maybe leaving a little of the hex would be workable.

That is what vise grips are for..................

[Farther]

How about a stainless button head socket bolt?  No rust and a way to hold the bolt head.  http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=0538+8mm-1.25+X+BUTTON+HEAD+(STAINLESS)

[muscrat]

Many thanks for all the tips. NOw it all comes back, lol

[da prez]

  Most carriage bolts are a grade 3. Some are marked grade 5. I would not use less than a grade 5 bolt.
If you have a trailer hitch , go to a grade 8. An alternative bolt is a garage door bolt. Looks similar to a carriage , but is harder. Head size is not an issue for clearance (start of an argument) as when the nut cage is removed , you gain about 1/8 to 3/16th inch clearance. I have checked the clearance on all that I change and have never found a clearance problem. Leave shocks off after properly installing the rear end. Then lift the tire (rear end) up to check clearance. Complete installation and ride.

                                                           da prez

[Fazer]

I did the nut cage mod when I went to the Austone Taxi Tire.  Didn't really need the room, but I did the nut cage mod with a chrome bolt and hex lock nut because getting those square nuts lined up right, inside the "cage," to re-insert the stock bolt was the cause a many an F bomb.  Much easier to start the nut inside the fender and can be held with a standard box wrench (1/2" I think).

Didn't consider bolt hardness, but perhaps I should.  What you think, da prez?

[da prez]

  Most over the counter bolts are a grade 5. Acceptable for most uses. I do not remember the break strength. A lot of hardware is imported. If that is the situation , I usually go up a grade. Stainless is not really a strong bolt , but a non-corrosive bolt. There are grades in stainless also. 

                                           da prez

[Gryphon Rider]

What most consider "standard" bolts, i.e. the most common, are grade 2.  Bolt heads are marked to indicate their strength grade:




There are other bolt grades, but what is shown above are the ones we typically see.

[da prez]

  Thanks , I knew some one would post the chart. I'm lucky I can just use the computer.

                                        da prez