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Author Topic: rear wheel removal -need help-  (Read 2897 times)
houstone
Member
*****
Posts: 377


Can't get enough...

Santa Fe, TX


« Reply #40 on: February 21, 2014, 09:01:57 PM »

Don't forget Rapp's Law of Inanimate Reproduction...
If you take something apart, and put it back together enough times, you'll eventually have two of them! 

That's why i work on my Valk, I want another one!  ;-)
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Wewaman
Member
*****
Posts: 423


Dead Lakes Cruiser

Wewa, Fla.


« Reply #41 on: February 25, 2014, 09:28:59 PM »

 Grin parts arrived  today  cooldude  also bought a funnel with clear tubing attached to spout for final drive Oil , looks like tomorrow will be a Valk work day after I get home .  Got the battery on  2 amp charge  hope to be done by Friday.. cooldude     as far as the oil seal goes do I pack grease inside the seal where the spring is before I install it on the drive shaft ?  All 3 O'rings are on and got the thrush washer waiting for assembly.
Looking forward to tomorrow ,
 Thanks again  cooldude
Tony
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If you please God it doesn't matter who you displease   but if you displease God it doesn't matter who you please Smiley
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14789


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #42 on: February 26, 2014, 10:18:24 AM »

If you have the drive off the bike...why not fill it with 150cc of oil BEFORE you attach it to the bike so you dont need a hose??
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16788


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #43 on: February 26, 2014, 12:01:10 PM »

If you have the drive off the bike...why not fill it with 150cc of oil BEFORE you attach it to the bike so you dont need a hose??

Because if you're me, you'll tilt the drive some way that oil start pouring out the vent before you
get it installed back on the bike...

After the last time I used a bit of hose on the end of the bottle, it occurred to me that
if I had a bit of hose the right length, I could fill it up, it would have the right amount of oil
it in, and I could just drain the filled tube into the installed drive and call it good. I'm going
to try that next time...

-Mike
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Jess from VA
Member
*****
Posts: 30492


No VA


« Reply #44 on: February 26, 2014, 12:23:13 PM »

I measured once, and the amount specified just barely started seeping out of the fill hole of a straight and level bike.  I never measured again, just fill till it begins seeping out and your are good.  Same result, less headache and mess.  If you overfill, which is pretty hard since it starts flowing back out the hole, not to worry, it will squirt out the top vent until it reaches a happy medium.

A couple CCs one way or the other is not going to make any difference with fresh synthetic.

If measuring makes you happy, be happy.  And if you refill on the side stand, you must measure. 
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cajundood
Member
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Posts: 160


Down in da Swamps of Louisiana


« Reply #45 on: February 26, 2014, 12:34:51 PM »

does the rear brake bracket have to come off in order to remove the rear wheel? uglystupid2
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Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14789


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #46 on: February 26, 2014, 12:53:34 PM »

does the rear brake bracket have to come off in order to remove the rear wheel? uglystupid2

Yes, its held on by the axle.  First you remove the retaining pin (through swing arm) then as soon as the axle comes out you just rotate the whole assembly caliper and plate together off the disk, then the wheel comes off.
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Wewaman
Member
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Posts: 423


Dead Lakes Cruiser

Wewa, Fla.


« Reply #47 on: February 26, 2014, 02:57:01 PM »

Thank-You ALL for your Very Knowledgeable input.   Smiley YOU ROCK & IM GONNA ROLL  2funny:2funny
Wewa
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If you please God it doesn't matter who you displease   but if you displease God it doesn't matter who you please Smiley
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