N0tac0p
|
 |
« on: July 30, 2009, 03:22:05 AM » |
|
i am looking at shop talk and the trunk light mods. I like the options that Chet's page provides and most of all teh 4th option. that option reuires buying another harnessf rom the dealer, and installing the larger 2 filiment bulb in the smaller light. question is has anyone done this? like it -- don't like it? what to look out for? any help would be appreciated in making my choice of options, i am open to all of them.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Marty_in_MN
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2009, 06:08:13 AM » |
|
Hi:
In addition to installing a set of horns from a Dodge Hemi truck as part of some electrical upgrades to my 2000 I/S earlier this riding season, I did a trunk brake/signal light mod to it as well. However, I did the one that utilized the stock harness that added relays and diodes. I works all right, but the smaller inbound lights are dimmer than the outer, so going your route, you'll get brighter lights. Maybe there's higher wattage bulbs out there that'll make my application brighter, but after doing those two mods, I'd had enough of electrical work for a while, and besides riding season was getting rolling in my neck of the woods.
In my opinion the job was a real pain, and most of the pain had to do with (and I'm not sure if you'll need to do this) taking the trunk apart. There seems to be a gazillion screws holding it together. An exploded view of the trunk assembly will show all of those screws. And a majority of those screws are under the weatherstrip that needs to be carefully pulled/pried out of its groove, and then glued back in afterwards. I went and purchased a weatherstrip adhesive (3M brand) for that part, spending another $10, and using very little to do that segment of the re-assembly.
I eyeballed the mod that you're proposing. I decided against it because I assumed that the added Honda components would drive the cost too high and I didn't want to source and wait for the parts to arrive, but I never checked the prices. All said and done, I'd look into those aftermarket devices that combine the lights if ever attempting something like it again. One company, called Electrical Connection may be source. I also saw where someone had mounted a third brake light from a Chevy SUV or something onto the bottom of the trunk that looks real good, but maybe only yields more brake light.
Good luck on what ever route that you take.
Marty
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Master Blaster
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2009, 06:48:00 AM » |
|
You can do the same thing by using a Hoppies trailer light converter a lot cheaper. I used the powered one as I am rigged to pull a trailer, and it provides the power to the lights to keep them bright. The unpowered one just passes the power through.
|
|
|
Logged
|
"Nothing screams bad craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."
Gun controll is not about guns, its about CONTROLL.
|
|
|
Tinman
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2009, 07:04:29 AM » |
|
I bought the wiring harness's approx $25 each and canibalised it soldered everything together and took a dremel to enlarge the inner light hole. I have been very happy with it even after 3 yrs. And all you have to do is remove the light assembly itself I think 1 screw each. I also added a wing that was for the 1800 GW and it only lights when brakes are applied. Even someone mentally challenged like me can do it.... 
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2009, 08:49:54 AM » |
|
I did it with some light sockets from autozone and two 3496 bulbs in the orginal lights and 1157 bulbs in the new sockets. I cut the rear out of the inside (small) light side and installed the new sockets. I had to cut a small relief in the inner trunk liner to clear the bulb socket. I put a electronic flasher wired to the two outside bulbs so they flash when brakes are applied. Shoot me an email if you want to talk about this setup. 
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
OverdueBill
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2009, 09:05:24 AM » |
|
I am gathering parts to do a form of this mod. Already have the harness with the two sockets to adapt the inner lights. I may skip the relay part even though I have them also. I am going to add a standard style tail light to the fender for more brake/running light and to get rid of the ugly rubber thingy. Front turn signals will be replacing the rear and wired for run/turn. That should do it for tail light mods this coming winter. I read the tech files tooooo much. Oh yeah, if you haven't done the silverstar 9003 bulb change, go for it. Woooow! Lots of light. I got the adaptor rings to make them work.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
N0tac0p
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2009, 10:52:52 AM » |
|
are teh silver star the head light bulbs? i have the I/S, can i convert those if thats teh case? whats the cost of the rings?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jess from VA
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2009, 07:36:30 PM » |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 30, 2009, 07:38:39 PM by Jess from VA »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Madmike
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2009, 09:57:25 PM » |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: July 30, 2009, 09:58:58 PM by Madmike »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
OverdueBill
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2009, 10:11:57 PM » |
|
Raymond has a nice how to in shop talk on the headlight replacement. They are silverstar 9003 bulbs. The ebay rings are a better deal than I got. Now that I've seen the leds in the trunk mod, I may think about that. Lots of options. Where do I hide the relays if I do the Rattlebars #4 mod?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
N0tac0p
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2009, 06:41:07 AM » |
|
i have heard they put them in the area of the tool and manual sopt, behind the battery
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|