Troy's 2K Interstate project thread

[Troystg]

Hi All-

And the journey begins...

Last Friday I flew from DC to Dallas and picked up my new to me 2K Interstate from a great guy named Greg.

The return trip consisted of a quick trip to Toledo Bend Louisiana (The fishing camp) for the initial short ride to find issues and sleep there that Friday night.  That portion went off with no issues.  Next morning I removed the air wings and added a direct to the battery (with fuse) cig lighter socket for the GPS.  Very temporary, just for the return trip.

Saturday morning I left Toledo Bend and rode to Chattanooga TN.  Arrived there without an incident.

Sunday morning I got up, had breakfast and then rode the Cherraholla Skyway and Tail of the Dragon.  Finished playing around 2 PM and rode back to DC..  Loooooong ride after two days on the bike and I hadn't ridden in over 1.5 yrs..  Arrived at home @ 11:30 PM but safe and happy..  And tired.. But happy.  


Rode the bike to work Friday just because..

So today it starts..   For real this time.

1. Has a fancy Cruise control that doesn't work.
2. Has dual air horns that don't work.
3. Plan to remove the trunk. (Super Valk it)
4. Plan to remove and replace all the bulbs with LED.
5. Change the orange signal indicators with smoked or clear.
6. Complete detail of the bike since they added the air horns and cruise and left all the rubber connector jackets pulled back and all the connectors are covered in road grime.
7. Desmog maybe???
8. Front fork tune since I find it dives a little off throttle or on brakes (front or rear)
9. Remove and replace all fluids.
10. Suggestions?

Bike is a 2000 Interstate.  Bought with 31K miles, now has 33K.    He put in a new battery and brake pads (front and rear).



PS, I came in this morning to look up how to remove the gas tank..  Found it in the shop talk section in 2 seconds..  Thanks for the site!

Troy

[Troystg]

No joy on uploading a picture...    ???

Here is the link to it..

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6009206799467189394?pid=6009206799467189394&oid=10279927829926432547

[sandy]

Don't change turn signals to LEDs. Some have tried it but went back due to flashing problems. Smoked lens are illegal in all 50 states. I know it's done a lot but someday they get an equipment ticket and have to convert it back.

[Troystg]

If it "ain't" broke...  Get a bigger hammer...  


Pulled out the air horn system..  Now need to see if the factory horn was still on the bike and where to hook the switch wires that they had going to the air horn relay...

Have to pull out the air box to get to some more "stuff" that was the electronic cruise control...  I'm SURE that was an involved install as it is proving to be an involved removal.

Stopped for lunch and instructions on how to remove the air box...  Beautiful day here in the DC area so I hope to complete this today or tomorrow..  I was suppose to ride to meet friends for dinner tonight but I doubt it will be back together.



So this is buried under the air box...

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6009224108911547762?pid=6009224108911547762&oid=102799278299264325476

Once I remove this I "think" the cruise control will be out...  Then it is horn to have it back to factory other than the Mustang seat, the Bailey windshield and pegs / grips..  Which are staying..  Unless someone has a Corbin seat they would want to trade?  

[Troystg]

Don't change turn signals to LEDs. Some have tried it but went back due to flashing problems. Smoked lens are illegal in all 50 states. I know it's done a lot but someday they get an equipment ticket and have to convert it back.

Ok then clear lenses...  But REALLY dis-like the yellow..

Rgr on the signal bulbs, but the dash lights will be changed on a future project to replace the speakers..

The original plan was to add a 6.5" co-ax on the inward facing side of the hard bags but due to the curves in the fiberglass I may have to step those down to 4 or 5.25 inch.  Will also be adding one of the 45x4 class D amps from crutchfield right behind the battery but again later... 

Same manufacture as the radio and CB:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1410/Clarion-XC1410.html?tp=35782

Alpine alternative:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445A/Alpine-KTP-445A-Power-Pack.html?tp=35782

And Kenwood alternative:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAM1804/Kenwood-KAC-M1804.html?tp=35782

[NITRO]

Kuryakyn sells LED turn signals (deep dish led) that look great and have caused no problems on my 2000 Interstate.

[Troystg]

Electronic cruise control fully removed...  Daannng that was a b17ch...  But it is out..

So if I can sort the factory horn issue I can button her up..

Anyone have a picture of the factory horn and location?   

Anyone know the connection points for the factory horn circuit? 

The relay control pair were connected at the triple tree to a pair of factory wires with "female quick connects" that are taped and gown down into / through the right radiator pod..  I really don't want to remove that pod to chase the wires if I don't have to.



Nitro-

Have a link for them?


Thanks in advance,

Troy

[Troystg]

Pictures of the electronic cc system out and the air horns...

If you look to the bottom right of the air horn picture there are some handlebar ball mounts for I "assume" GPS and such..  Anyone know where they are from and where I could order a different size ball?

Electronic CC

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6009269639911228274?pid=6009269639911228274&oid=102799278299264325476





Air horns and handlebar mounts

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6009269641620188498?pid=6009269641620188498&oid=102799278299264325476

[Troystg]

In the picture below there is a wire bundle that doesn't look factory..  Anyone know anything about it?

Looks like a braided cover instead of the normal tape, split loom or black plastic tube..  Also it has blue tape on the end..  Always seen black from the factory...


https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6009224134364660226?pid=6009224134364660226&oid=102799278299264325476

[BobB]

On your turn signals; clear lenses are available, I have them.  The signals can be converted to LED, but it requires a new signal relay (located in front of the battery) that is not load dependent.  Also diode Y's have to be inserted to eliminate cross flashing.  I got around the diode Y's by retaining incondencent bulbs in the rear.  All my LEDs came from SuperbrightLEDs.  Do a search here, there are a lot of threads about LEDs. 

[gordonv]

Buy a service manual if you like paper copy.

DL the PDF one from Dag's website.
http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

There are also other "papers" there for the installation of other accessories.

[mike72903]

Troy, an easy thing to check on the cc is to disconnect the two flag terminal on the sensor that was down by the wheel.  Put the ohmmeter across the two sensor terminal and it should read 400 to 500 ohms or so.  If it reads correctly check the resistance of the two wires that come from that sensor after taking out the plug that goes to the square computer box.  I found these two wires were shorted.  The short was close to the wheel sensor due to wire getting hard and brittle over the years.  Carefully stripped back a few inches and it's actually a single wire that is wrapped by an insulated braid and the braid was touching the inner wire where it was cracked.  Should read infinity if it's okay.
edited to say I also don't see any magnets in the picture you posted.  If they're missing from the front wheel then it would't work either.  Should be six small magnets in the six bolt heads on the sensor side.

[BigBad1]

Kuryakyn sells LED turn signals (deep dish led) that look great and have caused no problems on my 2000 Interstate.

Really nice looking bike. That is my favorite Interstate color combo

+1 on the LED turn signals. I installed The Kuryakyn deep dish lenses on the factory housings using LED and a non load depended flasher with no problems. I used the red ones for the rear and clear on the front. I don't think the diode is necessary on the interstate model because you have two separate turn signal indicators in the dash.

As far as the horn goes, the factory wire does run along the right side behind the pod. The factory horn was mounted to the bottom mount for the right side engine (crash) bar. See picture below.  

I have the Clarion amp in your link but have not installed it yet. I plan to install to install it on the front forks behind the faring but have not done it yet. I did install Polk marine speakers front and rear.

[Troystg]

And Whew.  All done with the removal of the cruise control and air horns.. 

Gryphon Rider has requested the cruise control so it is not going to be wasted.

The hardest part was putting the air box back on..  That was a PITA!!!


After a lot of head scratching I finally realized that the horn wires that I had were the horn end of the circuit and not the connection between the handle bars and frame..  Bought some horns from AutoZone and hooked one up for now and will put in the relay to hook up both later.


Next up will be to remove the trunk and make the rear shelf a bit smaller.


Picture of the new horns to come later..  Going shower and go for a quick ride.   


 

[Paxton]

She looks beautiful!

[salty1]

Those mounts are made by RAM and I do believe they sell a larger ball.
By the way very nice bike! 

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6009269641620188498?pid=6009269641620188498&oid=102799278299264325476

[firea100]

As far as good info about LED bulb conversions, go to the Goldwing docs website. There are tons of info about bulb changes as well as anything related to Goldwing/ Valkyrie bikes.
Larry in East China Mi

[rugguy]

Here what I just did for my front fork tune.  Have never like the feel of my 2K I/S.....squishy, mushy and crappy to my taste. I just bought new seal kits from All Balls and replaced them and replaced fluid with 15w Bel-Ray (Honda recommends 10w). I also added one additional ounce per fork (However, MORE is not BETTER). I really like the new, stiffer feel. Just my preference.

A couple of words of advice:

1) If you are going to do the fork seals yourself, and they aren't that hard if you are a wrench-turner, but buy or borrow the Honda slide tool for re-seating the seals. The PVC pipe trick will work but it is a PITA. You can always re-sell the tool on the Classifieds here or on ebay.

2) The manual says you have to remove the springs as part of the process to replace the fluid and seals. Unless you are replacing the springs, there is no real need to do so.

3) Don't guess-timate the amount of fluid you put back in. Buy a one-quart mixing cup with oz markings on the side. Don't forget the funnel or there will be "cleanup on aisle 9".

4) Follow the manual instructions to the letter regarding the process to reinstall the front tire, brakes and axle. There is an exact order to tighten the bolts to align the wheel, axle and forks. Failure to do so could cause you problems of Biblical proportions.

Helpful videos....http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,40444.0.html Scroll down the thread to Jetdriver's post for the videos.

Always, ALWAYS use your own best judgement and the additional advice of any on this board before doing ANYTHING I recommend. I do it to suit me and that may not be right/good for you.

Good luck and keep posting about your progress.

[NITRO]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00514AJ06?pc_redir=1398990198&robot_redir=1

Here is a link for the kury led turn signals. They are plug and play, and remarkably bright.

I did need to use the diode that comes with the set to avoid the quick flashing, but my signals did that before adding the leds. I think it was related to the extra rear leds the previous owner installed.

[Ghost]

Very nice looking bike, seems like I have seen that color somewhere.    

[NITRO]

Me too...

[Troystg]

Intercom....

So I have looked in the owners manual and found zip about the intercom and how it works.

Anyone use it and if so have a reference for me to read up on it?

The bike is about to go back together from the rear end modifications and I would like to ride it with the wife and have the intercom working before I start on the front end.

Thank you in advance,

Troy

[MP]

Intercom....

So I have looked in the owners manual and found zip about the intercom and how it works.

Anyone use it and if so have a reference for me to read up on it?

The bike is about to go back together from the rear end modifications and I would like to ride it with the wife and have the intercom working before I start on the front end.

Thank you in advance,

Troy

for intercom, you plug your headset into the front plug, and the passenger plugs into plug on fender under passenger seat on LH side.  then, just talk to each other.  On all the time.  Volume set with LH control box.

MP

[Troystg]

So the mics are always hot?  No PTT switch?  Do they pick up road and wind noise?

And thanks for the information..

[Farther]

If you look to the bottom right of the air horn picture there are some handlebar ball mounts for I "assume" GPS and such..  Anyone know where they are from and where I could order a different size ball?

http://www.rammount.com/

[Troystg]

Thanks for the link...

[horn5390]

what are your plans for those baker air wings you took off?  I can give ya some pocket change for em. I promise

[Troystg]

Horn,

Sorry but I am keeping those to put them on in the winter for colder rides.. 

Troy

[Troystg]

This morning I finished wiring the rear signals and cleaning up the rear end...  So now I will start putting it back together...

Clear lenses on the rear with red running and turn led bulbs.  Added a new wire in the harness to the rear for brake light incase I need it.

Battery is dead so I will have to figure out what is draining it..  Radio and cb are removed.  

Now to figure out how to attach pictures....

No joy on posting pictures so I am back on the link thing...  Sorry.


https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6022194503551796466?pid=6022194503551796466&oid=102799278299264325476

[Paxton]

Troystg;
I think you are having too much fun with your new toy. Please, behave err... like an adult?
She's so beautiful... I don't blame you. 

[Troystg]

Troystg;
I think you are having too much fun with your new toy. Please, behave err... like an adult?
She's so beautiful... I don't blame you. 

Thanks for the remark on the bike..

I was an adult once...  Didn't stick.   

[Troystg]

Update..  I finished cleaning the bike and started putting it back together.  She is clean and looking good but I have encountered a snag..

Previously after sitting a couple to three weeks the battery was dead.  I figured it was minor and today I bought a trickle charger.  I charged the battery and it went up to 14.5 VDC on charge and 13.3 VDC off the charger so I think the battery is good.  It was new by the previous owner in April.

So when I put the battery back in and turned on the ignition I heard a hissing and click on the left side of the bike in front of the battery.. 

1. yes the polarity was correct.
2. I have the radio and CB off the bike.
3. I changed the rear bulbs out to LED's but I do NOT have them connected at the battery / fuse area.


Any ideas what the "stuff" is in front of the battery on the left side?  Relays?  voltage regulators?  More fuses?

It is not an easy area to get into so I figured I'd ask before I started taking stuff apart.

How hard is it to remove the battery box and get in there?


Thanks again for any suggestions or ideas.. 


Troy

[salty1]

Hey Troy! Well I just had my battery box out of my I/S just like yours. Your right about relays and all kind of other things that need to be unattached from the box and there's other stuff on the right side too. I'm not sure where that noise is coming from but I assume the bike will run. ?   

[67blkbrd]

No joy on uploading a picture...    ???

Here is the link to it..

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/102799278299264325476/albums/6009206794784943073/6009206799467189394?pid=6009206799467189394&oid=10279927829926432547



That there is a good looking bike.

[Troystg]

......but I assume the bike will run. ?   

No joy.  I tried the ignition again and once again you can hear sizzling / hissing on the left side in front of the battery box.  Even small spark on the negative terminal of the battery.

This time after it "quieted" a bit I bumped the starter switch..  BIG NO JOY..  The negative terminal sparked a bit larger, I "think" I heard a fuse pop at my knee area.  Engine didn't move.

My first thought was "Oh no, hydro-lock"... 
But it ran fine before and I had the petcock in the off position since I rode last time.
Also due to the VERY uncharacteristic electrical issues I don't think it is engine.  Maybe starter, maybe starter solenoid...

Ideas anyone?


On the plus side the rear is finished the seats and electronics are cleaned and I was hoping to go out for a 4-6 hour ride tomorrow while the wife is still out of town.


Side note, how do you find out what your member number is?  I think photostash requires a number and not a user ID right?

Thanks again,

Troy

[gordonv]

First, to check for hydro lock, which you should, is to roll the bike and bump the engine in a higher gear. If it turns over, no lock. If the bike stops, then remove the plugs (outside) and try again.

I think you have a bad electrical connection. A quick check would be jumpers from battery ground to ground (if that was the lead you saw the sparks on).

Fuse blown. Hard to find which one since it isn't working. You have the 50 Amp T-bone (spare in housing) from the Alt, and the 30A on the starter relay.

I'm sure others will have more to put in on the subject.


I would need to re-read the whole thread, but have your tried to bump start the bike with a fully charged battery?

[Troystg]

First, to check for hydro lock, which you should, is to roll the bike and bump the engine in a higher gear. If it turns over, no lock. If the bike stops, then remove the plugs (outside) and try again.

I think you have a bad electrical connection. A quick check would be jumpers from battery ground to ground (if that was the lead you saw the sparks on).

Fuse blown. Hard to find which one since it isn't working. You have the 50 Amp T-bone (spare in housing) from the Alt, and the 30A on the starter relay.

I'm sure others will have more to put in on the subject.


I would need to re-read the whole thread, but have your tried to bump start the bike with a fully charged battery?

Battery is fully charged.  Had it on the trickle charger all night.  14.5 VDC on charge, 13.5 off.

Will check all the fuses when I go back.

I followed the ground lead from the battery down earlier and it bolted onto what I "thought" was the alternator housing.  It looked like it was connected well but I will check again.

"roll the bike and bump the engine in a higher gear"  Do you mean push start?  Is 4th gear good?

[gordonv]

I believe some have mentioned 2nd or 3rd. It makes it easier to push start the bike. (some us the term push and others us bump).

I was thinking more of the jump from the battery ground to chassis ground.

Some have report good looking ground, but when removed they are corroded underneath. So if a jumper works, but the leads don't, you need to remove them and clean.

[Troystg]

Update..

Ground lead goes straight to the engine block not the alternator... It looked good but I can remove and check it in the morning.  If it is corroded I'll clean it and maybe put a little copper shield on it...

However in looking at the system and battery I figured what the hey, lets check the water in the battery.  It was empty.  Bone dry.  So it had voltage but could not supply enough current.  I filled it and put it back on the charger.  We'll see if that worked tomorrow.


Thanks again,

Troy

[Troystg]

Anyone know how to get your member number?