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Jeff K
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« on: May 24, 2014, 07:01:46 PM » |
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I bought a new to me 99 I/S. 17,000 miles, I was sure it would need some carb work and I was right. Odd thing was, someone was just in the carbs. They were all marked and fairly clean. But they didn't address the source. The tank has some rust in it, not bad but a problem none the less. So I pulled the carbs, desmogged, cleaned, added a 121 Advanced Fuel Components valve, and a filter. I made myself a Tee that would thread in to save space.    |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2014, 09:38:09 AM » |
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The assumption that what you find in the tank is "RUST" is
misplaced and more likely is residue from using "todays" gasoline
and the crap being pumped from a stations tanks.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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old2soon
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« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2014, 09:52:16 AM » |
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Keep in mind that the Valkyrie has a gravity fuel feed system. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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Jeff K
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« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2014, 11:38:33 AM » |
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Keep in mind that the Valkyrie has a gravity fuel feed system. RIDE SAFE.
Do you see a problem? |
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2014, 01:56:39 PM » |
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I'm not sure if I see a problem. ??? However I'm confused about the gas flow through the Dan Marc valve. I haven't seen the one you show.  I like what I see.  |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
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Jeff K
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« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2014, 02:22:14 PM » |
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I'm not sure if I see a problem. ??? However I'm confused about the gas flow through the Dan Marc valve. I haven't seen the one you show. I like what I see. It's a 121, they didn't have a 111 in stock and I didn't want to wait for one. It flows more, has 1/4" pipe threads. Seems like it will work fine. |
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2014, 02:45:35 PM » |
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I like it, filter and all.
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salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
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« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2014, 06:56:35 PM » |
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Please let us know how it all works out.  |
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My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2014, 07:04:51 PM » |
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I'm not sure if I see a problem. ??? However I'm confused about the gas flow through the Dan Marc valve. I haven't seen the one you show. I like what I see. It's a 121, they didn't have a 111 in stock and I didn't want to wait for one. It flows more, has 1/4" pipe threads. Seems like it will work fine. Looks good. I couldn't find the orifice size on the 121. Do you know if it is the .156 or .100 orifice? |
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BonS
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« Reply #9 on: May 25, 2014, 07:33:41 PM » |
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The AFC website says the 121 is available in either a 0.250" or 0.3125" orifice. Both of which are larger than the 111's 0.156" orifice. The valve looks good and your geometry looks even better, Jeff. Your fuel filter sure has lots of surface area and might just work out great. I pulled my (much smaller) fuel filter out after fuel starvation issues at speed while pulling a trailer. The right angle threads and brass tee makes for a slick location for the valve. Tidy and Cool! |
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« Last Edit: May 26, 2014, 06:10:12 AM by BonS »
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2014, 08:36:18 PM » |
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The AFC website says the 121 is available in either a 0.250" or 0.3125" orifice. Both of which are larger than the 111's 0.156" orifice. The valve looks good and your geometry looks even better, Jeff. Your fuel filter sure has lots of surface area and might just work out great. I pulled my (much smaller) fuel filter out after fuel starvation issues at speed while pulling a trailer. The right angle threads and brass tee makes also make for a slick location for the valve. Tidy and Cool! Thanks, sounds like this is the one to get |
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Grandpot
Member
Posts: 630
Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1
Fort Mill, South Carolina
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« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2014, 09:42:57 AM » |
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If you have a fuel starvation issue, get rid of the fuel filter. Many of us have installed filters and immediately had problems. This is a gravity fed system and filters create too much resistance to flow. The solenoid is a good idea.
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 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it. |
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quexpress
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« Reply #12 on: May 26, 2014, 10:01:20 AM » |
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If you have a fuel starvation issue, get rid of the fuel filter. Many of us have installed filters and immediately had problems. This is a gravity fed system and filters create too much resistance to flow. The solenoid is a good idea.
I have had a fuel filter on mine for years ... without any problems. |
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I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower ...
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Jeff K
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« Reply #13 on: May 26, 2014, 03:49:29 PM » |
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OK as I'm donning my flame proof suit I have to ask.
1. Why do I see all these elaborate wiring diagrams, with buttons and relays for a valve that pulls a puny 1 amp? Tie it to the red and white, or the acc wire with an inline fuse. I do believe that is how the blower bikes had their fuel pumps wired, right to the wire on the ignition switch,
B) If you have an electric shutoff, why bother with a petcock at all? maybe just a quick disconnect instead? I've been running my EFI Valks like that for years. Keep in mind, I have a fuel gauge and don't need a reserve.
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BonS
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« Reply #14 on: May 26, 2014, 07:33:58 PM » |
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My valve is on switched power. I initially tied to a coil wire but had missing at high speed afterwards. Others have wired this way without ill effect but not me. I added a relay and tied it to switched aux power and the high speed miss problem vanished. I've never revisited the issue to explore why.
Tying into the solenoids has the advantage the automatic gas cutoff in case of a tip over or when the kill switch is used.
I just leave my petcock on all the time and let the solenoid do its job until I need reserve. The only experience I had with a quick disconnect was the type from Red Eye and I removed it when I lost confidence it its reliability.
Some have rigged in a hidden button to act as an anti-theft measure. The button must be pressed each time the key is turned on to activate the solenoid valve.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #15 on: May 27, 2014, 07:29:50 AM » |
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OK as I'm donning my flame proof suit I have to ask.
1. Why do I see all these elaborate wiring diagrams, with buttons and relays for a valve that pulls a puny 1 amp? Tie it to the red and white, or the acc wire with an inline fuse. I do believe that is how the blower bikes had their fuel pumps wired, right to the wire on the ignition switch,
B) If you have an electric shutoff, why bother with a petcock at all? maybe just a quick disconnect instead? I've been running my EFI Valks like that for years. Keep in mind, I have a fuel gauge and don't need a reserve.
Very cogent points. *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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