How do I know if the wheel dampeners are bad?

[nogrey]

I just bought a "spare" rear wheel to have as a backup with a tire on it in case of ????
Anyway, bought one off of fleabay and looks to be a very nice wheel. Bearings smooth, rim straight and even came with a very nice (no noticeable wear) final drive gear. But as I was cleaning it up, I got to wondering if there was a way one could tell if the dampeners were bad and how one would know?

[rhinor61]

Well sounds like you did really good...

Remove the cover plate and inspect the damper fit in the wheel.
IF are difficult to remove and the rubber is not cracked  or the finger holes are not stretch out..
then youe GOOD>.

Bad one shrink and split....

I have some bad ones I can post a picture of... but since you can swap them out between your wheels (the same model year/group) you can just move them over or have a fresh set ready to go when you do the next tire change.

See I

[olddog1946]

Well sounds like you did really good...

Remove the cover plate and inspect the damper fit in the wheel.
IF are difficult to remove and the rubber is not cracked  or the finger holes are not stretch out..
then youe GOOD>.

Bad one shrink and split....

I have some bad ones I can post a picture of... but since you can swap them out between your wheels (the same model year/group) you can just move them over or have a fresh set ready to go when you do the next tire change.


10-4 on the shrinkage, yes it is age related, lol. Had a wheel on the neighbors bike that had the aluminum pieces loose inside the damper. Those are bad, bad, bad.  Newer dampers have the aluminum molded in.
See I

[Jess from VA]

Also, if you do need new ones, be sure to order later year production.  First couple years the rubber bumpers and metal grommets were sold separately, later the grommets came installed in the dampeners, and are cheaper.  All years fit all models.  

If you fiddle around in the OE parts fish, you'll see the difference.  I cannot remember the year it changed, but my '99 Interstates had the integrated dampeners.  

I got polyurethane replacements, but don't think they are available anymore.

[MarcusS]

I have had two low mileage bikes the past few years and replaced the dampeners in both first time I had the wheel off. The last one had a low RPM chatter like bad bearings. I was replacing the bearings when I noticed I could wiggle the dampeners with my finger. This was the chatter. both old bike dampeners had worn or shrank and were not pressing the sides of the sockets. The new ones get pressed in and do not move. For $50 it is a no brainer.  If the rubber is old replace it when you can. If you insert a screw driver in the center of the dampener and wiggle it is bad. Putting the new units in the freezer also helps them drop in easy. Both the bikes I had were below 20 K  miles when I replace the dampeners.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Also, if you do need new ones, be sure to order later year production.  First couple years the rubber bumpers and metal grommets were sold separately, later the grommets came installed in the dampeners, and are cheaper.  All years fit all models.  

If you fiddle around in the OE parts fish, you'll see the difference.  I cannot remember the year it changed, but my '99 Interstates had the integrated dampeners.  

I got polyurethane replacements, but don't think they are available anymore.

I thought it was the I/S models that had the integrated ones and the standards had the separate ones,regardless of year.

[Jess from VA]

I thought it was the I/S models that had the integrated ones and the standards had the separate ones,regardless of year.

You're right, I just looked in the fish. 

The point was to get the integrated dampers.

DAMPER SET, WHEEL
06410-MBH-000
   

   

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

Looking at doing this at the next tire change.  The integrated dampers are alot less expensive than the dampers/inserts.  But I also noticed the damper holder bolt (Bolt,Disk) part number is different for the 2000 (IS and Tourer: 90106-MBB-000) and the 97 (90105-KN5-000). The damper holder part number is the same (retaining plate).  Anypne know the difference? I guess I'll probably reuse my bolts or order '97's (since the manual does say replace them if you remove them...), but it seemed odd to me.  Anyone know the difference?  I suppose it's just acedemic.

[Jess from VA]

I don't know the reason for the difference in part numbers (or bolts), but the reason it says to replace them is because they come with dried thread locker on them (you'll see this at removal).  I just cleaned mine up and reused them, tightly.  I did not add loctite, but perhaps I should have.  They spin with the wheel, but I don't see how they would back out, and had the wheel off since for new tire and rear end service, and they were tight.     

[Brian]

The last few years I noticed a strange knock or bump feeling when slowing down with my feet on the engine guard mounted foot pegs. Last spring doing the rear maintenance I checked my dampeners to find some wear and a slight bit of wiggle in them. This year I replaced them. The bumping is gone. I did not know about the later year model dampeners coming with the sleeves already in them. Good to know.

[doubletee]

The last few years I noticed a strange knock or bump feeling when slowing down with my feet on the engine guard mounted foot pegs. Last spring doing the rear maintenance I checked my dampeners to find some wear and a slight bit of wiggle in them. This year I replaced them. The bumping is gone. I did not know about the later year model dampeners coming with the sleeves already in them. Good to know.

Very interesting. I feel a bumping (more than one) at low RPMs in higher gears with my feet on the touring pegs, too. Guess I'll check my dampeners next time the rear wheel is off. Might be the source of my issue, too, if it's truly an issue and not normal behavior.