Below 48 and bike don't want to start

[Jerryd]

  When temp falls below 48 my 98 Valkrie won't start if in garage. But if I push her outside and she sets in the sun for 15 mins she will start up fine. Any ideas what could be wrong?
  The bike runs great when running no misses. Idles about 300rpms  I can't seem to find anything pinched or smashed on air lines.
  Thanks

[CoachDoc]

Are you using the choke during those cooler temperatures?

[Dorkman]

The choke needs to be pushed to the point of resistance, then shoved further.  You should see the choke rail move when you look down at the carbs.  Common issue.  Mine needs no choke in the summer, just touch the start button with no throttle and she fires right up.  In cold whether, it does need choke.  You should be idling around 900 rpm by the book, but 900-1300 is common when warm.   When starting a hot bike, crack the throttle a little, no choke, and hit the start button.

[Brian]

300 rpm is too slow. Your idle needs adjusted when the bike is warm. I am running the stock jets so using the enrichment or choke is always used no matter what the temperature is here. Have you ever done any carb work on your bike?

[twdurdentwd]

Full choke past point of resistance, then as you start, crack throttle and keep throttle to it for a few minutes.You can then experiment with taking choke off when you think bike is warm enough. You can also toy with the big throttle adjusting knob between the right first and second carbs...should be around 1k rpms...this will help you during cold starts

[valkyriemc]

Three pics of chokes position;

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,25677.msg232676/topicseen.html#msg232676

[Patrick]

With a 300 RPM idle it sounds to me as though you're not using the choke properly. Like the fellas said, push to the resistance and then a little bit more.
Full choke will keep the engine speed up some.
Adjust the engine idle speed at operating temp to 900 RPM, it'll be a little lower until it warms up.

[Robert]

If you take off the chrome piece that covers the front top of all three carbs by unloosening the 3 screws you can see the slide that works the choke. If it doesnt move all the way in the slide you may have a problem. I hated to use the choke because you would push so hard you would swear the thing would break. Actually the cable did once because it corroded inside and had to replace it. I never use my choke since doing my rejetting and I like it that way but it may be your problem. BTW book calls for idle rpm of 8 to 9 hundred.

[Tx Bohemian]

I take it the engine spins over but will not start, right?
Are you sure you have a full battery charge? These things will spin like crazy but if there isn't enough battery voltage (9 volts left when cranking, I think) it won't fire up.

Do you know if you have an aftermarket "trigger wheel" on your bike?

I had the same problem, anything below 50^o the bike wouldn't start.

I fought this for a few years and went through all the suggestions here, choke, battery charge, etc, etc, etc... and nothing fixed it.  Until one member (Grumpy I think) said he's had this problem with a few bikes and it was the aftermarket TW.

I knew the PO had the TW changed, so I replaced it with a "modified" stock one and it cured the problem.  It even started in 32^o!! (didn't ride, just wanted to see if it would start)

[Gryphon Rider]

Full choke past point of resistance, then as you start, crack throttle and keep throttle to it for a few minutes.

If the choke (enricher) works and the carbs are in good shape, there is no need to "keep throttle to it".  My bike is a little cold-blooded and is helped by choke when under 18°C, and requires just a touch of throttle until it fires, but then no throttle is required to keep it running.

[Brian]

Taking off the covers over the enrichment valves will allow you to see and to make sure they are all moving freely. When my choke cable broke I adjusted the operation to avoid having to push it so hard to that resistant point. If all the valves move easily it is not needed in my opinion. Once I had the cable adjustment set for easy use I marked the control cover on the top with a red sharpie showing full opened and closed. I found that the cable will overwork the end of the cable that will eventually break in the handle bar control. Now the cable is only moved enough to allow the valves to open and closed as needed.

[twdurdentwd]

Full choke past point of resistance, then as you start, crack throttle and keep throttle to it for a few minutes.

If the choke (enricher) works and the carbs are in good shape, there is no need to "keep throttle to it".  My bike is a little cold-blooded and is helped by choke when under 18°C, and requires just a touch of throttle until it fires, but then no throttle is required to keep it running.

Ok

[Tx Bohemian]

Taking off the covers over the enrichment valves will allow you to see and to make sure they are all moving freely.
...I adjusted the operation to avoid having to push it so hard to that resistant point. If all the valves move easily it is not needed in my opinion.

Good "common sense" response here.

I did the same procedure. It's not hard to do.

I never understood the "push it till it stops, then push it some more harder"

When I engage my choke it's only till it stops, and I don't have to push hard to get there.  The plungers on the enrichers are fully depressed and the tabs on the slides are up against the body of the enrichers.
What good will it do to "push it harder"? All that is doing is stressing the cables/handle.