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Author Topic: Valkyrie Interstate Audio 101  (Read 21368 times)
theredark
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*****
Posts: 86

Derry, NH


« Reply #40 on: October 04, 2014, 08:49:25 PM »

Troy,

Just received my connecting harness for the rear speakers and it greatly simplified the wiring to the rear speakers.  Just separated the rear harness at the right side cover,  connected the two new connectors and routed the two 4 conductor wires up to the amp.  two wires  to the hi level inputs and two wires back to the speakers.  Just trying to find 3.5 mm bullet connectors for the front speaker connections now.  May try the local Honda dealer.  Do you know what I should be setting the crossover setting to on the Soundstream amp?  It's listed as 35 to 250 Hz.   I assume the slide switch should be set to HPF.   Thanks,  getting closer.     Brad
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2000 Black/Red Interstate
Troystg
Member
*****
Posts: 208


DC


« Reply #41 on: October 05, 2014, 04:37:52 AM »

Brad-

In  this thread BF linked great site...

Thread:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,72450.0.html


site:
http://www.vintageconnections.com/



As for HP settings, yes, turn on the high pass slider switch and set the frequency to ~ 75 Hz.   Under no circumstances should you go below 50 Hz but anywhere between 50 and 100 should be good.  You can experiment but remember what you hear parked is not what you will hear screaming down the road which is where the volume will be cranked up...   cooldude
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Troy
Troystg
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Posts: 208


DC


« Reply #42 on: October 09, 2014, 05:34:53 AM »

All-

Speaker polarity...

If you are curious as to which wire is positive and which is negative you can hook a AA or AAA battery across the speaker leads..  The speaker should "krackle" a little bit but don't worry the 1.2 VDC of the batter are not enough to hurt the speaker.

If the speaker "jumps" out then the wire on the positive terminal of the battery is positive.  If the speaker jumps back (keep in mind they are suttle moves) then the wire on the positve terminal of the battery is the negative lead.

If the speaker doesn't krackle or move it is either a blown (open) circuit (wire, speaker, connector) or you have the wrong wires.


You can do the same with a "C or D" battery but they are bigger and bulkier to work with..
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Troy
jadoiron
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*****
Posts: 2


« Reply #43 on: April 18, 2022, 08:19:05 AM »

The goal of this will be a running thread to routinely add new information as I get it.  There was a guy who posted on Facebook an installation of an Alpine amp in the fairing that I would like to get the pictures and include in this thread.  It was a good example of a "correct" installation.

This is a post for what I did to my bike, what I have seen others do, and to help anyone else who is going to do the same.
Great news, technology has advanced to give us GOOD sounding class D amps in VERY small packages.  The last year or two 2012-2014 a whole new group of amplifiers have been offered making bike audio easier and better than ever.
 
Your decision will be based on the "other" personalizations you will do to your bike.  For ME the audio was on the top of the priority list so that meant I wanted a good quality system that was protected.  That meant the amp would be under the seat instead of under the trunk or in a saddle bag.  Some others decided that relays, air horn compressors and other gadgets had a higher priority and they put those under the seat.  To each their own and only you can decide which way you car to proceed.

The factory radio on the Interstate plays to two front 3 Ohm speakers and if you have the rear speaker option it also plays to two 3 Ohm rear speakers.

If you change speakers they will most likely sound better but play lower since the new ones will most likely be 4 Ohms and less sensitive.  That is why we usually add an amplifier.  However if you remove the factory speakers and run the factory speaker wires into the amp inputs and the amp outputs to the new aftermarket speakers the radio doesn't "see a load" so the voltage needed to drive the amp inputs isn't developed until the radio volume is turned up to the higher side.  That is why an amp with variable inputs is nice, so you can match the level of the amp inputs to the level of the factory radio outputs.

Next is an amp with built in cross over.  Since we only have 4-5 inch speakers in the front  and rear they don't really play any useful low bass so having a "high pass" crosser for the four channels will prevent the speaker from blowing trying to produce low frequency sounds that we really won't hear on the bike anyway.  I would suggest to roll off the speakers around 80-100 Hz using a 12-24 db crossover.  Anything shallower I would bump it up to 200-250 Hz.

I put in 6.5" speakers in my saddlebags so I can run the rears full range.



Below are the five amp choices that I came up with.  There are more but these will preserve the radio fader functionality that was important to me.

The Kenwood would be perfect for my needs if it had the built in crossover to remove the low bass out of the front speakers and the variable input gain controls.  But since it is lacking those looking back the Soundstream or Rockford Fosgate would be better choices.



If I were to do it again I would do the following:

Polk db501's in the front.
Polk db651's in the rear saddlebags.  
Soundstream or Rockford Fosgate amp under the seat or in the saddlebag.

BIG change would be to have GOOD headsets in the helmet and the intercom fully functional.  That is what has taken me the longest and is the least documented.

But I should finish that up in the next two weeks.


If your Interstate did not have the factory rear speaker option you can get the rear speaker harness here:

http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_speaker.htm




1. Pyle Marine grade. Cheapest and disposable.  Mount this under the trunk if you don't have the CB or in the saddle bags.  You get what you pay for.  I can’t see this being great but in reality on a motorcycle doing 60-80(100) MPH does it have to be?
http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-plmra400-marine-waterproof-4-channel-amplifier--267-7040


2. Clarion 4 channel micro.  If you care to keep all the electronics by Clarion.  The radio and CB are by them.  I don't like the permanently attached wires.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1410/Clarion-XC1410.html?tp=35782

3. Kenwood 4 channel micro.  The one I got.  works well but wish I would have gotten the Soundstream or Rockford.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAM1804/Kenwood-KAC-M1804.html?tp=35782

4. Alpine 4 channel micro.  Good solid amp, others have used.  They mounted it in the front fairing.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html?tp=35782

5. Sounstream 4 channel micro.  Most powerful, great features, compact.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_530ST410KD/Soundstream-Stealth-ST4-1000D.html?tp=35782

6. Rockford Fosgate 4 channel micro.  Most expensive, reliable, great features.  
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PBR3004/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4.html?tp=35782

Since it is documented several times already I will not cover the speaker portion but instead just include the link to the Polk speaker install.

Fronts:
http://s161.photobucket.com/user/wixthedog/library/Front%20Speaker%20Upgrade?sort=4&page=1

Rears:
http://s161.photobucket.com/user/wixthedog/library/Rear%20Speaker%20Upgrade?sort=4&page=1




SO I know this is from 2014, but I was hoping there are still some subscribers following.

I pulled the trigger on a pair of DB401's for the front speaker last year (I didn't bother upgrading the rears, as most of the time I ride with the trunk off as a Supervalk). Today, I found this post and ordered the Soundstream ST4.1000D amp.

Now as someone who isn't a pro, but have done my fair share of small jobs like this following Youtube/guides/etc. I'm just wondering the pathway to getting this installed properly.

It's my understanding that the factory amp under the seat runs to the harness inside the right cover, and from there goes to the speakers?  I guess I'm wondering exactly what should be going into the input(s) and output(s) of the new amp. Does it amplify the factory amp or replace it?
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The emperor has no clothes
Member
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #44 on: April 18, 2022, 03:30:51 PM »



It's my understanding that the factory amp under the seat runs to the harness inside the right cover, and from there goes to the speakers?  I guess I'm wondering exactly what should be going into the input(s) and output(s) of the new amp. Does it amplify the factory amp or replace it?

I don’t believe there was ever an option for a factory amp. I’ve heard that there was a CD player option that went in one of the saddle bags I believe. But I don’t think it included an amp either. I don’t remember the radio harness going thru the right cover either. (But it might) In my opinion the limiting factor on our audio system is the speakers. Even with an amp I don’t think you’ll get much improvement without upgrading to quality 6x9’s also.
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Jims99
Member
*****
Posts: 804


Ormond Beach Fl.


« Reply #45 on: April 19, 2022, 05:06:58 AM »

Factory amp stays, It also controls other functions. When adding an amp, you will be putting it between the factory amp and speakers. You’ll use the wired inputs on amp not the rca inputs. It will make the factory speakers sound better but won’t get much more volume before they start to distort.
Do the db401s fit and sound good? Looking to upgrade speakers on mine too.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train.
99 tourer
00 interstate
97 standard
91 wing
78 trail 70
Joe333x
Member
*****
Posts: 142


Boston


« Reply #46 on: November 11, 2023, 10:57:42 PM »

The goal of this will be a running thread to routinely add new information as I get it.  There was a guy who posted on Facebook an installation of an Alpine amp in the fairing that I would like to get the pictures and include in this thread.  It was a good example of a "correct" installation.

This is a post for what I did to my bike, what I have seen others do, and to help anyone else who is going to do the same.
Great news, technology has advanced to give us GOOD sounding class D amps in VERY small packages.  The last year or two 2012-2014 a whole new group of amplifiers have been offered making bike audio easier and better than ever.
 
Your decision will be based on the "other" personalizations you will do to your bike.  For ME the audio was on the top of the priority list so that meant I wanted a good quality system that was protected.  That meant the amp would be under the seat instead of under the trunk or in a saddle bag.  Some others decided that relays, air horn compressors and other gadgets had a higher priority and they put those under the seat.  To each their own and only you can decide which way you car to proceed.

The factory radio on the Interstate plays to two front 3 Ohm speakers and if you have the rear speaker option it also plays to two 3 Ohm rear speakers.

If you change speakers they will most likely sound better but play lower since the new ones will most likely be 4 Ohms and less sensitive.  That is why we usually add an amplifier.  However if you remove the factory speakers and run the factory speaker wires into the amp inputs and the amp outputs to the new aftermarket speakers the radio doesn't "see a load" so the voltage needed to drive the amp inputs isn't developed until the radio volume is turned up to the higher side.  That is why an amp with variable inputs is nice, so you can match the level of the amp inputs to the level of the factory radio outputs.

Next is an amp with built in cross over.  Since we only have 4-5 inch speakers in the front  and rear they don't really play any useful low bass so having a "high pass" crosser for the four channels will prevent the speaker from blowing trying to produce low frequency sounds that we really won't hear on the bike anyway.  I would suggest to roll off the speakers around 80-100 Hz using a 12-24 db crossover.  Anything shallower I would bump it up to 200-250 Hz.

I put in 6.5" speakers in my saddlebags so I can run the rears full range.



Below are the five amp choices that I came up with.  There are more but these will preserve the radio fader functionality that was important to me.

The Kenwood would be perfect for my needs if it had the built in crossover to remove the low bass out of the front speakers and the variable input gain controls.  But since it is lacking those looking back the Soundstream or Rockford Fosgate would be better choices.



If I were to do it again I would do the following:

Polk db501's in the front.
Polk db651's in the rear saddlebags.  
Soundstream or Rockford Fosgate amp under the seat or in the saddlebag.

BIG change would be to have GOOD headsets in the helmet and the intercom fully functional.  That is what has taken me the longest and is the least documented.

But I should finish that up in the next two weeks.


If your Interstate did not have the factory rear speaker option you can get the rear speaker harness here:

http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_speaker.htm




1. Pyle Marine grade. Cheapest and disposable.  Mount this under the trunk if you don't have the CB or in the saddle bags.  You get what you pay for.  I can’t see this being great but in reality on a motorcycle doing 60-80(100) MPH does it have to be?
http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-plmra400-marine-waterproof-4-channel-amplifier--267-7040


2. Clarion 4 channel micro.  If you care to keep all the electronics by Clarion.  The radio and CB are by them.  I don't like the permanently attached wires.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1410/Clarion-XC1410.html?tp=35782

3. Kenwood 4 channel micro.  The one I got.  works well but wish I would have gotten the Soundstream or Rockford.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAM1804/Kenwood-KAC-M1804.html?tp=35782

4. Alpine 4 channel micro.  Good solid amp, others have used.  They mounted it in the front fairing.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP445U/Alpine-KTP-445U-Power-Pack.html?tp=35782

5. Sounstream 4 channel micro.  Most powerful, great features, compact.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_530ST410KD/Soundstream-Stealth-ST4-1000D.html?tp=35782

6. Rockford Fosgate 4 channel micro.  Most expensive, reliable, great features.  
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PBR3004/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4.html?tp=35782

Since it is documented several times already I will not cover the speaker portion but instead just include the link to the Polk speaker install.

Fronts:
http://s161.photobucket.com/user/wixthedog/library/Front%20Speaker%20Upgrade?sort=4&page=1

Rears:
http://s161.photobucket.com/user/wixthedog/library/Rear%20Speaker%20Upgrade?sort=4&page=1



any chance you are still around? all the links to the photos are dead.
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