No Go

[John Schmidt]

Wayne, re. the belts....I once had an old time mechanic for Jimmy Walker over in Daytona give me some sage advice: "They're guaranteed for the life of the engine. You break a belt, that's the life of your engine."

With that many miles on it I'd invest in some new ones. Just my opinion and worth every penny you paid for it.    You don't want this to happen from long time use causing stretching and rounding off of the belt teeth. Lets it jump a couple teeth on the cam drive sprocket.  

[Wayne H]

Got them on order John. Thanks, Your right I don't want to get that involved.

[bassman]

   Welcome to the "I had to replace my IPG's club"...only a few elite (?) members....

[Wayne H]

Thanks bassman. I got here the hard way, but I'm here.

Terry I did have the same readings with the part on the work bench. There is continuity between the connection points of the white/yellow but nothing on the white/blue.
I also checked the continuity on the new parts after installing them on the bike.

All good, Continuity between white/yellow and green/black, and white/blue and green/black.
Lessons learned on my part and my suggestion for anyone else with a "No Fire" situation is to save yourself some heartburn and check these wires first. If no continuity between either one of the wires  the IPG's are bad.

Bike is reassembled except for the lower cover. The timing belts will be here Monday, after they're installed I'll zip it up.

Radio is now working it recovered from a mistake on my part...I had accidentally switched it off..
Bike will be assembled, cleaned and ready for a nice ride along the Talimena Parkway next weekend.
Once again, Thanks everybody for all your assistance.

[Thunderbolt]

Good deal Wayne.  Thanks for confirming the information.  Will be valuable if it comes up again.  As far as the belts go I think it is probably time also.  I put a timing wheel on my 97 Tourer and read all I could on the subject before I changed the wheel.  I think the best advice I found was to use white out or some marking method to mark the positions of all the belts and wheels before taking them off.  The cam wheels have an up indicator and the timing wheel has marking also.  Depending on where the engine stops there will be some valve spring tension that might move the cam wheel on one side or the other once the belt is removed.  I'm not looking at the book at the moment but if I remember correctly it says to turn the engine manually with a socket/wrench a revolution or two and stop back with the wheels up and see if everything matches correctly before hitting the starter button.  Listen very closely while turning to make sure that you don't hear a valve touch the piston.  I believe I would pull the spark plugs also to relieve the pressure there.
Congratulations again.  Now you can get in some miles before the snow flies. 

[Wayne H]

New belts are installed. As I previously stated the old belts really looked good, now I know why. As I was replacing them I saw where somebody had made marks on the gears with a black felt tip pen so the original belts were replaced somewhere along the way.

In an attempt to travel back in this old foggy brain I think I now remembering my late friend George telling me he had the belts replaced when I bought the bike back from him a couple of years ago. George is no longer with us but I believe he said he had just spent around seven hundred bucks at the dealer for a tune up on this bike.

Your right Terry both cams moved about a quarter of an inch when the tension was released. Glad they were both marked, made the job much easier.

[Thunderbolt]

Good deal Wayne.  We can put this thread to rest.  Now for a test ride before the frost gets on the pumpkin.