bike just died

[Radman]

I was coming back from the local fair and the bike just died while I was turning at a light. Good thing my wife was following in the car as we were able to jump start it, until it totally died. This time while riding full out. All gauges went dead, even speedo while doing 50 km (30 miles).  Pushed it a couple blocks home and got it on the charger now for the night....but I don't think it could be the battery the way things just suddenly went and as the battery is not even two years old.

Any ideas what it could be?

It's a 2000 I/S with roughly 105K miles 170K kms on it. Did have some lights go out then come back on a few weeks later...but that happened about a hear or so ago. Could be some electrical gremlins?

[old2soon]

Same thing happened on my I/S when the alt took a dump. Dollars to donuts yer alt took a crap on ya. RIDE SAFE.

[Patrick]

Sounds like the alternator to me too. With the battery charged see if it'll start and measure the alternator output, should be around 14 volts at about 2500 rpms.

[Radman]

Same thing happened on my I/S when the alt took a dump. Dollars to donuts yer alt took a crap on ya. RIDE SAFE.

Does anyone know the part number and best place/cost to get a replacement?

Thanks.

[Radman]

Sounds like the alternator to me too. With the battery charged see if it'll start and measure the alternator output, should be around 14 volts at about 2500 rpms.

As I'm not very mechanically savvy...how would I go about doing this?  What kind of meter would I need?

Thanks.

[Patrick]

Sounds like the alternator to me too. With the battery charged see if it'll start and measure the alternator output, should be around 14 volts at about 2500 rpms.

As I'm not very mechanically savvy...how would I go about doing this?  What kind of meter would I need?

Thanks.

Oh, all you need is a volt meter. If its a multi-meter just set it to the best scale to read 12 volt DC [ usually 20 volt DC scale] and attach + lead to battery + terminal  and - lead to - battery terminal, start engine and watch the scale. Look for about 14 volts at about 2500 rpms. If you don't have it, then look in the archives or shop talk for the part number of the Goldwing alternator that fits. Its far cheaper.
If you do have good voltage, then just remove and really clean the terminals as well as the engine ground near the left foot peg.

[old2soon]

I got a M A R S rebuilt alt and am quite happy with it. He is in Indiana. Motorcycle Alt Repair Service. Enter M A R S in your search bar. If yer not mechanically inclined R & R of the alt MIGHT not be a good place to start practicing your wrenching skills or lack there of. When we say the alt goes in and comes out EXACTLY one way and one way ONLY we ain't joking. Some-not many BUT some have R & R alt in an hour or so. MOST-including me have learned new and exciting cuss words and I drove truck and was in the U S Navy!  Find out who is close to you-board member-and solicit help on the alt change if that is your problem. A lot of board members when helping out another board member like cold adult beverages and food. And if you don't have many tools they MIGHT want you and your machine at their shop/garage. Steer clear of the dealers if you can. Putting together a wrench party might be a good idea BUT DO NOT FORGET cold adult beverages and food. Good luck with yer situation. RIDE SAFE. Oh-one other thing-when my alt went it took the battery with it.

[Firefighter]

I also have a 2000 IS and mine was similar. My battery and alternator was OK. I found that the bike frame was not grounding good to the battery. A lot of things ground to the frame and if the frame does not have a good ground to the battery (negative) strange things will happen, like the engine will run bad or not at all. (Been there) I cleaned the grounds but never could make things work all the time until I ran a seperate ground wire from the negative battery post to a bolt on the frame. Check your battery and alternator first, if OK you should get the same voltage reading through the frame. Multimeter red wire to battery positive and black lead to battery negative check your voltage, and then black lead to frame, should be the same reading. I had to ride the bike with my multimeter attached both ways because mine would work good sometimes but not others. Let us know, we can figure it out.  Firefighter

[Bugslayer]

A couple weeks ago, my battery went out with zero warning. I tried boosting , with no luck. After charging the battery, I took it in for a load test. The battery tested fully charged at over 13 v, but the battery was bad........ Go have a load test done on the battery.

[Mean Cat]

Mine did the same 3 wks.ago. Charged battery started up put volt meter on it  while running and it was losing volts while running. Order new alt. from Rareelectric for $155.

[gordonv]

We are all waiting on your results on charging the battery.

What we suspect happened.

The alternator died, not charging the battery and running all your electricals.

The bike was running off what power was stored in the battery. When it got too low, or couldn't meet the demands of the bike, the motor died.

You where able to jump start from the car, which also charged the battery very minor, but got you moving again a little further down the road, till it died completely again. Which is when you pushed it home.

We hope/expect the battery will come back after a proper/full charge.

It's already been explained how to test for the alternator charging the battery.

For others, if you know your alternator is not charging, and you still have battery power to drive, pull your fuse for the headlight (daytime riding only), turn off any extra eletricals, so you have more electricity to run the bike as far as you can.

Now, just because the alternator is not charging the battery, doesn't mean your alt is bad. It can also be the fuse. I believe it could be the flat T-bone fuse. There is a spare in the holder. So you'll also need to test the alternator for power output at the alt. You can either search the forum for the how-to, or just ask again, after you have checked the battery end of things.

[Radman]

WOW!  That's a lot of info....thanks!   

I didn't do much with the bike today as I had various errands and such...but here is the update.

I did get a full charge on the bike over night and the battery may still be good.  I was able to start it up this morning after taking her off the charger, ran it for a bit then shut her down.  So looks like my battery may have been spared?!?

I'm planning on picking up a digital volt meter to check if I'm am getting the charge I need from the alternator and I'll provide an update after that.  Likely won't be until later tomorrow afternoon as I have a few church functions in the morning and early afternoon.

Thanks again for all the tips and advice...it's GREATLY appreciated!   

[Chrisj CMA]

Mine did the same 3 wks.ago. Charged battery started up put volt meter on it  while running and it was losing volts while running. Order new alt. from Rareelectric for $155.

Yep I had the same.........that's why I installed this.  Now I know all the time how my battery and alternator is doing.  I hate surprises

[MarkT]

I also have a 2000 IS and mine was similar. My battery and alternator was OK. I found that the bike frame was not grounding good to the battery. A lot of things ground to the frame and if the frame does not have a good ground to the battery (negative) strange things will happen, like the engine will run bad or not at all. (Been there) I cleaned the grounds but never could make things work all the time until I ran a seperate ground wire from the negative battery post to a bolt on the frame. Check your battery and alternator first, if OK you should get the same voltage reading through the frame. Multimeter red wire to battery positive and black lead to battery negative check your voltage, and then black lead to frame, should be the same reading. I had to ride the bike with my multimeter attached both ways because mine would work good sometimes but not others. Let us know, we can figure it out.  Firefighter

I'll bet you a beer the battery ground on the aluminum engine block is the problem.  Honda doesn't use a star washer there as is industry standard in the U.S.  Move the wire over to the left footpeg bracket mount and add a grounding strap between the frame and the engine.  Don't forget the star washer at the aluminum connection.  You can see the connection I had to do on a roadside repair here:

[Radman]

OK....so I picked up a volt meter and tested the battery.  Approximately 30 hours after taking the battery off the charger, starting the bike up and running it for about 3 minutes the battery was at 12.93V.  When I run the bike at 2500 RPM, I get 12.16V from the battery.  When I tested the ground (red to red, black to frame) I got zilch, nada, a big zero.  Also checked the alternator fuse (looks like a metal strip under right side cover, just right of the fuses) and that is intact.

So it looks like I have an alternator issue. 

Will start checking on line.

Thanks everyone for all your help...it's GREATLY appreciated!   

[Firefighter]

Battery voltage should be in the 14 volt range at that rpm. Looks like the alternator is not charging for what ever reason. Make sure when you test your frame ground that you find a good place on the frame like a bolt head. Testing through the painted frame my not work. Firefighter

[Radman]

Battery voltage should be in the 14 volt range at that rpm. Looks like the alternator is not charging for what ever reason. Make sure when you test your frame ground that you find a good place on the frame like a bolt head. Testing through the painted frame my not work. Firefighter

Got it.  I did test it on the painted frame.  Any exposed bolt to the frame would do?

Thanks

[Radman]

I also have a 2000 IS and mine was similar. My battery and alternator was OK. I found that the bike frame was not grounding good to the battery. A lot of things ground to the frame and if the frame does not have a good ground to the battery (negative) strange things will happen, like the engine will run bad or not at all. (Been there) I cleaned the grounds but never could make things work all the time until I ran a seperate ground wire from the negative battery post to a bolt on the frame. Check your battery and alternator first, if OK you should get the same voltage reading through the frame. Multimeter red wire to battery positive and black lead to battery negative check your voltage, and then black lead to frame, should be the same reading. I had to ride the bike with my multimeter attached both ways because mine would work good sometimes but not others. Let us know, we can figure it out.  Firefighter

I'll bet you a beer the battery ground on the aluminum engine block is the problem.  Honda doesn't use a star washer there as is industry standard in the U.S.  Move the wire over to the left footpeg bracket mount and add a grounding strap between the frame and the engine.  Don't forget the star washer at the aluminum connection.  You can see the connection I had to do on a roadside repair here:

I'm not quite seeing the fix you did here.  Again, I'm not very mechanically savvy, but am willing to try and definitely willing to learn.

More and more, a grounding issue does sound to be possible.  As suggested, I'll test the volt meter on an exposed bolt to the frame.  But I'm not really sure how to go from here. 

Questions like, what type of wire would I run from the battery to the left foot peg?  Where exactly would I attach it?  What does a start washer look like?  What is a grounding strap and how do I attach it to the wire?

Love to ride....just not good with mechanicals...but willing to learn...that's why I bought one of these bikes. 

Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Patrick]

It sounds to me as though you have an alternator issue.

Ground wire. Just follow the black [-] battery ground wire from the battery down to where the other end attaches to the motor near the left foot peg. Take it off and clean/sand it. If you want to add an extra ground lead, just use a short wire of at least, preferably bigger, size of the main ground wire and just attach it to the engine along/together with the original ground wire. The other end of the new/extra wire goes to a good clean connection [ no paint] somewhere on the frame. In other words, all you're doing is adding a jumper wire from the engine to the frame.

[Radman]

Got it.  I'll give that a try and see if that makes any difference.

Thanks!   

[Firefighter]

If your battery connections are clean and your battery voltage goes down when you run and accelerate the engine, well that sounds like your alternator is not charging. You said that when you tested to ground on the frame you got nothing, thats why I mentioned about the painted frame. The metal frame is the ground for ignition coils and other electrical parts. It is only connected to the negative battery by a wire. I ran about a number 10 wire a couple of inches long from the battery negative to the bolt under the right cover, I think the bolt that the cover rubber grommet slips over, but any frame bolt will due if it is clean. The frame is one with the battery negative. Sorry to rattle, but wasn't sure we understood each other. Let us know  Firefighter

[gordonv]

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,71184.0.html

Have you been following this thread too?

[john]

 " I found that the bike frame was not grounding good to the battery "
   
 
 

[Radman]

Ok...so ended up swapping out the alternator, now I'm getting 14.26V at 3,000 rpms, grounding is good and charging seems to be all good.

My battery seems to have lived through the experience.  It is taking a charge and able to hold a charge over several days of non-use.

Thanks for all the help and posts.



However....I've noticed my LCD screen does not light up anymore.  I can still see the time, CB and radio channels, and fuel levels...however, at night it is no longer back lit.

Is there a bulb or fuse that needs to be changed or did I likely fry something when the alternator went?  If so, what would the fix for that be?

Thanks again

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

there are bulbs that light speedometer and tach and I think also the LCD area too.

[Michvalk]

There should be a fuze for lights. I could be wrong, but, dash lights should be on a fuze with other lights.

[Yfx4]

Glad you got the alternator issue diagnosed and fixed.

For me, figuring out the problem is hard. fixing is easy.

The bulbs are easy compared to the alternator.

[Ricky-D]

Ok...so ended up swapping out the alternator, now I'm getting 14.26V at 3,000 rpms, grounding is good and charging seems to be all good.

My battery seems to have lived through the experience.  It is taking a charge and able to hold a charge over several days of non-use.

Thanks for all the help and posts.



However....I've noticed my LCD screen does not light up anymore.  I can still see the time, CB and radio channels, and fuel levels...however, at night it is no longer back lit.

Is there a bulb or fuse that needs to be changed or did I likely fry something when the alternator went?  If so, what would the fix for that be?

Thanks again

Bulbs mount right into the printed circuit board - bayonet type bulbs - they are most probably burnt out.

***

[Radman]

Been a bit cold out to work on the bike....but I'll check into both the bulbs and fuse.

Thanks again!