Shifter pivot for the Valkyrie 1500. Need a bike or two to develop the prototype

[Tfrank59]

Any update on how this project is going?  The radial play on my shifter doesn't bother me, but the side to side play is increasing-- that is a concern.  She still shifts okay, not leaking oil, and even though I haven't put an indicator on there to measure it, there is a slight increase in side-to-side slop each time I inspect it.

[Fisch]

Hello guys, I’m a Valkyrie rider from Bavaria/Germany and I would like to write how I fixed this issue.

My bike has indeed only 18.000km, but with such a defiency, I really don’t want to ride. In the entire WWW no remedy is published, therefore I have came up with an excellent working solution. I used except another original gear shift arm only simple buyable material but even itself needs to be edited, cost a total of about 30 Euro (incl. the gear shift arm found in Ebay for 15,20 Euro). An original gear shift arm was obtained because of the required toothing at the shaft end, for the engagement in the outside of the shift pedal. The gear shift arm of the 1500 GoldWing works too (is the same thing), but I have no idea where a matching toothing is also still to be found. Sure there are alternatives. Because of the processing of the gear shift arm may be added the costs for turning (only the second tooth ring is needed) and welding, and at last a little paint from a spray bottle.
For those who want to copy this unit or want to let it copy, here are some pictures as a suggestion. Sure there are experts among you who can for sure build that more beautiful than I can do with my modest possibilities...

About the pictures (not mentioned dimensions are individually selectable):

Picture 1:
second (original) gear shift arm (30mm crank) in use



Picture 2:
base material for arm bracket (A) and clamp (B)



Picture 3:
- parts in use (without clamping screws)
- the 100mm screw (S1) replaces the original lower crash bar screw (90mm)



Picture 4-6:
- a: the shift pedal has to be drilled at the appropriate place (diameter: 6,5mm)
- b: the processed arm has to be welded at this point with arm bracket (A), for this action screw the arm bracket (A) to the shift pedal and clamp the toothing, but before find out the toothing depth through mounting on the bike
- c: in case of unprocessed weld seam at the shift pedal use a corresponding washer
- d: use a longer screw (25mm) for the clamp of the shift pedal





Picture 7:
- clamp (B) 25mm x 25mm x 20mm with M6 thread (clamping screw) and M8 (swivel head) and 12.3mm bore (to clamping the arm), center of the M8 thread and center of the 12.3mm bore must be at the same height!!!
- the distance between center of swivel head and center of 12.3mm hole of the clamp (B) must corresponding with the original crank (must be 30mm!!!)



Picture 8:
The bracket (H) should be aligned so that the center of the lower hole (2) facing exactly the center of the shift shaft output of the motor (1).



Picture 9:
Insert toothing of (A) in shift pedal, then stick this unit on the shift arm from the bike, first tighten the clamping srew (d) then screw (S3).



Picture 10:
General view of the assembled parts. Washer U is positioned between bracket (H) and swivel head (G). At last, lift less the complete shift unit and then tighten the clamping screw of (B).

[Paladin528]

Peppilepew:
I messaged you the other day on Goldwingdocs.com.  Wing Admin is a good friend of mine.
He mentioned to me that you were looking at this for the Valkyrie.  I did have a look at my bike and the mount is similar for the bars.  I have a spacer in there about 3" long.  It looks like if that were shortened somewhat that your current design would work.  I am not 100% on that though.
How long would you need the bike for to do the design work?  Just curious on that as I am in Toronto Canada anyway.   I definitely want one when you have the design finalized and in production.

[Tfrank59]

Thanks for sharing this.  It looks like a lot of work – a lot of engineering – but how well does it function: (1) in reducing the sideload while shifting? (2) and in smoothness of shifting?  Very clear detailed pictures.

[BigBad1]

Count me in.

[Fisch]

@Tfrank59
It only looks like, ...that really wasn't much work, I did all in my little workshop in the basement or in the back yard!
Only three small parts to work on and some screws.  
The function is excellent, there is no sideload or sloppy feeling! With my additional pivot the gear shifting is noticeable more comfortable.
Here a distance view to the pedal:

[Tfrank59]

Okay, well it looks like it involves welding and some precision machining (I'm a machinist--shouldn't be afraid of that!), but I guess I don't get exactly how it works either--does it pivot off the secondary anchor point?  Nice looking Valk--got to love those motowings!

[Fisch]

Only cut off the first tooth ring on a turning machine und one weld seam around the shaft, thats it!
In the outer side of the shift pedal should be space enough for the second tooth ring.
If you watch the video from the GoldWing auxiliary Shifter some posts before you can see the same function. The pivot point is in the eye of the swivel head obverse the shaft output at the engine.
Yes, the AirWings are really great! If its warm you can get cool air up to the helmet und if its cold slew front end to the radiator and deflect all cold wind. I love these things too!

[Tfrank59]

I am ready to begin the pivot. Can someone local donate a bike for the project? It will be stored in a heated garage.

Hey there, any update on how this project's coming along?

[ammpro]

I can't ride till December, due to shoulder surgery. Unfortunately, my bike is in Arizona...
Probably will get one. How much will this sell for?
Frank

[matt]

Well I had offered my bike we had talked on phone have not heard from him for a few months. I know he had medical issues.

[Paladin528]

I have been wondering as well

[PharmBoy]

I didn't have a lot of slop in the shift rod, but more than I liked so I used Fisch's dimensions and fashioned something that works like a charm.  Didn't weld anything and didn't use any fancy machine tools.  Most everything was done with a drill press and belt/disc sander. The disc portion being the most useful.  I would say that a good dial caliper would help immensely. I varied things a little from his plans and if I ever build another one it will be even easier than this one to build.  The only direction this shift lever moves now is directly up and down and second gear is a dream to hit.  Here is a couple of pictures.

[Tfrank59]

That looks like a pretty good job, and obviously you're pleased with the outcome.  My concern is to jump into a job like that without any dimensions or instructions would mean that I'd have to wing it.  In my  experience, it's not always a happy ending when I do that.

[PharmBoy]

Tfrank59, Fisch has given us all the dimensions, instructions, and pictures in his very first post at the top of this page that are needed.  Being familiar with the metric system helps, but not a game changer.  I would say that this project is not for everyone, but I have always loved to build something useful and this project turned out to be all that I had hoped for.  If a device had been available that would accomplish the same thing, I am sure that I would have bought it instead of starting the project.  However, I have been riding with this stabilizer installed for several weeks now and I'm delighted with the results.

[Tfrank59]

I'm definitely not afraid of mm conversion (25.4 ), but I don't weld and Fisch's plan requires it -- I see you somehow avoided welding     Maybe I'll give it a shot, especially if the prototype one that peppylipew's working on won't be done for a while.  I guess worst that could happen is I cut up a shifter and have to get another one  

[indybobm]

PharmBoy, is the only mod to the shift lever the drilling of the hole for the phillips screw?

[hvacjack]

I'm interested. I have a 99 is and a 200 standard

[PharmBoy]

Indybobm, I ground the outside factory weld smooth and drilled a hole in the lever.  If I ever do another one, I won't even drill a hole in the lever or make the "L" shaped piece.  The cannibalized shift rod fits in the outside groves of the part of the shift lever which clamps onto the shift rod leading to the engine. Therefore, when you tighten the shift lever attachment on the shift rod leading to the engine, you are also tightening it on the short cannibalized piece of shift rod.  If necessary to engage all of the splines on the short piece of shift rod, I plan to grind off part of the splines on the outside of the shift rod to the engine to fully engage all of the splines on the short rod.  Also, the swivel attachment threads are left protruding into the hole in the block a little. Running the bit back through the hole leaves a crescent shape on the end of the threads which prevents it from turning any at all when the block is attached to the short rod. I also drilled & tapped the block from the front, not that it matters. I just liked it's looks better.  Also I cut the block a lot thinner.  The biggest expense is buying the right size bit. Like I said, it isn't for everyone, but I have always liked a project that is useful and a little difficult.

[Tfrank59]

Well, I just bought a used shifter shaft in anticipation of getting into this project, but I got to tell you I still don't quite get how it works – well, wouldn't be the first time I've built something I didn't understand  .  I do have access to a machine shop, so I'll make all the pieces and purchase the hardware just like Fisch has them laid out there and then try to do the mods and assemble something.  One of those deals where I'll figure out how it works as I go.

[PharmBoy]

Tfrank59, With a machine shop at hand, you won't have any trouble. Let us know how it works out.  I think you will be amazed at how well it works.  I was...Jim

[ammpro]

Both designs have the upper, stationary arm anchored by a single bolt, thereby exhibiting the potential to rotate on that bolt and bind. It would be better if that arm had an additional anchor point which would prohibit any possible rotation. A small weld, pin, or screw would help.
Frank

[MarkT]

Both designs have the upper, stationary arm anchored by a single bolt, thereby exhibiting the potential to rotate on that bolt and bind. It would be better if that arm had an additional anchor point which would prohibit any possible rotation. A small weld, pin, or screw would help.
Frank

The forces involved here are very small compared to the tightness of the through-bolt on the crash bar - torqued to 20 ft/lbs.  You can also add Loctite 242 if you worry about it coming loose.  Part of the design consideration by the German designer of this mod, was to have some adjustability to be able to better center the Heim joint on the axis center of the pivot at the transmission case.  My mod addressing this issue is identical in purpose, and uses a similar method to anchor the Heim joint.  The position of the Heim joint in relation to the shaft and the inner mount arm, is welded and permanent on my design and locked in position on the splined shaft with the squeeze fitting on Pharm-boy's copy of the German design. Trust me, when it's tight, it's not moving by itself.  

[ammpro]

I was referring to the upper arm.
Just a concern. If I build one, I will make sure that arm has no chance of rotating on the bolt.

[MarkT]

I was referring to the upper arm.
Just a concern. If I build one, I will make sure that arm has no chance of rotating on the bolt.

Got that.  The lower arm is locked.  That impedes the upper arm from rotating even if it was completely loose. But it's not.  It's torqued to 20 ft/lbs.  With it fully assembled - but the crash bar bolt loose - try to rotate the brace.  Can't move it much.

[ammpro]

That's comforting. Thanks.

[knockdolian]

Ive been reading this post with interest and intend to do this mod as explained by fisch. So ive been on ebay looking for the like rod and came across the GL 1500 original

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1988-2000-Goldwing-GL1500-Auxiliary-Shifter-Pivot-Protects-Seal-With-seal-/191679738503?hash=item2ca100b287

Don't know if this is the original manufacturer selling them or not.

[Fisch]

@knockdolian
This is the stabilizer for the 1500 GoldWing and not an OEM part. The Wings have the same problem, but this part will unfortunately NOT fit on our Valkyries! I tried this before I did the mod.

Guy's,
nice to see some good made copys!!
I had concerns about the additionally weight on the lever, but after 3.000km it seems to be OK.

@PharmBoy
Yes, I think, a next stabilizer could be substantially easier (with no clamp may be). For an adjustable prototype I took over the clamp principle of the GoldWing auxiliary shifter.

@ammpro
I had the same concern, but even the bolt is loose, the bracket cannot moving (may be a µ), also during shifting. It's encased in its position given from the mounted arms (possibly PharmBoy can confirm this). MarkT is right, if the bold is tightened exactly its an absolutely safe thing.

@Tfrank59
Good luck for your work on it, you can do this!
Nice 900 Drifter!

[Leatherman]

Count me in for two. 

[slider]

I want one..just let me know when and where to send money..thank you for a great idea

[knockdolian]

@knockdolian
This is the stabilizer for the 1500 GoldWing and not an OEM part. The Wings have the same problem, but this part will unfortunately NOT fit on our Valkyries! I tried this before I did the mod.

Thanks, Im aware of that. I was pointing out that the chap that makes these is still around. People were posting they hadn't heard from him ref this mod.