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Author Topic: Help, Valk will not stay started  (Read 1208 times)
SirBuck2u
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« on: January 29, 2015, 10:02:02 AM »

Help,

Guys, I have a 99 Std. Had some health issues that have prevented me from riding for the last 12 months. So, I went to crank the beast up and noticed the following.

1. Put the key in, put in on choke, hit the start button and the rpm gauge does not rise above 1100 rpm. Not matter how long I let it idle.

2. It goes dead when I take it off choke. Same thing happens over and over again.

I purchased a new YAUSA battery, because the one I had was dead.
I have purchased gas treatment from the bike shop and added it to gas tank.

Any help would be appreciated.
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2015, 10:06:08 AM »

Sound like the slow jets are clogged, your description is classic for that. Involves pulling the carbs, give them a good cleaning and generally replacing the slow jets. Some will use a sonic cleaner and some strong solution to clean the existing jets.
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2015, 10:15:58 AM »


Sounds like maybe you got a bunch of plugged up low jets.

If you do not have fresh fuel in the tank drain the old stuff out and put it in your mower or something else.

Add fresh fuel.  I'd put something like SeaFoam in the tank, the whole bottle.

Run it like 2 miles to get some fresh fuel with a dose of SeaFoam in the carbs.

Park the bike in as close to a straight up position as possible.

Let is soak overnight.

Tomorrow, start it and go for a short ride.

Check to see now if you have a smooth idle.

If not, repeat the 4 or 5 mile ride to run some gas through the slow jets.

OH, I FORGOT A STEP, keep your speed under 30 mph while doing the mixture thing.

Come back and let us know your results.

1 other last thing.

CHOKE:    Push it on, when it stops push it another 1/2" and now you have a full choke.    Black button you are pushing on should be pointed directly at the right handlebar and level.
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BigMac (SoCal)
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Moreno Valley, California


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« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2015, 03:05:57 PM »

I've done about 5 sets of carbs in the last year and it has been my experience that they will have to come out. Having sat for so long I really don't think using Sea foam or anything else will work.

Dave
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2015, 03:55:35 PM »

I've done about 5 sets of carbs in the last year and it has been my experience that they will have to come out. Having sat for so long I really don't think using Sea foam or anything else will work.

Dave

You is lucky Dave.     I have yet to pull a set of carbs to clean them out.     I pulled the carbs on MGM when I put my MC Cruise Control on.     It made putting in the Cable roller a lot easier.   My hands were too big to hold the wheel, the cables and get it mounted correctly.   Pulled the carb bank and it went in slicker than a greased pig.
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gordonv
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Richmond BC


« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2015, 05:36:01 PM »

I agree with the possible chock not fully one. It should still run above the 1100 rpm.

Also with regards to the 30 miles per hour, it's low RPM you want, so high gear, low speed, what ever that takes. This will feed fuel from the low speed jets, and clean them out if it can.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2015, 05:53:23 PM by gordonv » Logged

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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2015, 06:18:09 PM »

I agree with the possible chock not fully one. It should still run above the 1100 rpm.

Also with regards to the 30 miles per hour, it's low RPM you want, so high gear, low speed, what ever that takes. This will feed fuel from the low speed jets, and clean them out if it can.


OKAY, just keep the Rpms in the low 1,000's, no more than 1,600.     Otherwise you will be in the fast jet.
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SirBuck2u
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« Reply #7 on: February 02, 2015, 07:58:37 AM »

Guys

 cooldude Thnx for the feedback. First I am gonna try the SeaFoam approach. I will post my results. Hopefully this weekend. Now I am headed back to the Dr. for a neurological visit.
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Ricky-D
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South Carolina midlands


« Reply #8 on: February 02, 2015, 08:36:20 AM »

Seafoam is about the least effective of all the additives when

wanting to clear the carburetors of accumulations of crud.

B-12 and Techron seem to be the most effective for this operation.

Seafoam has other attributes which others don't but for cleaning

it's not a good first choice.

***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
SirBuck2u
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« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2015, 07:55:25 AM »

 :cooldude:thanks Ricky-D
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Six Guns
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Fort Worth, Texas


« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2015, 08:03:46 AM »

What RJ said.

Quote
CHOKE:    Push it on, when it stops push it another 1/2" and now you have a full choke.    Black button you are pushing on should be pointed directly at the right handlebar and level.

Try that first.   Smiley
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SirBuck2u
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« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2015, 01:43:08 PM »

What RJ said.

Quote
CHOKE:    Push it on, when it stops push it another 1/2" and now you have a full choke.    Black button you are pushing on should be pointed directly at the right handlebar and level.

Try that first.   Smiley

The choke is fully engaged. If I open the throttle (while choke is on) it shuts off . If I take the choke off it shuts off. Gonna try some carb cleaner and post my results this weekend.
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #12 on: February 06, 2015, 03:16:47 PM »

What RJ said.

Quote
CHOKE:    Push it on, when it stops push it another 1/2" and now you have a full choke.    Black button you are pushing on should be pointed directly at the right handlebar and level.

Try that first.   Smiley

The choke is fully engaged. If I open the throttle (while choke is on) it shuts off . If I take the choke off it shuts off. Gonna try some carb cleaner and post my results this weekend.

It is normal procedure if you open the throttle while the choke is on, it will die.

It sounds like you might not be getting full release of the choke.    Take the chrome side cover off of the linkage and make sure the mechanism is going all the way OFF.

If it is come back and we will try something else.
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Willow
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Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP

Olathe, KS


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« Reply #13 on: February 07, 2015, 10:39:35 AM »

Your low speeds are clogged.  The symptoms you describe, all of them, are consistent.  Some carb cleaner additive may help.  It's likely that a complete cleaning will require pulling and replacing carb parts.

Ricky-D is correct.  Seafoam is the bottom of the list for cleaning.  Techron or B-12 is nearer the top.  Use much more than the bottle instructions indicate suc as a whole bottle to one tankful.

Disregard a part of what R J told you.  3000 RPM is where the high speeds kick in.  1600 is much lower than needed.  Higher gears and keep it under 3K and you'll be fine.  If they're really clogged badly you may not get it to run well enough to ride it.  The fuel additive does need to pass through the carbs to do its best work.  If you can get some of it into the carbs sitting for a day or say with a strong dose of fuel additive may help a little.

Good luck to you.   
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #14 on: February 07, 2015, 12:44:35 PM »

I wouldn't be running that bike too much with your slow speed jet problem. After awhile you may blue some of your header pipes. After 12 months of sitting around, you should probably bite the bullet and pull your carb bank and clean things up. Techron or Chemtool B12 are not going to help much at this stage of the game. FWIW  Undecided
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Valkrocket
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Murrells Inlet, SC: formerly Plymouth, MA


« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2015, 03:04:35 AM »

ethanol claims another victim! had to replace all my slow jets last year. installed next size up, gas mileage suffered, but she really screams WOT.
 ethanol had  turned into shellac after my bike sat for 6 months in storage. now add techron to prevent future problems. rumor has it, they may go from 10% to 15% ethanol in the near future.  Undecided
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2015, 05:51:48 AM »

ethanol claims another victim! had to replace all my slow jets last year. installed next size up, gas mileage suffered, but she really screams WOT.
 ethanol had  turned into shellac after my bike sat for 6 months in storage. now add techron to prevent future problems. rumor has it, they may go from 10% to 15% ethanol in the near future.  Undecided

Sorry Valkrocket, but the slow jets DO NOT had diddly sheet on WOT.

Once you go past 3,000 R's you have gone into to the big jets.

Straight gasoline will do the same thing if it sets untreated.

Where did you hear the 10 to 15% in near future?

I'd like t read that article please.

Thanks RJ.
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #17 on: February 09, 2015, 06:18:29 AM »

This is a pretty recent update on the 10% versus 15% ethanol debacle.

http://blog.motorcycle.com/2014/04/21/industry-news/epa-recognizes-harmful-effects-ethanol-motorcycle-engines/

And this is a helpful chart in understanding the contributors to a/f flow in our carburetors versus throttle position:

« Last Edit: February 09, 2015, 06:20:54 AM by BonS » Logged

R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #18 on: February 09, 2015, 06:34:26 AM »


Thanks Brother, very interesting article.

They sure pound home on the 'catalytic converter'.   Only bikes I know with that attachment are California bikes.

MGM has used 10% stuff for over 243K miles, and knock on wood, so far no problem.

I dump a full can of SeaFoam in the tank when MGM goes into Hibernation and like I said, no problems so far.   Hibernation is 5 months, usually from November 1st to around the 1st of April.

I also dump a full can of SeaFoam in ever 6th tank.    Don't ask why, I do this, I just do and he seems to run real good all the time.
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Pete
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Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #19 on: February 09, 2015, 09:57:15 AM »

As bad as your carbs seem to be mixing cleaner and fuel will probably NEVER clean them.
The crude sets up like concrete and even directly soaking the jets in 100% cleaner ofter does not clean them. All of the cleaners need some help to break that crap up, vibration, agigation, scrubbing, etc.

You can try pouring direct cleaner thru the carbs, soaking and pouring again and again. Just be aware that can set up a situation where a float valve may not close properly setting up a fuel in the cylinder problem (hydro lock), so be careful and make sure after cleaning that all float valves close properly.

I echo all those that said it is time to pull the carbs and clean them as the best course of action.

NOTHING RUNS AS WELL AS LIKE CLEAN CARBS.
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SirBuck2u
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« Reply #20 on: February 09, 2015, 02:16:37 PM »

Well Guys,

My report....

I put a bottle of B12 in the tank with fresh gas. Put the full choke)on it never idle above 1100 rpms.
I pushed it back in the garage, put a brick under the side stand to keep it upright. Let the B12 marinate over night.

The next morning started with a full choke. it idled between 1600 rpms and 2000 rpms (an improvement). I could close the choke half way and it way stay started around 800 rpms. I could even up the throttle and it would not die. But...
I could not close the choke all the way, it would die also it would not start unless the choke was at least half way open.


Buck
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R J
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DS-0009 ...... # 173

Des Moines, IA


« Reply #21 on: February 09, 2015, 02:22:46 PM »


Give it another treatment only this time take it out and ride if for a few miles under 3,000 rpm's.   Ride enough to get the mixture into the carbs.    NO firkin Wide Opem Throttle doing this.  Then park it like you did.   Might take a couple or three treatments.  If that no workie, you is in for a carb bank pull and clean em out.    Probably have to change the slow jets in the process also.

PS:     You can adjust the idle screw.  It is a black knob on the right side between the 1st & 2nd carbs.     You might have to get on your knee to find it if you are not familiar with the adjustment.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2015, 02:27:03 PM by R J » Logged

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