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lljjmm
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« on: April 09, 2015, 04:29:24 PM » |
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Looking for any tips to make the install easier, rather than just hammering them on. Any lubrication needed? Should I drill holes to attach to the exhaust or will it be fine without?
By the feel of it, the fit will be tight. Thanks for any input.
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
Posts: 4146
Specimen #30838 DS #0233
Williamsburg, KY
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« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2015, 04:49:28 PM » |
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Haven't done mine yet but the shoptalk article states bar soap being used to grease it  |
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2015, 05:38:52 PM » |
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They go on tight, even after cleaning off all the carbon. What you do is put a soft piece of pine one or two by over the ends and rap them on with a rubber mallet. Course I have flat cuts, not slashers. Marked the wood, but not the tips. I used a thin cardboard tube/tape template to copy the three hole locations on the cans (punch thru with nail set), moved them to the tips, marked them, dimpled the marks gently with a punch (or your bit will walk), drilled them out first with a new/sharp 1/8" bit, then finished with a 1/4" bit (I think that's the right size, not certain.... probably metric, but a 1/4 is right there). Once done, and rapping them on so tightly, I decided it was overkill to do all three holes/bolts. Two is plenty and even one (on the inside, to hide it) would probably be fine as long as you have a nice tight fush slip fit when bolted on. But at least one should be considered necessary; no matter how tight, I can see hitting enough hard bumps and temperature changes that one might come off without at least one bolt to hold them on. (And that could hurt someone in a group ride) Despite your best efforts, should you find you have not matched the holes in the can and tip exactly for a tight flush fit, all you need to do is elongate/oval (9 to 3 o'clock) the hole in the tip slightly; the bolt head will cover it completely, esp on the inside. The black needs cleaned up. I don't remember using lube, but soap would be perfect.  |
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« Last Edit: April 09, 2015, 05:50:08 PM by Jess from VA »
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Louis Durocher
Member
Posts: 86
'99 Interstate
Montreal,Canada
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« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2015, 07:27:27 PM » |
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I did the same thing but with one hole. The one on the piggies. Real easy. 45 min job and looks nice
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 Have a safe ride |
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Jopson
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« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2015, 08:01:34 PM » |
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They go on tight, even after cleaning off all the carbon. What you do is put a soft piece of pine one or two by over the ends and rap them on with a rubber mallet. Course I have flat cuts, not slashers. Marked the wood, but not the tips. I used a thin cardboard tube/tape template to copy the three hole locations on the cans (punch thru with nail set), moved them to the tips, marked them, dimpled the marks gently with a punch (or your bit will walk), drilled them out first with a new/sharp 1/8" bit, then finished with a 1/4" bit (I think that's the right size, not certain.... probably metric, but a 1/4 is right there). Once done, and rapping them on so tightly, I decided it was overkill to do all three holes/bolts. Two is plenty and even one (on the inside, to hide it) would probably be fine as long as you have a nice tight fush slip fit when bolted on. But at least one should be considered necessary; no matter how tight, I can see hitting enough hard bumps and temperature changes that one might come off without at least one bolt to hold them on. (And that could hurt someone in a group ride) Despite your best efforts, should you find you have not matched the holes in the can and tip exactly for a tight flush fit, all you need to do is elongate/oval (9 to 3 o'clock) the hole in the tip slightly; the bolt head will cover it completely, esp on the inside. The black needs cleaned up. I don't remember using lube, but soap would be perfect. +1 Everything Jess said |
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BF
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« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2015, 09:02:16 PM » |
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Transfering the holes with blue painters tape is how I did it.
As Jess said, if you miss align a hole, a dremel tool works great to elongate the hole a tad.
Bottom line.....measure twice (or a whole bunch of times), cut (drill) once.
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to  |
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Kunkies
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« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2015, 04:17:58 AM » |
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I "fence post" pounded my truck stacks over my stock mufflers. Placed a moving blanket on the floor, sanded the muffler to make it smooth, rubbed on a film of [Dawn] dish soap , and pounded away, after about 10 whacks they were on. Done.
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
Posts: 4146
Specimen #30838 DS #0233
Williamsburg, KY
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« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2015, 04:26:54 AM » |
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We should clarify what size stacks everyone pounded on with your experience. Original poster wants info for 18 inch. Some may be talking about full stacks.
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R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2015, 05:15:57 AM » |
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On the glass pack mod stock pipes I pounded on the turndowns. Went on very easy with bar soap as a lube material. I missed my hole on the one I planned on using. Tried to take it off to get a better alignment to get a better shot at the hole. Couldn't get it to move one way or the other, so I just pounded the other side on. When I put the Viking pipes on, those extensions had not moved. So I decided a screw to hold it was NOT needed. Just make sure you have the tip aligned correctly. One of mine was rolled out at the bottom.  If you look under his left arm, the bottom of the tip is pretty straight down. Yes, I wasn't paying attention when I pounded it on with that 2X6 piece of Oak. |
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44 Harley ServiCar   |
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BradValk48237
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« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2015, 08:56:25 AM » |
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Just to clarify... Are you just doing the 18" add ons?????
If so, there is really nothing to do except match the holes on the old tips... then slip on and bolt em down... no "Pounding' necessary .... no cutting needed... I have them on mine. Airflo....
The Pounding, Grinding and Soaping comes in when you are putting on the 48" total covers.. that replace the tips and the stock cover.... Those have to have special notches cut in to clear the hanger/mounts to slip/shove/pound them on and need welds ground down (my next project)
Hope that helps avoid any confusion or extra work...
Brad
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #10 on: April 10, 2015, 10:07:07 AM » |
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Brad, no Air Flow 18" tips I know of just slid on. Though yes the full size do take more work.
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lljjmm
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« Reply #11 on: April 10, 2015, 10:25:59 AM » |
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Just putting on the 18" extensions, before I got into it was just looking for potential issues that may arise and degree of difficulty of installing them. Mine are from Air Flow, but are starting out tight, but then again I like things tight. Thanks for all the info, I guess I am good to go.
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h13man
Member
Posts: 1765
To everything there is an exception.
Indiana NW Central Flatlands
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« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2015, 06:16:22 PM » |
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I just got done making a set of 18 ga. 13" straight slashcuts. I duplicated the OEM design except the "piggy" hole because mine have been cut. Painted them 1000 degree black and prebaked them. Took them on a 120 mi. ride today and there no more "tinny" sound but momma said I have to get them chromed! Going to talk to platers tomorrow.  |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2015, 05:36:53 AM » |
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Just putting on the 18" extensions, before I got into it was just looking for potential issues that may arise and degree of difficulty of installing them. Mine are from Air Flow, but are starting out tight, but then again I like things tight. Thanks for all the info, I guess I am good to go.
I like things tight also  |
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