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Magellon
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« on: April 28, 2015, 08:21:55 PM » |
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After a ride the other day with the engine off when i was in neutral in the garage rolling it back and forth to re-position the bike I heard a noise from the rear wheel or drive train. It sounded like teeth gears clicking. I lifted the bike off the ground and spun the wheel and the noise was quieter and not heard every time I spun the wheel. Its been just under 10k since i put the taxi tire on so I thought I should pull it down lube the p cup and the other items. Everything looks great even the u-joint, no play in the joint can be detect but noticed something on one of the u-joint bearing caps. 3 of them do NOT spin inside the u-joint yoke but 1 spins in the yoke but not inside the joint. Here is a little video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y54Wh2lES18I dont have another u-joint to compare it too, is this normal or does it look like the one that is spinning inside the yoke may be seized. As always all help is appreciated. Paul |
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Savago
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« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2015, 10:48:07 PM » |
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Paul
The video is marked as private.
Savago
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da prez
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« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2015, 04:53:09 AM » |
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The caps should be fixed inside the U-joint (frame). If the bearing caps move inside , they are loose. The center of the U-joint cross is hardened steel , the cups have needle bearings , and the caps are the bearing (cup). Caps stationary ,cross moves , needle bearings work. For a U-joint to work , there has to be a flex or movement in the drive shaft. The U-joint will last until you get out in the middle of nowhere and wish I would have changed it.
da prez
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Louis Durocher
Member
Posts: 86
'99 Interstate
Montreal,Canada
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« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2015, 05:07:50 AM » |
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I had the same problem, this isn't normal. Changed mine and everything ok.
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 Have a safe ride |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2015, 05:11:23 AM » |
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I would first suspect a wheel bearing failure (left rear probably) If you put the bike back on the lift try to move the bottom of the rear wheel side to side. Any (even minute) movement = bad wheel bearing, But, you have to take it all apart anyways, so you should find out soon enough.
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Magellon
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« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2015, 06:15:26 AM » |
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Unlocked the video. Thanks for the help. I will look at the wheel bearings also.
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2015, 05:57:49 PM » |
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Your u joint is toast. There should be about .0015 press fit of the cup into the yoke. Yours moving around means the yoke has enlarged and is no longer gripping the cup. The only reason it has not slung the cup out is because the yoke is staked. Once you take the ujoint apart you will find the needle bearings in that cup are probably toast. And there is NOT a suitable ujoint that can be used to keep your yokes and press in a new joint.....they are all undersized for a proper press fit. The only coupling that is the correct size is the one used by honda and it is not available anywhere.....all others are undersize by at least .001....get a new one.
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Savago
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« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2015, 10:02:21 PM » |
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Just out of curiosity... but should a 32K miles u-joint go bad? I expected them to last 100K or more at least.
Savago
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hoosier jaybird
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« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2015, 04:06:23 AM » |
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Mine went bad at 36k. One bearing cap spun and when dismantled it was dry and rusty with groves in the journal. A slight catch was felt when flexing the joint.
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hoosier jaybird
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« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2015, 04:11:22 AM » |
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I found a machine shop that machined the yokes to accept a joint cross for a Datsun pick up that works in there. Now it's rebuildable. Past posts fell how.
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Willow
Administrator
Member
Posts: 16632
Excessive comfort breeds weakness. PttP
Olathe, KS
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« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2015, 01:35:16 PM » |
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Just out of curiosity... but should a 32K miles u-joint go bad? I expected them to last 100K or more at least. Interestingly reports of u-joint failures don't seem to correlate in any way to miles. My suspicion is that it has to do with water getting into places it shouldn't and perhaps another factor or two. |
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Daniel Meyer
Member
Posts: 5493
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2015, 01:39:56 PM » |
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Yep, it's toast. It will go fast. Just out of curiosity... but should a 32K miles u-joint go bad? I expected them to last 100K or more at least. Interestingly reports of u-joint failures don't seem to correlate in any way to miles. My suspicion is that it has to do with water getting into places it shouldn't and perhaps another factor or two. Not to mention the youngest of them (that have not been replaced) is 12ish years old...years can be as tough as miles on...stuff... *snap*crackle*pop*gahhh* Sorry...just stretched a bit...  |
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer  |
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2015, 03:45:19 PM » |
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I found a machine shop that machined the yokes to accept a joint cross for a Datsun pick up that works in there. Now it's rebuildable. Past posts fell how.
Any details on what he did.....in my travels on this subject, I could not find a satisfactory coupling to use. Machining the yoke out to the next available larger cup size (IMHO) made the ears too thin and I was afraid of one splitting during enthusiastic riding.....  |
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RainMaker
Member
Posts: 6626
VRCC#24130 - VRCCDS#0117 - IBA#48473
Arlington, TX
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« Reply #13 on: May 01, 2015, 06:43:58 AM » |
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Free Pass (Dick Brittian) is running a rebuildable u-joint/yoke on his Interstate and has a bunch of miles on it, mostly riding 2 up. I got one from him and have yet to use it, but it will go in when the current one fails. It uses a standard u-joint available at almost any auto parts store and has grease fittings as well. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,30570.0.html |
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 2005 BMW R1200 GS 2000 Valkyrie Interstate 1998 Valkyrie Tourer 1981 GL1100I GoldWing 1972 CB500K1 |
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Rio Wil
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« Reply #14 on: May 01, 2015, 07:25:42 PM » |
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I am aware of Dicks efforts in this project. I am just not happy that the cups on that coupling used in that rebuild is basically .001 underside for a proper press fit into the yoke ears. IMHO, this will allow the cups to begin to spin in the ears and cause early failure. The coupling is held in place by inside retaining clips, but that does not take take of the loose cups. I gave up on find the correct part.....
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xman
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« Reply #15 on: May 02, 2015, 05:26:30 PM » |
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A few years ago the u joints were hard to come by. Has that all been resolved? This winter I'm going to pull mine out for the first time. I want to have a new one ready to go in. Where's the best place to get one?
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #16 on: May 03, 2015, 06:06:41 PM » |
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Before Honda lost or fired their supplier a few years ago, they were around $65. They have a new supplier now, but the price is up. #1 (Joint, Yoke) 40200-MZ0-A00 $120.86 http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2f2bf870023420a31b1c/swingarmIf yours is not FUBAR it is probably fine, but having a spare is a good idea. Get a #8 Boot too. 52104-MZ0-A40 $12.18 |
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« Last Edit: May 03, 2015, 06:09:20 PM by Jess from VA »
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xman
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« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2015, 07:08:41 PM » |
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Thanks for the information Jess
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Magellon
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« Reply #18 on: May 03, 2015, 10:35:01 PM » |
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Received my New replacement u-joint, comparing the 2 the new feels tighter and none of the caps are spinning in the yoke. I like the idea of a serviceable u-joint, just grease it when you grease diff gears and pinion cup every 10k.
Thanks for all the input.
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