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Author Topic: Rebuild carbs and fluid changes  (Read 940 times)
PAPA Z
Member
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Posts: 4


UTAH


« on: May 19, 2015, 11:13:24 AM »

So, I'm a new VRCC guy.  I’ve been riding Hondas since 1986, but I bought my first Valkyrie last fall.  It would not idle, and would just die.  Also, it needed a good going through, so I did a lot of reading on this site, and other research.  I do most mechanic work on my cars, but have not done any motorcycle work before.  So I ended up doing the following:

I removed, and thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt all of the carbs.  I went with #38 pilot jets, #105 main jets, and set the mixture screws out to 2 full turns.  By the way, all those hoses were a major pain!  tickedoff  I still wasn’t sure if I put things back right.  But last week I put it all back together, and it fired up!!!  Holy crap!  I was a little surprised, but extremely proud and excited that I did it right I guess.

I also replaced all of the fluids:  Changed the rear drive oil, replaced the coolant, changed the front and rear brake fluid, clutch fluid, and the engine oil.  After reading the many posts, I ended up using a good filter, and filling it with the Rotella T6 Synthetic oil. 

Any thoughts?

Also, I have one question.  With going with the synthetic oil, at what mileage should I plan on changing oil?  Thanks for all of the posts, and the incredible amount of information.
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2015, 11:39:14 AM »

On the synthetic oil change interval-totally lost track and did 9000+ miles on a change and no adverse effects. I'm coming up on 103000 miles on the odometer on mine. You didn't mention greasing the splines or the 3 O-rings that go with spline service. And pulling the plate that covers the drive rubbers and inspect those-should ne snug NOT loose. AND 20/20 hindsight-you already had the tank off MAYBE should have desmogged while you had that all opened up. Check the battery ground connection at the point it connects to the engine area-easy to trace-for cleanliness and snugness Check both terminals at battery. Did you look at the exposed portion of the pistons in the disc brake calipers? Should be nice and shiny chrome looking-NOT crusty and discolored. Research shop ta;lk and known Valkyrie problems and suggested repairs and fixes all here on tis website. Oh-and welcome to the insanity that are a lot of us-e included!  2funny Again-Welcome from the Ozarks. Look up Inzane in June-lotsa folks on this board-again including me-wil be in Spearfish S D starting June 7. RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
F6BANGER
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Posts: 835


Albuquerque NM


« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2015, 04:51:12 PM »

I go 10k on fully synthetic but change the filter at 5k and top her off. Honda says 8k on dino oil.
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2015, 05:26:05 AM »

Welcome to the world of Valkyrie PAPAZ,,   Check all the things that old2soon mentioned, pay particular attention to the final drive splines and driven flange lubrication (use Moly), also, pull the final drive and check the condition of pinion cup and driveline lubrication as these parts tend to dry out and fail in a big way. Your bike can go 300K+ with attention to details....   Good job on the carburetors.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
PAPA Z
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Posts: 4


UTAH


« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2015, 07:16:35 PM »

Thanks for your input and suggestions.  I don't know specifically what parts you're talking about right now, but I will research and find out.  I am registered for the InZane in SD in a couple of weeks, and really looking forward to it.  Thanks again.
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PAPA Z
Member
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Posts: 4


UTAH


« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2015, 07:58:06 PM »

This is what I was looking for.
www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx
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Pappy!
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Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2015, 08:34:30 PM »

Yep! Don't leave home without it so to speak!
Order up the O-rings and Moly and go for it. Not a hard job and a lot of peace of mind afterward knowing it is all good to go in there.
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PAPA Z
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Posts: 4


UTAH


« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2015, 08:34:54 PM »

Thanks so much for the heads up on checking the final drive. I pulled everything off today, and found that the drive shaft looked really good, still had a lot of grease around the ends. However, the flange attached to the rear wheel was basically dry, the grease was hardened up, and there were signs of rust. I also found where each of the teeth was starting to wear on the one side. So I am really glad that I caught this in time, before more damage has been done. Thanks againT
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30466


No VA


« Reply #8 on: May 23, 2015, 09:01:09 PM »

Welcome.

Here's your Orings.  http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm
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pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2015, 09:04:10 PM »

Glad to hear you researched the subject (as the help was not detailed enough) and got in there before the damage got any worse PAPA Z,,, load it up with high % moly and you will be good to go.  Good work.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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