Bike is completely Dead

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Not my Valkyrie though, my Kawasaki Eliminator. Cruising to an appt the other day; got off the main road and hit my first red light. Soon as I stopped the bike started losing idle and stalled. Tried to restart several times, it cranked but wouldnt fire. Let it sit and the longer it sat the more dead it got. Got picked up and got the bike home. Now it has nothing as if the battery was removed from the bike. I checked the battery and put it on a charger and its good. Absolutely nothing goes on. What makes it worse is I am clueless with electrical. Anyone in Jersey know what they are doing? Suggestions?

[Michvalk]

Have you checked the fuzes? It sounds like battery. Could have a short. I would first check the fuzes, and if good, I would haul the battery to a car parts place and have the battery load tested. I can't think of anything else that would cause those symptoms, unless Kaw has some problem with ignition that I have never heard of

[Bagger John - #3785]

Look at the grounding cable from battery to engine/frame first. Many Kawis (including my late-model Concours 14s) are noted for theirs mysteriously wiggling loose over time.

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Battery is fully charged. I checked a few fuses but didnt find the main yet. Will check on the grounding cable. Thanks Guys.

[gordonv]

Electric fuel pump? No gas, no start. Smell gas with all that cranking?

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Gas is good and I dont smell any. Had the battery checked at two auto stores today and its fine.
Grounding cable is also good to go.

[Gryphon Rider]

So, you've put the fully charged battery in and tried to start it and what happened?  If it didn't spin the engine well, you jumped it from a non-running car and what happened? Or the bike started and you have what voltage running at 2000 (or so) RPM compared to what voltage when the bike was off?

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Fully charged batter in the bike and I get zero. Not a light or a sound. Like there is no battery in the bike. I didnt try and jump it.

[Gryphon Rider]

If absolutely nothing, first check your 30A main fuse on top of the starter relay, then the far ends of both battery cables should be disconnected, the connections cleaned up with sandpaper, then reconnected.

The starter relay and 30A fuse is immediately left of the fuse block, top photo.

[Bambam650]

This happened to me recently.  It turned out it was a bad connection at the main connector behind the side panel.  This is the rubber thingy located between the main fuse and accessory fuse box shown in the first photo above.  I disconnected, cleaned, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, and reconnected it and all was well again.

BTW RD, where did you get those aftermarket valve covers?

[Ricky-D]

Sounds to me that the most likely culprit is a bad key switch.

***

[da prez]

connect the battery positive to the starter post with a jumper . If it spins , you know it is in the starting circuit. It narrows your search. 

                                                           da prez

[Bagger John - #3785]

Sounds to me that the most likely culprit is a bad key switch.

***

At this point I would agree.

[Gryphon Rider]

Sounds to me that the most likely culprit is a bad key switch.

***

At this point I would agree.

If some of the circuits worked but not others, I would agree. I would only assume the ignition switch if the red wire between the starter relay and the ignition switch had power.

[BF]

This happened to me recently.  It turned out it was a bad connection at the main connector behind the side panel.  This is the rubber thingy located between the main fuse and accessory fuse box shown in the first photo above.  I disconnected, cleaned, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, and reconnected it and all was well again.

BTW RD, where did you get those aftermarket valve covers?

I'd like to know too.  Just where does one find those blacked out 1500 valve covers?

[Bagger John - #3785]

This happened to me recently.  It turned out it was a bad connection at the main connector behind the side panel.  This is the rubber thingy located between the main fuse and accessory fuse box shown in the first photo above.  I disconnected, cleaned, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, and reconnected it and all was well again.

BTW RD, where did you get those aftermarket valve covers?

I'd like to know too.  Just where does one find those blacked out 1500 valve covers?

One makes them from a set of brushed aluminum valve covers. I asked the OP about this, found out they were powdercoated and off to eBay I went. Managed to snag a set which will require a bit of cleanup - perfect for this project.

I don't know if the "1500" covers are an Add-On or Big Bike Parts offering...and I strongly suspect they aren't OEM Honda. During my travels to the area swap meets this summer I'll keep an eye out for them for anyone who wants a set.

[salty1]

This happened to me recently.  It turned out it was a bad connection at the main connector behind the side panel.  This is the rubber thingy located between the main fuse and accessory fuse box shown in the first photo above.  I disconnected, cleaned, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, and reconnected it and all was well again.

BTW RD, where did you get those aftermarket valve covers?

I'd like to know too.  Just where does one find those blacked out 1500 valve covers?

Aren't those GW covers that we're powder coated.?

[Bambam650]

One makes them from a set of brushed aluminum valve covers. I asked the OP about this, found out they were powder coated and off to eBay I went. Managed to snag a set which will require a bit of cleanup - perfect for this project.

Are the brushed aluminum covers you referenced and the ones you bought off of ebay made for a Valkyrie or a GW?

........and my apologies for hijacking this thread.

[salty1]

This happened to me recently.  It turned out it was a bad connection at the main connector behind the side panel.  This is the rubber thingy located between the main fuse and accessory fuse box shown in the first photo above.  I disconnected, cleaned, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, and reconnected it and all was well again.

BTW RD, where did you get those aftermarket valve covers?

I'd like to know too.  Just where does one find those blacked out 1500 valve covers?

Aren't those GW covers that we're powder coated.?

[Bagger John - #3785]

One makes them from a set of brushed aluminum valve covers. I asked the OP about this, found out they were powder coated and off to eBay I went. Managed to snag a set which will require a bit of cleanup - perfect for this project.

Are the brushed aluminum covers you referenced and the ones you bought off of ebay made for a Valkyrie or a GW?

........and my apologies for hijacking this thread.

Gold Wing, although AFAIK the cover geometry is identical across the entire GL1500 line.

Back to the thread at hand: Which model Eliminator (ZL250, 600, 900 or 1000) do you have, and is there an online electrical diagram that one or more of us can take a look at?

[pocobubba]

Check the kill switch

[Bighead]

One makes them from a set of brushed aluminum valve covers. I asked the OP about this, found out they were powder coated and off to eBay I went. Managed to snag a set which will require a bit of cleanup - perfect for this project.

Are the brushed aluminum covers you referenced and the ones you bought off of ebay made for a Valkyrie or a GW?

........and my apologies for hijacking this thread.

Don't matter it is the same engine.

[98valk]

One makes them from a set of brushed aluminum valve covers. I asked the OP about this, found out they were powder coated and off to eBay I went. Managed to snag a set which will require a bit of cleanup - perfect for this project.

Are the brushed aluminum covers you referenced and the ones you bought off of ebay made for a Valkyrie or a GW?

........and my apologies for hijacking this thread.

Don't matter it is the same engine.

just to add, any gold wing GL1500 valve cover uses different length bolts than the valkyire covers.

[Gryphon Rider]

Check the kill switch

If it were the kill switch other stuff like lights would work.

[98valk]

This happened to me recently.  It turned out it was a bad connection at the main connector behind the side panel.  This is the rubber thingy located between the main fuse and accessory fuse box shown in the first photo above.  I disconnected, cleaned, put some dielectric grease on the terminals, and reconnected it and all was well again.

BTW RD, where did you get those aftermarket valve covers?

I'd like to know too.  Just where does one find those blacked out 1500 valve covers?

One makes them from a set of brushed aluminum valve covers. I asked the OP about this, found out they were powdercoated and off to eBay I went. Managed to snag a set which will require a bit of cleanup - perfect for this project.

I don't know if the "1500" covers are an Add-On or Big Bike Parts offering...and I strongly suspect they aren't OEM Honda. During my travels to the area swap meets this summer I'll keep an eye out for them for anyone who wants a set.

they are OEM, last few yrs of the GW came that way. the last yr of the GW they came chromed, $207 ea at procaliber
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c1e3ef870023420a2f33d/cylinder-head-cover

the brushed aluminum ones will polish up almost like chrome. picked up a set off ebay a few yrs ago, someday I need to install them. 

[98valk]

ck the coils for cracks if its not the ignition switch.

[desertrefugee]

If you're lucky enough to get any useful info from this thread, my hat is off to you.  If you need valve covers for your flat six, you're in luck.  Likewise, if you're looking to chase your tail.

I have had two ZL900's but never suffered from the problem you describe.  However, your description provides some telling clues.  It was running, but died.  It had enough juice to crank over the motor for a while, but stopped.  Now, even with a charged battery, you have nothing.  And you have zero lights or other sign of life.

A fully dead bike is, arguably, one of the easiest things to isolate the fault on.  Unless the harness has suffered a meltdown, you're either going to have a poor ground, blown main fuse, or a compromised connection at the main 12V terminal junction.

Lacking any of that, I can tell you that it is not uncommon for starters in the ZX/ZL/ZG to go south and ground out.  This will quickly deplete a battery and, with burnt coils, not respond to solenoid voltage.  Does not explain your lack of all power elsewhere.  Might have collateral damage.  

Someone suggested above to apply power directly to the starter (or the starter side of the solenoid).  Do that.  If the starter turns the motor over, look for issues above.

Here's my recently-departed ZL900.  (Please don't ask me what happened to it...<sniff>)

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions on the electrical issue on my Kawi. Its a 1985 Eliminato 900 but has a 2005 ZRX1200 motor in it; just to make things more confusing.
Yes, the valve covers were off of a Goldwing and crinkle powercoated black. Perfect fit.

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

If you're lucky enough to get any useful info from this thread, my hat is off to you.  If you need valve covers for your flat six, you're in luck.  Likewise, if you're looking to chase your tail.

I have had two ZL900's but never suffered from the problem you describe.  However, your description provides some telling clues.  It was running, but died.  It had enough juice to crank over the motor for a while, but stopped.  Now, even with a charged battery, you have nothing.  And you have zero lights or other sign of life.

A fully dead bike is, arguably, one of the easiest things to isolate the fault on.  Unless the harness has suffered a meltdown, you're either going to have a poor ground, blown main fuse, or a compromised connection at the main 12V terminal junction.

Lacking any of that, I can tell you that it is not uncommon for starters in the ZX/ZL/ZG to go south and ground out.  This will quickly deplete a battery and, with burnt coils, not respond to solenoid voltage.  Does not explain your lack of all power elsewhere.  Might have collateral damage.  

Someone suggested above to apply power directly to the starter (or the starter side of the solenoid).  Do that.  If the starter turns the motor over, look for issues above.

Here's my recently-departed ZL900.  (Please don't ask me what happened to it...<sniff>)


Nice Eliminator Desert Ref. Looks like a similar look to mine.

[desertrefugee]

Yeah.  Minus the stretch, the 1200 and the 10.60.   I never broke into the 10s on either of mine.  The first which I bought new in Florida stayed pretty much stock.  The one above just had a 4 degree advance, Dyna ignition, jets and the D&D.  11.30's was the best it ever did.

 

You have a really wicked ZL there. 

[Attic Rat]

I am not trying to hijack this but the covers are OEM Goldwing around the year 2000 they only made them for about 3 years.They were considered the ugly covers on the Goldwing. . Be sure and get the bolts that go with it  because they are different from the Valkyrie. Once you find a set get them powder coated I use a wrinkle called tuxedo. I have had a set on my Valkyrie since 1988.

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

I am not trying to hijack this but the covers are OEM Goldwing around the year 2000 they only made them for about 3 years.They were considered the ugly covers on the Goldwing. . Be sure and get the bolts that go with it  because they are different from the Valkyrie. Once you find a set get them powder coated I use a wrinkle called tuxedo. I have had a set on my Valkyrie since 1988.

Wow, You had a set 12 years before they produced them    Just having some fun with ya  

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Okay so I got to the main fuse and the 30a fuse was toast. Replaced it and all power comes on. But.....The fan behind the radiator sounds like its dying. Is it Possible that it set off the fuse going?

[Ramie]

Okay so I got to the main fuse and the 30a fuse was toast. Replaced it and all power comes on. But.....The fan behind the radiator sounds like its dying. Is it Possible that it set off the fuse going?

It could if the fan was trying to run while starter was turning, you would think the fan fuse would blow if it was that bad.

[Michvalk]

Did the bike start, and then the fan started? Or does the fan run without the bike running. You could have a fan going bad, or the switch that runs it, and, yes the fan could cause the main fuze to blow. Or there could be another problem that is making the fan sound like that. I would say, at this point, you need someone with electrical experience

[RUDE DOG - Steelers]

Yes, the fan fires up as soon as the ignition is turned on. It basically runs all the time.

[desertrefugee]

Yes, the fan fires up as soon as the ignition is turned on. It basically runs all the time.

Hmm. Not sure what might have been done to the harness during the transplant, but the ZL900 fan is one of those that is powered through a funky control circuit with a couple of relays and the temperature sensor - which by-pass the main switch.  It will often run for a while after the switch is off and you're walking away.  Could be that your thermal switch is bad...but that should not blow the fuse in and of itself.

If it continues to blow the main, you might want to start isolating circuits one by one.  A noisy fan isn't necessarily drawing high current.  You'll have to do some detective work.

[gordonv]

I would think that there is nothing out there that should run while the engine is cranking. Then also run when the engine is cold.

I know there are fans out there that run/continue to run after the engine is shut off. Sounds like someone needs to start the forums for your bike and see if it is a know problem or not, and get some more specific data. I'm sure we could help, but everything would need to be inspected/researched.