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Author Topic: Preparing my 99 IS Trike for Digi Sync treatment  (Read 1392 times)
58Woody
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Posts: 71


Chanhassen , Mn.


« on: June 26, 2015, 04:15:22 AM »

Had to replace vacuum lines. How important is it to clamp them to the ports ?
I also would like to simplify my gas valve for the next time. Mine has #6 vacuum line going to it. Recommendations ?

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da prez
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Posts: 4361

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2015, 06:14:44 AM »

 The small spring clamps are a good idea as engine temperature will cause the hoses to soften. Some say that the vacuum will hold them on. I hope you used hoses marked for vacuum. There is a difference in hose quality. The small price for the good hose is very minor compared to the problems it could cause.
  The fuel vacuum line can be hooked to any port. I run mine off the right rear , number five as it is closer and easier to get to.
  You do not need a mityvac to pull the fuel valve open. Just suck on it and pinch it off or put a "T"in the vacuum line after warming the engine. When I set up the sync , I set it up to match the engine.
  The right side of the sync is set up to the engine configuration.   1-3-5 on the right and 2-4-6 on the left. Then you know that base line is middle right. Follow the instructions that came with it.
  The first time will go easy enough. Just take your time.

                                                     da prez
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2015, 06:41:26 AM »

I agree with everything DaPrez says except for using a tee in the line to keep your petcock turned on during synching. The tee will cause an error with the readings on that channel. It was just determined yesterday that a tee is not a good plan. You can read about it here http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,79146.0.html. Either pinch your petcock line while a vacuum is present or simply disconnect it and sync while the engine still has fuel. If your engine begins to be starved for fuel then stop synching for a moment and reconnect your petcock vacuum line for a few moments to re-fuel your carburetors.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2015, 07:10:46 AM »

I would listen to Bon on this  Smiley I'm no master mechanic by any means (hence the name meathead). I've synched Honda 4 cyl. , Yamaha twins and triples. This is so much easier and especially quicker that it was no problem using just the gas in my he carbs. Even if you do you don't have to unhook everything just the +6 hose.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #4 on: June 26, 2015, 07:30:53 AM »

Had to replace vacuum lines. How important is it to clamp them to the ports ?
I also would like to simplify my gas valve for the next time. Mine has #6 vacuum line going to it. Recommendations ?
I'm not sure what you mean by "simplify my gas valve", but if you mean removing the vacuum function when the vacuum function has been working fine, I would not recommend it.  The vacuum (or should I say "no vacuum") shut-off is one more barrier to prevent hydro-lock.  If the vacuum diaphragm fails and you need to modify the valve to get running, fine, but before that there is no advantage and one possibly huge disadvantage.
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58Woody
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Posts: 71


Chanhassen , Mn.


« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2015, 01:35:39 PM »



Simplify my gas ......."petcock" oops. Thinking about replacing it. Its not more than 2 years old.
Read the pingel  valve thread. Why do these have a vacuum line anyhow ?

Bought New vacuum line for 3 and 4. Also for the petcock to #6. Using the new super duper caps for the rest.

Can I sync #6 last, leaving the petcock vacuum line hooked up til then ?

I like the idea of putting that line on another port.
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2015, 01:48:35 PM »

Why do these have a vacuum line anyhow ?
Because the petcock then turns itself off with the engine. This avoids the possibility of hydro lock. Sometimes spelled hydrolock. It's where a cylinder fills up with gasoline and breaks starter gears when you try to start your engine. If you have a non-vacuum petcock then you have to manually turn it off and on. Not that hard as many have always done that with other motorcycles. Many have added a 12 volt solenoid valve (a Dan-Marc), along with a manual petcock, to do it with the key automatically.

Can I sync #6 last, leaving the petcock vacuum line hooked up til then ?
Yes you can. Good strategy.
« Last Edit: June 26, 2015, 01:50:15 PM by BonS » Logged

58Woody
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Posts: 71


Chanhassen , Mn.


« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2015, 03:03:17 PM »

Nice.  

Bon,
 
  Should I plug the vac hose on the Digi ( for #6) while I am doing that ?
 Also those white twist caps that came with my kit.....What are they for?  uglystupid2


Could always route the petcock hose to #5 after 5 is done.

P.S.
 
How did you/can I do this. Wow.
I have been looking in all the wrong places.

Copy and paste please       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7GbUm9LJLU
« Last Edit: June 26, 2015, 06:30:01 PM by 58Woody » Logged

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BonS
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Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2015, 04:26:58 PM »

Should I plug the vac hose on the Digi ( for #6) while I am doing that ?

There's no need to plug an unused channel (vac hose) on the Digi Sync while you're using it.

Also those white twist cacs that came with my kit.....What are they for?  uglystupid2

They can be used to plug the short hoses on the Digi Sync while it's in storage. Since you may store it out in the open in your shop or garage junk, dust, crud and just plain stuff may fall into the open ends and eventually plug up the ports deep down inside those short hoses. If you have a storage tub then there's no need to worry about it.

Could always route the petcock hose to #5 after 5 is done.

Yes you can but it's probably less hassle and confusing to just leave #5 on there and attach #6. You don't want to forget to cap off #5 while doing that either.

P.S.
 
How did you/can I do this. Wow.
I have been looking in all the wrong places.

Copy and paste please       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7GbUm9LJLU


This?



I did that years ago. It's a combination of red and amber LED's in each velocity stack. Each led is  self-blinking. I've never had a problem with them even through many bike washes, rain storms and intense heat. It was a lot, lot, lot of labor that I don't care to repeat. However, I have been thinking about upgrading it to follow the engine rpm. But, so far I haven't found the time!
« Last Edit: June 26, 2015, 04:33:30 PM by BonS » Logged

58Woody
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Posts: 71


Chanhassen , Mn.


« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2015, 06:40:34 PM »

Thank you sooooooooo much Bon.

I really want to find those lights. I have already wired in power and a switch.


Just finished putting the tank on and fired her up. First thing in the morning I will be using Digi Sync .

God Bless you.
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da prez
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Posts: 4361

. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #10 on: June 26, 2015, 07:33:38 PM »

  Bon , thank you for the update on the vacuum "T".I had not read anything about the "T" since our discussion about it at IZ15. I replied as a user as to how easy the sinc is to use.

                                   da prez
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BonS
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Posts: 2198


Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2015, 07:46:27 PM »

  Bon , thank you for the update on the vacuum "T".I had not read anything about the "T" since our discussion about it at IZ15. I replied as a user as to how easy the sinc is to use.

                                   da prez
No problem at all! This has been a fast moving evolution of knowledge and together we're evolving!
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