serker
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« on: July 19, 2015, 07:47:12 AM » |
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'99 valk 1500cf. New symptom started this spring. If the bike is left for a couple of days, using turn signals has a delay before they light up.
To be clear, I'm doing the following. After starting the bike, I hit left signal, and wait between 10-20 seconds before it begins to light and blink. Switch to right, wait another 10-20 seconds, same thing.
Once I've "cycled" the lights this way, signals are instantaneous from that point thru the ride. Even stopping for food, or even overnight at the campsite, and things are still "instant" on the next startup. But wait 2 or 3 days, and the 10-20 sec delay per side starts again. If it's off for a month (we had a month of solid rain), then the initial signal delay is longer---close to 1.5min per side.
Discovered this after winter in April during first start diagnostics. Hit the blinker, assumed bad bulbs, walked into the house to grab them off the shelf, and came back to fully working left blinker. Switched to Right (nothing), decided to wait and see.
Local (NEW) Honda dealer doesn't recognize the bike at all, but they're SURE that they couldn't get parts for it, because they don't support models earlier than 2008. (They're clueless and useless).
Note: To me, this sounds like a bad capacitor on a control board. After 15 years of stock parts, I expect one finally dried or popped, but I'm not familiar with the control location. Anyone out there with any similar experiences?
Serker
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« Last Edit: July 19, 2015, 11:17:47 AM by serker »
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NCGhostrider
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Posts: 592
A bad map and a long ride in Northern New Mexico!
Jacksboro, TX
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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2015, 08:25:49 AM » |
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If I were guessing, I would start with 38301-KK9-952 RELAY, TURN SIGNAL (MITSUBA) , they are load dependent, and with age the characteristics of the device can change. Much like a capacitor. The old ones were dependent on temperature to open and close the newer ones have electronics in them.
Others may have a different idea. But in my opinion, this would be the place I would start. The true test would be to see if the system is getting the on signal to start blinking. I haven't had to dig that deep, but to me a good light tester or volt meter probably would tell a lot. Once again, I would start at the blinker relay.
Good luck, and post what you find out for others.
Craig NcGhostrider 99 I/S
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« Last Edit: July 19, 2015, 08:31:02 AM by NCGhostrider »
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#6674 99 I/S Why aren't we riding? Anyone? Anyone?
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2015, 09:27:36 AM » |
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Naw, it's your blinker switch. The lubricant inside is thickened up and delays
the contact between the parts. Take some switch cleaner and do a thorough
douching of the switch and it will be right as rain.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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EddyH
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Posts: 24
2001 Standard
Lawton, Oklahoma
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« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2015, 10:29:19 AM » |
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I agree with Ricky-D. I had same delay problem with mine when I first got my bike. Cleaning the old grease out fixed it. No delay problems since.
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serker
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« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2015, 11:15:20 AM » |
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To all of you,
I've spent so many years trying to keep up with ECM/TCM diagnostics, that it's just been beaten into me to look for a control board. I've lost nearly all analog common sense.
After reversing the part number from NCGhostrider, I NOW know that the parts I'm looking at are in the "wiring harness" diagram on any honda part search. I incredulously looked at the diagram for several minutes, wondering why all of the relay parts would be included in the "wiring harness" assembly. I'm quite embarrassed at this, because the idea that something didn't have fuel injection, an ECM, and digital data lines just took forever to sink in. The fact that I'm staring at a 6-cyl carburated engine just didn't register.
Taking the switch apart solved the problem. This of course was after ordering a new relay on amazon that won't be nearly as corroded as the relay I removed and tested. The relay is actually a little out of spec---4.7ohms where it should be 0.2, and a little dielectric grease all around.
Thanks guys, I will put a "this isn't computerized, stupid" sticker on my battery. I'm pretty much expecting I'll need that reminder in the future.
Serker
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NCGhostrider
Member
    
Posts: 592
A bad map and a long ride in Northern New Mexico!
Jacksboro, TX
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« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2015, 11:29:08 AM » |
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It is hard to move back and forth.
I forgot that the switch was subject to lubrication (or lack thereof) and has a tendency to not engage the circuit just because you move it. I just came in here to post that it should be checked like Ricky-D suggested.
Glad you found the problem!
I am back to working on my Bluetooth project..
Craig
NcGhostrider 99 I/S
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#6674 99 I/S Why aren't we riding? Anyone? Anyone?
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John Schmidt
Member
    
Posts: 15223
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2015, 04:37:06 PM » |
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Well, at least it does have an ECM/ICM.....i.e., ignition control module.  You want to know why I don't fly anymore? Because when I learned many years ago all we had were "steam" gauges....round analog type. Now, I recently sat in the cockpit of a fairly new Cessna and all those gauges are gone, replaced by nothing but a glass panel. All electronic and digitized internally. I haven't flown in at least 20 years and I'd fly into the side of a bldg. while trying to figure out what I'm looking at if I were to try and go up now. 
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BradValk48237
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« Reply #7 on: July 20, 2015, 02:09:18 PM » |
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Yer Blinker fluid was just low.. correct????
B
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Lyonardo
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« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2016, 12:12:58 PM » |
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I'm just chiming in to say I had this same problem. And, just like the OP, I was looking for an electrical fix instead of a mechanical one. It was the delay that fooled me... seemed like a digital logic problem. I squirted some contact cleaner in the switch housing and things improved a lot! I'm sure it will be fixed once I get home and can take it apart. Thanks! I love this board.
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