|
ammpro
|
 |
« on: August 05, 2015, 01:52:09 PM » |
|
Has anyone successfully removed scratches on Interstate plastic bags, trunk, fairing, etc? Thinking of using an automotive headlight polishing kit, but would sure like input before I try it.
Frank
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Frank
Have fun. Be safe. Always set a good example.
|
|
|
|
old2soon
|
|
« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2015, 02:18:12 PM » |
|
How bad are the scratches? I've had some success with a light buffing compound. If you are seeing color OTHER than the color of the surface paint you have very DEEP scratches. Hope I have been of some help. RIDE SAFE.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
|
|
|
|
Dagwood
|
|
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2015, 02:39:53 PM » |
|
O2S is right. A light buffing compound can really help with the light scratches. If they are really light, I would go with a polishing compound first and definately use a 6" buffer, don't try it by hand.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Youth and Skill are no Match for Age and Treachery  |
|
|
|
ammpro
|
|
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2015, 02:53:38 PM » |
|
They are mostly light, caused by the previous owner not keeping those plastic guards on the guide metal attached to the saddlebag covers.
Aren't all the plastic parts molded, so the color is not just on the surface?
Frank
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Frank
Have fun. Be safe. Always set a good example.
|
|
|
|
The emperor has no clothes
|
|
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2015, 04:28:43 PM » |
|
They are mostly light, caused by the previous owner not keeping those plastic guards on the guide metal attached to the saddlebag covers.
Aren't all the plastic parts molded, so the color is not just on the surface?
Frank
No, they are made from ABS which is black and then painted with regular auto paint. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ammpro
|
|
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2015, 08:04:55 PM » |
|
Thanks for the info.
Frank
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Frank
Have fun. Be safe. Always set a good example.
|
|
|
rugguy
Member
Posts: 245
2000 Valk I/S
Atlanta, GA
|
|
« Reply #6 on: August 06, 2015, 06:18:17 AM » |
|
Having done quite a bit of extensive paint and body work on my Valk (don't ask) I will make the following suggestions. 1) DO NOT USE A HEADLIGHT POLISHING KIT. Buy a used I/S part off ebay and practice on that. The different buffer types, speeds and pads are critical. And using the proper cutting/buffing compounds correctly and in the right order order is crucial too. Without practice it is very easy to burn through the clear coat, particularly on curved areas of parts, or haze/swirl the finish. And there isn't a straight or flat part of a Valkyrie I/S anywhere. I would rather ruin a $50 ebay trash part than have to have a part on your bike repainted. 2) Pay someone a couple hundred bucks who does it for a living to do it right. Or at least have them look at it to tell you what has to be done. You can't hide a bad buff job. You can only redo it if you don't have a burn-through. Just my two cents worth. Here is an example of a kit that you would use (but research for yourself) to do what you are planning to do: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Perfect-It-Buffing-Polishing-Kit-39060-39061-39062-5723-5725-5751-1Kit-/121186718476 |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: August 06, 2015, 06:26:07 AM by rugguy »
|
Logged
|
I hate sand....sand SUCKS!
I wear a helmet....."I'd rather have brains in my head than wind in my hair"
1999 Valk I/S
2000 Valk I/S
2001 BMW K1200 LTE (sold)
2002 FLHRSEI (for sale)
2006 FLHCTUI (sold)
|
|
|
|
ammpro
|
|
« Reply #7 on: August 06, 2015, 07:12:42 AM » |
|
Thanks for that! I'm comfortable with everything except bodywork and paint...
I was under the impression that the black pieces were solid plastic and would buff well. This would have been an effort to avoid new paint. The previous owner was not careful, and the bike has a lot of small scrapes and scuffs. I think paint is in its future...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Frank
Have fun. Be safe. Always set a good example.
|
|
|
rugguy
Member
Posts: 245
2000 Valk I/S
Atlanta, GA
|
|
« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2015, 07:20:38 AM » |
|
Take it to a pro and have them assess the situation. You could get by with a professional buff and glaze job. Black is THE hardest color to work with. Or, you may get a good results from a pro shooting new clear on the bike. I would try a pro buff and glaze job first... you may save the paint job.
If I remember correctly, there are fifteen parts that have to be removed, prepped, primed, sanded, painted and clear coated then reinstalled. So I would do what I could first to have a pro try and save the current paint.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
I hate sand....sand SUCKS!
I wear a helmet....."I'd rather have brains in my head than wind in my hair"
1999 Valk I/S
2000 Valk I/S
2001 BMW K1200 LTE (sold)
2002 FLHRSEI (for sale)
2006 FLHCTUI (sold)
|
|
|
|
jaksvalkIS
|
|
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2015, 08:42:02 AM » |
|
I wet sanded with 1500 grit wet sand paper and then buffed it.Took almost all the scratches out of the cowling when a van back into it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
ammpro
|
|
« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2015, 11:47:20 AM » |
|
Much appreciated info. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Frank
Have fun. Be safe. Always set a good example.
|
|
|
|
