Removing Hard bags on my IS

[Steve-L]

I want to get at the shocks to adjust them and get a good look at them. This is a "new to me" 99 Interstate. I beliebe the shocks are stock but not sure what setting they're on and the bike also has the guard rails.

It looks like it's 3 bolts to free the bags from the rear and bottom, but am I'm going to need to remove the bag rails or the tourpak or anything, or will those bags just come right out of their nest?

[DLSSOJC]

You should be able just to remove the bolts in the bags, and the bags should just slip up and out of their supports. 

[Steve-L]

You should be able just to remove the bolts in the bags, and the bags should just slip up and out of their supports. 

Super, I was hoping this wasn't going to be more than that.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Steve

[Michvalk]

There are four bolts in each bag

[The emperor has no clothes]

And don't lose the little spacer under the bag's back bolt. 

[old2soon]

When you get them off they may or may NOT stand on their own. Lean the mounting side towards a wall or work bench OUT of the way where you WON'T trip over them or kick them!  DO NOT ask!  RIDE SAFE.

[DenverDave]

Four bolts in each bag, two on the bottom and two up high on the inside of the bag. I believe they are 10mm.

Also a great time to flush/bleed the rear brake lines and caliper, check the fluid level in the rear case and check the rear brake pads while the bags are off.

Dave

[Jess from VA]

If they are stock there should be an adjustment tool (tool bag?).

If aftermarket, you may need a strap wrench.  I use one on my Progressive 440s, and don't need to pull the bags.  Once you get the hang of it, short throws do the trick.

[Steve-L]

Four bolts in each bag, two on the bottom and two up high on the inside of the bag. I believe they are 10mm.

Also a great time to flush/bleed the rear brake lines and caliper, check the fluid level in the rear case and check the rear brake pads while the bags are off.

Dave

I missed the 2nd one on the bottom. Thanks!!

Good points too, around the brakes and rear diff. I think I may need new pads back there as well.

Thank you everyone that chimed in, I am much more well informed and great advice about the other maintenance tasks while I'm in there.

Good point on the bags needing to lean to the inside too. They will get gentle care.

Thanks guys!

[Pete]

The 4 bag bolts on my IS have an 8 MM head.

[BradValk48237]

Be careful...

Yes they SHOULD be able to come out with out removing the rails... HOWEVER.. some of the rails - don't sit square and may need to be loosened to get them out....

I have the aftermarket and left side is fine, but the right needs to be loosed a bit to get the bag out.... and a lot of wiggling...

So don't force it.....

B

[old2soon]

Four bolts in each bag, two on the bottom and two up high on the inside of the bag. I believe they are 10mm.

Also a great time to flush/bleed the rear brake lines and caliper, check the fluid level in the rear case and check the rear brake pads while the bags are off.

Dave

I missed the 2nd one on the bottom. Thanks!!

Good points too, around the brakes and rear diff. I think I may need new pads back there as well.

Thank you everyone that chimed in, I am much more well informed and great advice about the other maintenance tasks while I'm in there.

Good point on the bags needing to lean to the inside too. They will get gentle care.

Thanks guys!

      A LOT of the information here is hard won-if not all of it. Won't be long and you'll be giving tips on procedures yerself! See if you can't get the Honda Valkyrie service manual or the Clymer manual for the Valkyrie. Seems as if I got my Clymer from flea bay or Amazon at around 25 bucks shipped. Guy I bought a seat from with a backrest made me a sweetheart deal on the Honda manual.  Keep an eye on the classifieds as I've seen both show up there from time to time. First time I took the bags off I was sad at how crappy the rear wheel REALLY looked!  Some good polish and lotsa elbow grease and they be lookin a little better.  RIDE SAFE.

[Steve K (IA)]

I always have to partially disassemble my bag rails.  Loosen the top shock bolt and go around to the back and remove the small bolt from the rear center piece.  

When removing the rear bottom bolt inside the bag, be careful and watch where the little spacer falls.  The spacer is underneath between the heat shield and the part of the bag rail that curls under the bag.

[gordonv]

When removing the rear bottom bolt inside the bag, be careful and watch where the little spacer falls.  The spacer is underneath between the heat shield and the part of the bag rail that curls under the bag.

If I understand you right, mine is inside the bag. Like a T. There is a hole through it, and the top of the T acts as a washer on top of the rubber bushing.

[Steve-L]

Four bolts in each bag, two on the bottom and two up high on the inside of the bag. I believe they are 10mm.

Also a great time to flush/bleed the rear brake lines and caliper, check the fluid level in the rear case and check the rear brake pads while the bags are off.

Dave

I missed the 2nd one on the bottom. Thanks!!

Good points too, around the brakes and rear diff. I think I may need new pads back there as well.

Thank you everyone that chimed in, I am much more well informed and great advice about the other maintenance tasks while I'm in there.

Good point on the bags needing to lean to the inside too. They will get gentle care.

Thanks guys!

      A LOT of the information here is hard won-if not all of it. Won't be long and you'll be giving tips on procedures yerself! See if you can't get the Honda Valkyrie service manual or the Clymer manual for the Valkyrie. Seems as if I got my Clymer from flea bay or Amazon at around 25 bucks shipped. Guy I bought a seat from with a backrest made me a sweetheart deal on the Honda manual.  Keep an eye on the classifieds as I've seen both show up there from time to time. First time I took the bags off I was sad at how crappy the rear wheel REALLY looked!  Some good polish and lotsa elbow grease and they be lookin a little better.  RIDE SAFE.

I appreciate the "hard won" point. I actually had my first Valk since I bought it new in 01 it was a leftover 98. Unfortunately it was totalled earlier this year in an unfortunate accident. So I'm pretty familiar with almost all stuff Valk, that one had 102K miles on it that I put there. But this is my first Interstate so all those IS specific things are where my learning curve is now.

I have the PDF service manual on my laptop and it comes down to the garage with me. I also intend to get down and dirty with the BigGirl and have my way with the rear wheel. I'll post pics after that session.

Here's how I kept the my previous FatLady.

[Steve K (IA)]

When removing the rear bottom bolt inside the bag, be careful and watch where the little spacer falls.  The spacer is underneath between the heat shield and the part of the bag rail that curls under the bag.

If I understand you right, mine is inside the bag. Like a T. There is a hole through it, and the top of the T acts as a washer on top of the rubber bushing.

I think your describing a flanged washer.  It prevents you from cinching down a bolt too tight which would crack the ABS.  The spacer is outside the bags, underneath. (it's small and easily lost)  The rear mounting bolt in the bottom of the bag, goes through the bag, heat shield, screws into a threaded hole in the bag bracket and then through the spacer before going through the hole in the small arm coming off the rails curving under the bags.  A nut tops it off.

As you are screwing that bolt down during reassembly, you need to watch the end of the bolt as it comes through the heat shield to get the spacer onto the bolt.  What I have tried to describe will be clear once you have had to remove the bags w/ rails.  

I have taken my bags off every spring to clean the back and bottoms of the bags and wax them.  Also polish the chrome bag brackets clean and sometimes repaint the heat shields and clean everything else the bags hide.  

[Jess from VA]

Go to Shop Talk, left side, Installation Manuals (PDF) for Bag Rails.  See #4.

[Steve-L]

When removing the rear bottom bolt inside the bag, be careful and watch where the little spacer falls.  The spacer is underneath between the heat shield and the part of the bag rail that curls under the bag.

If I understand you right, mine is inside the bag. Like a T. There is a hole through it, and the top of the T acts as a washer on top of the rubber bushing.

Nice description.. that's what you don't get in the Service Manual.

I think your describing a flanged washer.  It prevents you from cinching down a bolt too tight which would crack the ABS.  The spacer is outside the bags, underneath. (it's small and easily lost)  The rear mounting bolt in the bottom of the bag, goes through the bag, heat shield, screws into a threaded hole in the bag bracket and then through the spacer before going through the hole in the small arm coming off the rails curving under the bags.  A nut tops it off.

As you are screwing that bolt down during reassembly, you need to watch the end of the bolt as it comes through the heat shield to get the spacer onto the bolt.  What I have tried to describe will be clear once you have had to remove the bags w/ rails.  

I have taken my bags off every spring to clean the back and bottoms of the bags and wax them.  Also polish the chrome bag brackets clean and sometimes repaint the heat shields and clean everything else the bags hide.  

[Red Diamond]

If I understand your post, why would you remove the bags to adjust the shocks?

[Steve-L]

If I understand your post, why would you remove the bags to adjust the shocks?

Well, this is a "new to me" bike. 73K miles. I am not liking the ride at all. I am not sure what the shocks are currently set at, seeing the marking in there and what the shocks are set at on both sides (hope they're set the same, whatever it is) is difficult. I can see the black pointer/arrow type mark, but can't tell what setting the shock are.

So, I basically just want to get a better view of the situation.

[98valk]

If they are stock there should be an adjustment tool (tool bag?).

If aftermarket, you may need a strap wrench.  I use one on my Progressive 440s, and don't need to pull the bags.  Once you get the hang of it, short throws do the trick.

Exactly, if one has the tool and the extension handle for the OEM, there is no need to remove the bags. I just re-adjusted my shocks yesterday with the bags on. zero problems.

[Red Diamond]

Just a short explanation on adjustment, turn the shocks until they drop to the bottom, #1 position, then start from there. 4 or 5 clicks on each side and they will drop back to #1 position or bottom setting. Find the most comfortable position for you, or you and your passenger. Two up will probably require a higher setting.

[Steve-L]

Just a short explanation on adjustment, turn the shocks until they drop to the bottom, #1 position, then start from there. 4 or 5 clicks on each side and they will drop back to #1 position or bottom setting. Find the most comfortable position for you, or you and your passenger. Two up will probably require a higher setting.

Thanks for that. I may take them off anyway as I am going to check out the back brake pads, and change the rear diff fluid. and get down and dirty with tta rear wheel.

[Bighead]

When removing the rear bottom bolt inside the bag, be careful and watch where the little spacer falls.  The spacer is underneath between the heat shield and the part of the bag rail that curls under the bag.

If I understand you right, mine is inside the bag. Like a T. There is a hole through it, and the top of the T acts as a washer on top of the rubber bushing.

I think your describing a flanged washer.  It prevents you from cinching down a bolt too tight which would crack the ABS.  The spacer is outside the bags, underneath. (it's small and easily lost)  The rear mounting bolt in the bottom of the bag, goes through the bag, heat shield, screws into a threaded hole in the bag bracket and then through the spacer before going through the hole in the small arm coming off the rails curving under the bags.  A nut tops it off.

As you are screwing that bolt down during reassembly, you need to watch the end of the bolt as it comes through the heat shield to get the spacer onto the bolt.  What I have tried to describe will be clear once you have had to remove the bags w/ rails.  

I have taken my bags off every spring to clean the back and bottoms of the bags and wax them.  Also polish the chrome bag brackets clean and sometimes repaint the heat shields and clean everything else the bags hide.  

Mine has no spacer and never has.

[longrider]

Steve

You may want to have a new set of shock bushings handy.  pay close attention to the uppers. 

[Kunkies]

if you are going to replace your rear diff' oil, do NOT over tighten the drain/view bolt.