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Author Topic: Start switch melted.  (Read 792 times)
Grandpa Bigbuck
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Posts: 285


Paola, KS


« on: August 30, 2015, 03:37:54 PM »

My wife has a 2001 standard with motor trike conversion. Yesterday we were out for a ride when I noticed she had no headlight. Found the start switch melted. 2nd one in 2 years. I know there is a modification that involves adding a relay to the headlight circuit, but what exactly is causing the switch to melt? I also have a 2001 and have not experienced any of these issues.
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2015, 03:50:58 PM »

Are you running a standard wattage headlight? Any extra running lights? Excess current draw can do it so a relay must be added if you amp-up the headlights. Of course, another possibility is simply that the switch is bad and has high contact resistance which causes heat and melting. Bummer.
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BobB
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One dragon on the tail of another.


« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2015, 03:56:31 PM »

With standard OEM wiring, the entire amperage for the headlamp goes through the starter switch.  That power is then routed to the hi/low beam switch on the left handlebar.  That switch can fail in the same way.  Are you using a head lamp bulb that is a higher wattage than normal?  If so, you will be even more prone to switch failures.  I highly recommend the modification to protect both switches.  I did mine two  years ago and have had no further switch issues.

Here is the write up that I did at that time.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,55747.msg535635.html#msg535635
« Last Edit: August 30, 2015, 04:14:51 PM by BobB » Logged

Grandpa Bigbuck
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Posts: 285


Paola, KS


« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2015, 06:27:08 PM »

Would installing a LED bulb that is rated at 20/40 watts eliminate this problem?
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BonS
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Blue Springs, MO


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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2015, 06:43:43 PM »

Well, it sure should.

I just helped out a friend this weekend with the same issue. The switch was too melted to salvage. He has a Tourer with a stock bulb, low miles, no extra lights. The copper contact in the switch wasn't burned but there must be a lot of electrical resistance at the contacts so I assume that the lubrication had dried out and the internal brass contact couldn't move freely to make a good contact. The result is heat, melting and toast.
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