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Author Topic: Simple to construct shifter pivot  (Read 11768 times)
MarkT
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Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #40 on: July 31, 2016, 09:10:52 AM »

Do you have part #s for the bolt on the left and the bolt on the right? I want to make sure I get the right pitch for the bolt that goes into the frame so as not to cross thread.

What are you talking about?  There are no bolts in this mod that go into the frame.  "bolt on the left and the bolt on the right" - WHAT?  Just buy the parts at the top of this thread from McMaster using the P/Ns given.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
cogsman
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Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #41 on: August 01, 2016, 06:16:38 AM »

Wow. wtf.
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Fazer
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Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« Reply #42 on: August 02, 2016, 05:21:51 AM »

Mine worked great, but interfered with my heel toe shifter designed by Ken Tarver (see thread titled "Add On Heel Toe Shifter) that I recently added, so I have removed it.  The front of the chrome shift bracket hit the metal straps I have bolted to the shift arm, so I will have to modify something.  It may be as simple as rounding the end of the metal straps but for now I have taken it off.
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Nothing in moderation...
MarkT
Member
*****
Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


WWW
« Reply #43 on: August 02, 2016, 08:27:27 AM »

Do you have part #s for the bolt on the left and the bolt on the right? I want to make sure I get the right pitch for the bolt that goes into the frame so as not to cross thread.

What are you talking about?  There are no bolts in this mod that go into the frame.  "bolt on the left and the bolt on the right" - WHAT?  Just buy the parts at the top of this thread from McMaster using the P/Ns given.

OK, correction.  The one bolt that goes through the crash bar to the frame - you can reuse the OEM bolt.  It's plenty long enough unless your crash bar frame is sprung and it needs to be pulled in. That bolt is M8X1.25 - FYI same thread used throughout the bike on M8 bolts. The double straps is overkill - single straps are good, making the thickness of the bolt span less.  Might need to make small adjustments for alignment with washers. I made adjustments to the design to accommodate the forward controls hardware. I did this twice, to Deerslayer and Jade; both have fwd controls and I did Jade slightly different after learning on Deerslayer. Deerslayer also had more wear with 3 X the miles, which took more effort and parts, including a spring to assist shifter reset.

This video of Deerslayer starts with the mods needed on the brake side then goes to the shifter side.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltgVugCRfFg
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
EZRiderF6C
Member
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Posts: 17


Doesn't matter what you ride, just that you do.

Colorado


« Reply #44 on: September 24, 2017, 05:08:00 PM »

I think the mod is really neat and having had to replace the shifter seal myself and experiencing rough shifting into second gear and very difficult to find neutral (due to the hydraulic clutch design) I am going to implement this.

I love my 98 GL1500CD Dragon.

As for the negative comments:  if you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all.

Keep the shiny side up and those pesky harleys in your rearview!!!!
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EZRiderF6C
'98 GL1500CD
'15 GL1800CF 40th Anniversary
'08 HD Rocker-C, Willie G. Design.
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