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Author Topic: Cyc popping  (Read 1291 times)
Jym777
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Posts: 79

Silver Springs Fl


« on: November 18, 2015, 04:19:37 PM »

Hay guys, would it be in one of my carbs that cause a popping sound out of one of the left cylinder at between 1000-1500 rpm in first or second gear? Really bugging me!! Any and all help much appreciated, Thanks, Jym..
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #1 on: November 19, 2015, 07:07:26 AM »

Sounds like the classic case of varnished low jets. Try several tank fulls with heavy doses of fuel cleaner.
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Jym777
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Silver Springs Fl


« Reply #2 on: November 19, 2015, 10:13:51 AM »

Thanks Pat, I'll try that first, easier than pulling carbs apart!!
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salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #3 on: November 19, 2015, 11:59:30 AM »

Thanks Pat, I'll try that first, easier than pulling carbs apart!!

Jym use Chemtool B12.  Use a can in a full tank.
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1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #4 on: November 19, 2015, 06:03:23 PM »

And ride it at very low rpms .
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
NDFRC
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Orange Park FL


« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2015, 03:30:25 AM »

Understand low RPMs and cleaning out slow jets, but riding a Valk at very low RPMs is definitely an oxymoron! 
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2015, 09:58:39 AM »

Understand low RPMs and cleaning out slow jets, but riding a Valk at very low RPMs is definitely an oxymoron! 








LOL !  Thats just completely against basic human nature isn't it !

But, keeping the engine speed from idle to about 2500 keeps most of the fuel moving thru the low circuit.
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Flat6Valk
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Posts: 633


Blacklick, Ohio


« Reply #7 on: November 23, 2015, 12:05:02 PM »

Check you vacuum tube too.  Even a tiny bit loose or tiny crack will cause havoc.  Especially on warm days.

And check the screws holding the rubber tubes to the manifolds.

Greg
Flat6Valk
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Oldnick
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Posts: 292


Western Australia


« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2015, 05:42:29 PM »

I had a lot of popping and crackling at 1000-3000- rpm no load because of a loose tube on the rear left cyclinder that is the vacuum line to the tank.  Worth checking that at both ends as well. IT can also cause fuel feed trouble
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Nick
May God save us from believers!
IamGCW
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727 hood


« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2015, 05:58:32 AM »

+1 on the intake clamps.
Could also be the start of a fuel valve leak, vacuum port cap leak, or intake O ring leak.

Gil
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Gil
uıɐƃɐ ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ɹǝʌǝu ןן,ı
Jym777
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Silver Springs Fl


« Reply #10 on: November 25, 2015, 03:22:43 PM »

Thanks so much guys, good info! Much appreciated!!
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Oldnick
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Western Australia


« Reply #11 on: November 25, 2015, 10:03:06 PM »

Hope I am not condescending, but start simple, with the easiest stuff to check. Many are the times I wish I had listened to that.

IME, having a good look, at the plumbing under the tank generally, is not a bad idea. A lot of mine had perished at the ends, probably because of heat and vibration....and before anyone mentions the "nickel test"  Roll Eyes, there is road vibration as well Smiley

Nick
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Nick
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Pappy!
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Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #12 on: November 29, 2015, 07:36:36 AM »

Also try a good old carb sync.
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Jym777
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Silver Springs Fl


« Reply #13 on: December 01, 2015, 04:49:25 PM »

Cyc popping issue resolved! Thanks to all of you guys!! It was the vacuum line, I followed it from the left rear cyc and there it was unhook and just laying there, took a few minutes to figure where it went, hooked it up and no more popping! Thanks again you guys, much appreciated, Jym...
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Steel cowboy
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Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.

Spring Hill, Fl.


« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2015, 05:10:22 PM »

Left rear manifold that's number 6 carb.feeds vacuum to the petcock. If your bike ran with the vacuum line disconnect I would check it. Fuel should not be passing thru the stock petcock with out vacuum.
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