Are you a greaser?

[_Sheffjs_]

Not the 50s 60s type.  Are you one who will grease every bolt you touch when wrenching like I do?  

I understand some are opposed to using grease on bolts.  I feel grease saves threads from stripping out.  

[Jess from VA]

I clean each one (if it has any corrosion), then use a dab (not a glob) of copper antiseize.

Of course, dab and glob are technical terms.

I wish I was a greaser, but all my hair fell out.

[Chippy01]

Same as Jess. Anything that gets undone is cleaned and given a tiny smear of copper antisieze.

Although torqueing any of the pre-coppered bolts is done carefully, it's easy to overdo it when there is a but of the slippy stuff involved.

[John Schmidt]

Not every bolt, especially if it needs an accurate torque applied. Often grease on the bolt will give an inaccurate reading when being torqued. Usually I'll just clean the threads up with my wire wheel on the bench grinder.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Not a greaser either way. I'm bald and lazy. 

[DK]

I'm way more likely to apply blue loctite.

Dan

[98valk]

be careful with copper anti-sieze. it likes to make a little battery aka as major corrosion/welding.

silver anti-sieze is always best, nickle based for stainless steel is best but not really needed unless elevated temps.

[..]

I'm way more likely to apply blue loctite.

Dan

+1

A quick scrub with a wire brush and then a drop of blue.

[Jess from VA]

be careful with copper anti-sieze. it likes to make a little battery aka as major corrosion/welding.

silver anti-sieze is always best, nickle based for stainless steel is best but not really needed unless elevated temps.

I've read that more than once CA, but in many years of use, I've never seen any such corrosion.  Esp spark plugs.  Not that I'm adverse to silver.  

[_Sheffjs_]

I clean each one (if it has any corrosion), then use a dab (not a glob) of copper antiseize.

Of course, dab and glob are technical terms.

I wish I was a greaser, but all my hair fell out.

What don't we like about grease???  Why is antiseize better?? I use both but just want thoughts here. 

[Jess from VA]

I clean each one (if it has any corrosion), then use a dab (not a glob) of copper antiseize.

Of course, dab and glob are technical terms.

I wish I was a greaser, but all my hair fell out.

What don't we like about grease???  Why is antiseize better?? I use both but just want thoughts here. 

I don't dislike (good) grease (like Belray/Guard Dog/Green- like for the splines), I just think anti-seize lasts longer and maybe doesn't melt as much under heat.

[da prez]

  H D =lock-tite    Honda = anti-seize.

      Silver anti seize is made for certain applications as is copper. Read on the containers to why. I have both in stock. I do not have the info in front of me now. Take a magnifying glass to the parts store and read the info to see what best suits your needs.
  Torqueing = clean or chase (tap or die) threads and apply a light oil coating to threads and torque to specifications. If torqueing in a blind hole , as a head bolt (example only) make sure the hole is clean. A small screwdriver and blow gun with a small (needle tip) nozzle to fit in the hole. Cover loosely with a rag and blow out. If the hole has any build up in the bottom , the bolt could bottom out before the bolt is tight.  FYI, If the torque is 100lbs, and doing a two or three stage torque,   the second stage should be 85lbs or less. Then 100lbs. In a tech school , It was established that it takes at least 10% more to move a torqued bolt or nut. So, if you torque to 95lbs and then to 100lbs , in theory (thru testing in a controlled area) it will remain at 95lbs.

                          da prez

[Patrick]

I've been doing this for a living for a long time, whether that makes any difference I don't know. I like to think it does.
I very seldom put fasteners together dry. They get cleaned, then either oil, grease, lead based anti-seize [ don't like copper] or lock-tite. It all depends on the situation. I also use 2 forms of anti-seize. Back in the day being from a Ford garage and when king pins were king, we would mix oil with never-seize, put it in a grease gun for use on king pins. They wouldn't seize after that and I still use it sometimes on various things.
When torquing something is necessary, allowance needs to given for any kind of lube. I think I posted a chart not long ago.

[Gideon]

I've been doing this for a living for a long time, whether that makes any difference I don't know. I like to think it does.
I very seldom put fasteners together dry. They get cleaned, then either oil, grease, lead based anti-seize [ don't like copper] or lock-tite. It all depends on the situation. I also use 2 forms of anti-seize. Back in the day being from a Ford garage and when king pins were king, we would mix oil with never-seize, put it in a grease gun for use on king pins. They wouldn't seize after that and I still use it sometimes on various things.
When torquing something is necessary, allowance needs to given for any kind of lube. I think I posted a chart not long ago.

Can you post that chart again?

[98valk]

I clean each one (if it has any corrosion), then use a dab (not a glob) of copper antiseize.

Of course, dab and glob are technical terms.

I wish I was a greaser, but all my hair fell out.

What don't we like about grease???  Why is antiseize better?? I use both but just want thoughts here. 

grease is oil in suspension with thickeners and base carriers.  once the oil comes out then all is left is the rest.
anti-sieze isn't made like that it will always be there, although it can dry up but the protection is still there.

[h13man]

I antisieze with copper version. As far as it corroding, used it for years and never seen any issues. As for Loctite on a Honda, never. Loctite (red or green) has its place but not on my ride whatsoever but ocassional use of blue on items that hardly needs removal such as backrest screws.

[Patrick]

I've been doing this for a living for a long time, whether that makes any difference I don't know. I like to think it does.
I very seldom put fasteners together dry. They get cleaned, then either oil, grease, lead based anti-seize [ don't like copper] or lock-tite. It all depends on the situation. I also use 2 forms of anti-seize. Back in the day being from a Ford garage and when king pins were king, we would mix oil with never-seize, put it in a grease gun for use on king pins. They wouldn't seize after that and I still use it sometimes on various things.
When torquing something is necessary, allowance needs to given for any kind of lube. I think I posted a chart not long ago.

Can you post that chart again?

It probably can be found in search or on a google search.
Generally there is about a 25% reduction.


Here is one.   
https://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf


I'm not a big believer in torque wrenches once you get your elbow calibrated. Maximum torque is seldom required. Torque wrenches are more for consistency amongst multiple fasteners. Don't get me wrong, there are places for these wrenches. I see folks consistently improperly use these tools.

[Gideon]

   Thank you Patrick

[Steve K (IA)]

I will use silver anti-seize, copper colored hi-temp anti-seize or BelRay grease.  Just depends on the location of the nut, screw, bolt.

[mark81]

I used to use anti seize on every brake job I did. after a few times I noticed that the solvent in the anti seize would dry up and I would have a caliper sticking on the slide. not seized but also not sliding. ive found hi-temp ceramic brake lube and have been using that in slides now and anti seize on threads. ill let you know in about 15 years if it is any better for brakes. as far as every other bolt no lube no locktite unless specified by manufacturer or I feel threads are getting buggered up then lube it up and run it on and off a few times

[Paladin528]

Being that most if not all of the bolts on the Valk are either Anodized or chromed, cleaning with a wire brush is not recommended.  The anodizing is there to prevent corrosion and removing it will actually promote corrosion.

At the factory most of the bolts are assembled dry and for good reason.  The torque application is consistent and matches what the engineer intended.

I ensure the bolts are clean with a nylon brush and a rag.  I soak the bolts in ACF-50 then wipe with a rag before installation.  After installation a quick spray of ACF-50 on the head will creep into the gaps and no corrosion will occur.  removal is always easy as well.

[h13man]

I used to use anti seize on every brake job I did. after a few times I noticed that the solvent in the anti seize would dry up and I would have a caliper sticking on the slide. not seized but also not sliding. ive found hi-temp ceramic brake lube and have been using that in slides now and anti seize on threads. ill let you know in about 15 years if it is any better for brakes. as far as every other bolt no lube no locktite unless specified by manufacturer or I feel threads are getting buggered up then lube it up and run it on and off a few times

Antisieze IS NOT a lubricant! Its a anti corrosive compound for threaded components.

[98valk]

[/quote]

Antisieze IS NOT a lubricant! Its a anti corrosive compound for threaded components.
[/quote]

incorrect my friend, it is also a lubricate and always has been. antisieze prevents gauling which is siezing/welding together of new threads.
teflon tape and pipe dope do the same thing, allow pipe threads to engage deep enough without gauling to seal the joint. tape and dope actually do very little sealing of a joint.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

[h13man]

Yes you can use it as a lubricant but there certain applications where it shouldn't be used as a lubricant. When exposed to open air situations it will dry out to a thick clay like mess thus causing brake calipers to hang up. Also seen it used for mechanical side pull applications in thermoset molding where it would cake into the grease grooves and leave the face of the wear plate dry and free of lubricant causing alot problems just because it was suggested/used as a lubricant. Theres a lube/chemical tool for about anything mechanical but one doesn't do it all regardless what a manufacture suggests.

[Patrick]

When all is said and done, there are times when nothing works.
Anyone who has done a lot of exhaust manifold work understands.

[mark81]

ahhh yes exhaust. I hate ford manifolds but it seems to have been phased out by the mopar manifolds these days. those ford studs are a much bigger pita though

[98valk]

I hate ford manifolds but it seems to have been phased out by the mopar manifolds these days. those ford studs are a much bigger pita though

don't remind me, I have to replace my 7.3L manifolds next yr. don't want to attempt to tighten the studs that are causing a slight leak.

[Robert]

 I have given up on antisieze and use Belray pretty much exclusively. I have had things lock up with antisieze and forget about red or blue locktite pretty much hate them. But I have never had any problem including manifolds with Belray, I even use it as antisqueel on brakes and on brake slides.

   I am not adverse at using anything else I just have not found something to be as versatile and work well. I have seen it hold up on outdrives on boats and brakes or bolts in stainless or aluminum. Heck I have seen it hold up on the drive shafts of the 1500 when not much else will.

  I will use it pretty much on every bolt and feel much better that I don't worry as much about galling the threads when putting things together. I can get a much more accurate tightening by using it also.

I would rather grease torqued bolts than take a chance them galling and ripping out threads. I have never had a problem disassembling or things holding together or not performing like they should using grease. Especially in aluminum and when you know you will be taking it apart at some later date again.

Belray is made kind of like an antisieze in that it has aluminum complex that stays when the grease or oil dries up.
 

[Lyonardo]

Wow, the timing on this is perfect.
I know you all will just shake your head, but last time I changed my front brakes (about a year ago) it was damn near impossible to get the caliper bolts off. I thought I'd be smart and use some anti seize. Two days ago I get home and hear a knocking at my front wheel.
One caliper is hanging free. One bolt is missing and the other is loose.
I'm headed to the hardware store now to see if I can find the same thread bolt.
It's blue loc-tite from here on out... at least for those bolts.

[hubcapsc]

Wow, the timing on this is perfect.
I know you all will just shake your head, but last time I changed my front brakes (about a year ago) it was damn near impossible to get the caliper bolts off. I thought I'd be smart and use some anti seize. Two days ago I get home and hear a knocking at my front wheel.
One caliper is hanging free. One bolt is missing and the other is loose.
I'm headed to the hardware store now to see if I can find the same thread bolt.
It's blue loc-tite from here on out... at least for those bolts.

 

I'm a big bolt cleaner when doing maintenance... I've been thinking, as I've
been reading through this thread, about one time doing maintenance on
my CR500 that involved taking the sprocket off... I cleaned all the bolt threads
all shiny new with a brush and wd-40... later, while stopping for a break
10 miles deep into the woods/mountains (this was back when there
were good places to ride dirt bikes around here) one of my buddy's
eyes got real big and he said, "look at your sprocket!"... all the bolts
but (two?) were gone, and the remaining ones were partially backed
out.

After that I figured that I shouldn't ought to lubricate  my bolts...

-Mike

[sdv003]

Maybe this is a dumb question, but when I look up "silver anti seize" and read the MSDS, I see that they are made with aluminum or nickel, though I have also seen zinc.  Is silver just the color or is it the metal used in the product?  If it's the metal, can you post a link so I can see how it is different from what I've been finding?  If it's the color, which underlying metal would you recommend?  Thanks.

[98valk]

Maybe this is a dumb question, but when I look up "silver anti seize" and read the MSDS, I see that they are made with aluminum or nickel, though I have also seen zinc.  Is silver just the color or is it the metal used in the product?  If it's the metal, can you post a link so I can see how it is different from what I've been finding?  If it's the color, which underlying metal would you recommend?  Thanks.

nickel type is recommended for CRES (corrosion resistant steel) bolts commonly know as stainless steel. silver type is acceptable for CRES in most applications.
I don't know if silver anti-seize ever had silver in it.
suggest check out manufacturers web sites for recommendations

[Paladin528]

Believe it or not for Manifold work you can use plain old Milk of Magnesia (from the drug store) on the bolts as a high temp anti seize.  WE use it on Jet engine hot section bolts as recomended by General Electric.  It works great.

[Paladin528]

Regarding the bolts that hold the caliper on.  According to the manual they are single time use bolts and are to be replaced every time you remove them.  You can change the pads without removing those bolts.

[98valk]

Regarding the bolts that hold the caliper on.  According to the manual they are single time use bolts and are to be replaced every time you remove them.  You can change the pads without removing those bolts.

new bolts have loc-tite on the thds, can re-use the bolts just put loc-tite on them.

[Paladin528]

common sense would say if Loc-Tite is required then anti seize should NOT be used.

[Lyonardo]

common sense would say if Loc-Tite is required then anti seize should NOT be used.

No argument there. I learned my lesson about doing a job quickly without researching it first.