Anybody seen this one for sale

[Steel cowboy]

 On Craig list
http://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/5325413827.html

[MarkT]

I'd examine it closely or have a local VRCC gearhead do it.  Low miles means probably carb and other problems from sitting.  In FL, lotsa rust usually.  I avoid buying exhaust cores from there unless removed immediately and stored inside.  Same for Carolinas, gulf coast usually not as bad. Don't know why on that.  Not to mention the known problem.  And I'm leary of internal performance mods like cams, heads, boring, even blowers and NOX.  Did he do it right?  Implies hard riding too. I found, souping up a vehicle means it may have problems brought on by the tweaks not engineered by Honda.  What's an HDRO gear?  But at $2200, might very well be worth it as a parts bike.

[Westsider]

Im guessing hydro locked

[Steel cowboy]

There are deals out there that might seem to good to be real. I purchased a 2003 Harley 1200 sportster with 4570 miles for 1200 dollars. The gentleman stopped riding it in 2005. I went to see it, it was under 4 blankets in his shed and I bought it. I got it running in about 2 weeks. Even for parts ithe Valkyrie deal sounded good, there are a lot of extras on it
Now I want to sell it (Harley). I'm not a Harley person.

[Dak44312]

Might be a good Frankenstein bike, but it's gonna take some work. Looks like someone turned the carbs around, which means the lines and cables are probably cobbled up and the air box is gone. Aftermarket cams and pipes, too?! Betcha the plugs are whiter than Delorean's glove compartment. This one wouldn't be on my Christmas list.

[gordonv]

For $2200 even I would buy this, if it was semi-local for me, and I want an IS.

Figure it needs all the things to get it running again, since it hasn't been ridden much.

Pull the plugs, and crank the engine over. No hydro lock, then buy it. Figure it will take the winter to go over it.

[larue]

On Craig list
http://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/5325413827.html

in an updated listing he stated its hydrolocked

[The emperor has no clothes]

Might be a good Frankenstein bike, but it's gonna take some work. Looks like someone turned the carbs around, which means the lines and cables are probably cobbled up and the air box is gone. Aftermarket cams and pipes, too?! Betcha the plugs are whiter than Delorean's glove compartment. This one wouldn't be on my Christmas list.

"whiter than Delorean's glove compartment" 
What's the purpose of turning the carbs around ? Just for looks or is there a performance advantage ?

[Dak44312]

Thanks...I'll be here all week 

I would say it is for looks only. I think it would be very difficult to tune with the intake side of the carbs in the breeze. You have a couple problems;  at speed, air being forced ACROSS the intake side of the carbs instead of into them might be a problem, and inconsistency of that air volume between carbs due to their position relative to each other (shielding of air).  I think it's safe to say it would be a performance DISadvantage.

All that being said, I still think it looks really cool.  If you think people gawk at the engine in regular configuration, imagine someone getting an eyeful of individual filters sticking out past the valve covers!

[Michvalk]

Carbs are not turned. Just some aftermarket Air filters glued to the tops of the carbs. Many people have them on their bikes, along with velocity stacks. No function, just looks. If it wasn't in Fla, I'd be on that like stink on S$%T.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Carbs are not turned. Just some aftermarket Air filters glued to the tops of the carbs. Many people have them on their bikes, along with velocity stacks. No function, just looks. If it wasn't in Fla, I'd be on that like stink on S$%T.

If you zoom in you can see they are turned around 

[Dak44312]

I have stacks and filters on my bike, but if you look at these, they are huge. They aren't for aesthetics. There is no way filters that size would clear the tank in stock configuration. You can also see the chrome top covers on the INSIDE of the carb bank.

[hukmut]

Well, somebody snatched it up because the posting has been deleted. Hope the new owner knows about our forum and lets us know what he/she has. 

[Flrider]

Good chance that a cycle parts shop from Daytona might have bought it.
They usually jump on this deals.

[twowguy]

OK I'm the guy who picked it up. It was close to me and I wanted to try a cruiser. Been a sport dirt type of guy for the last 30+ years. I really wanted a Valkyrie, and I like fixing bikes.
I read the comments and agree with some that standard is better, so my attempt would be to bring it back to standard.
I did get a box of standard parts with it, including the original carb brackets, the airbox and the original cams. The carbs seems to be switched from left to right (and vice versa) which makes the air filters stick outwards. Not my style, I will certainly change that.
It stripped two of the final gears on the starter driver, and seems to have damaged the rear transmission case.
I'll remove the engine this weekend and open it up to determine the damage.
I'm excited to get it running again.
I'll keep you posted to my findings, Im sure going to have questions for the smart guys on here.

[hukmut]

HOORAY!!    Glad you got it. Your new (to you) bike is considered to be one of the best motorcycles ever made.  Through the use of this forum, you should not have any problems bringing your bike back to it's former glory.
I am always suggesting to change out those carburetor float needles. The tiny springs get weak over time and will allow fuel to migrate into t :cooldude:he cylinders creating hydrolock, creating the problems that your bike has experienced.  Some folks install electric fuel shutoff valves, in addition to replacing the float needles.
Another thing that I suggest is to replace your tire air valves with metal ones. The originals will fail due to age.
A manual is available online. Maybe someone on this forum can point you to it. (I forget)
Remember, this forum is for you. Use it. We are all willing to help. When I was building mine from scratch, the folks here were most helpful. 
Ride safe.

[twowguy]

Thanks for the kind words, I'll surely open the carbs to clean them, and will use the opportunity to replace those little float valves. I believe that there are larger jets in there to accommodate the higher airflow through the air filters and exhaust. Larger jets made a difference on my VTR1000, but it comes at a fuel consumption price. I think I'll go back to the original jets as well. Except if someone on here suggest otherwise.

[Dak44312]

In your case, I'd say original is the way to go. 35/100 are the correct sizes. Some guys go to 38 on the low speed side since the orifice size on 35 is so small. I'd recommend buying those new, along with float valves. All of the other parts are usually safe to source used. I have a used bank of carbs for parts if you need anything. What is your location?

[Steel cowboy]

i'm glad it went to a rider and not a scrapper. They don't build these lady's like this anymore, too much plastic on the new bikes.

[Pappy!]

Would also go to the 38 slow jets.
Along with new seals for the carbs and float valves you will probably need a cover set for the vacuum/mechanical fuel shut-off.
There are tons of write-ups on hydro-lock along with photos. Do yourself a favor and go through these to save a bit of time.
Last but not least....welcome to the forum! Go to the Florida section and introduce yourself. We are an active bunch down here.

[gordonv]

Welcome.

You might want to add your location to your profile.

You can find a lot of info here, along with the service manual in PDF format.
http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

When you have a question, a quick search will help, then post a question to get things clarified.

Look up hydro lock, and understand what has happened to the bike. I'm sure someone has fixed the rear case removal while the engine is still in the bike.

We have a classified section, just remember to post "wanted" or "for sale" in your subject. A good place to get items you might need, to get it back to stock, or to get rid of items you don't want to keep.

Last, remember, pictures, pictures, pictures in your post of the bike servicing. Learn how to post a picture. I use photobucket, a free hosting site. It's easy to UL, click on, and choose the IMG line on the right, and post that link into your post. I place all my online posted pictures into a single library folder, so I don't delete them at a later date, and they no longer appear on my posts.

[Grumpy]

I'd examine it closely or have a local VRCC gearhead do it.  Low miles means probably carb and other problems from sitting.  In FL, lotsa rust usually.  I avoid buying exhaust cores from there unless removed immediately and stored inside.  Same for Carolinas, gulf coast usually not as bad. Don't know why on that.  Not to mention the known problem.  And I'm leary of internal performance mods like cams, heads, boring, even blowers and NOX.  Did he do it right?  Implies hard riding too. I found, souping up a vehicle means it may have problems brought on by the tweaks not engineered by Honda.  What's an HDRO gear?  But at $2200, might very well be worth it as a parts bike.

Florida, rust. Not unless you live on the beach. Lived here for 40 some years, and never had a speck of rust on any vehicle I have owned. No road salt etc.  That is an old wife's tale.

[twowguy]

Thanks for the welcome, I added my location to my profile.
I have the engine out, wasn't too difficult, but did take me a couple of hours. It is more engine than what I'm used to on a motorcycle.

Well, then came the opening of the engine to get to those stripped gears, and guess where I got stuck? Yes you are correct those two lock nuts, the 46mm on the clutch and the 40mm on the final drive. They are deeeeep sockets and needs a 12 point. I read some of that on this forum but seems to get no actual lead as where I can get those sockets. Yes I can buy a
Honda special tool on one website for more than $150 per socket. That seems like its a bit expensive. Are there cheaper options out there that I have not found yet?   

[gordonv]

Check out this post, and it's links.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,82955.msg815693.html#msg815693


Go down this post to where I posted the ntx tools links.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,17228.0.html

I believe my local Princess Auto (Harbor Freight) now carry sockets that size

[twowguy]

In your case, I'd say original is the way to go. 35/100 are the correct sizes. Some guys go to 38 on the low speed side since the orifice size on 35 is so small. I'd recommend buying those new, along with float valves. All of the other parts are usually safe to source used. I have a used bank of carbs for parts if you need anything. What is your location?

Thanks for the info. I opened the carbs today and inspected one of them carefully. They look good inside, not too dirty. The jets in there are 110 main and 40 on the slow jet.
I'll get new ones. Where is the best place to buy these?

Also the way this guy made the carbs look outwards, he had to cut the manifold pieces and weld them back together 180 degrees turned. That means I'm looking for the 6 manifold pieces.

He also had the throttle linkage cut to extend it. I'll need one of those too.

Then with my experience playing with sport bike carbs, I know that when some do a 2nd or 3rd stage mod to the carbs, they drill holes in the vacuum piston, to help with throttle response. This sometimes leaves the bike not ride-able in normal traffic. I noticed two holes in the bottom of the vacuum pistons.

Now I wonder if they were there to start with or were they drilled for the mod. No picture online or in the manual shows the vacuum piston from the bottom. Can anyone tell me if there are two holes diagonally apart on the two bottom corners of the vacuum piston?

[hukmut]

You know, these bikes run like scalded dogs without doing anything to them. WHY would anybody do that to a bike?
Seems counterproductive to me.
Just sayin'.
Good luck on the repair/restoration.

[Skinhead]

Also the way this guy made the carbs look outwards, he had to cut the manifold pieces and weld them back together 180 degrees turned. That means I'm looking for the 6 manifold pieces.

Search on Honda Valkyrie parts on Ebay, saw lots of those there.

[Dak44312]

As far as the jets go, Partzilla is about the best I've found them... It's still gonna hurt.  I have a decent set of 100's if you want to buy those used.

I have a set of intakes, and maybe the linkage, depending on what you need. The two diagonal holes  in the vacuum piston are factory.

[John Schmidt]

Lowest prices around for OEM parts is Procaliber.com
If you order over $99, shipping is free. For new jets and float valves, your best source is Jets R Us. I get the OEM equivalent for the jets but go with originals on the float valves. I'm in Winter Park so not too far away if you have questions that need an immediate answer, if I know the answer I'll give it. I've done a few carbs over the years, running #38's for slows, stock mains, been in there for at least ten years with no ethanol plugging them up.

Welcome aboard, look forward to have you joining our Fla. group of miscreants on our almost weekly "Ride to Eat" "Eat to Ride" ventures. 

[Grumpy]

I have a spare set of intake manifolds, cheap make me an offer.  I am in Seffner Fl.
I know of another bike that had the carbs turned out, called scorch, belonged to Trick Rick in S Florida.
Also the vacuum slides do have 2 holes in them stock.

[twowguy]

Thanks for all the responses. It helps me a lot.

I bought the jets and float valves from Jets R us. The prices aren't too bad the only thing is there are six of each.(I've always been a single and two cylinder guy - wow it makes a difference). I went with 38 on the slow jets, it sounds similar to my VTR where the difference was very clear, a little smoother low down in the revs.

Also got the manifolds on ebay, there were many to choose, and they are cheap (that's good for me).

Now I just need that throttle linkage between left and right side carbs. 

[twowguy]

As far as the jets go, Partzilla is about the best I've found them... It's still gonna hurt.  I have a decent set of 100's if you want to buy those used.

I have a set of intakes, and maybe the linkage, depending on what you need. The two diagonal holes  in the vacuum piston are factory.

I tried sending you a personal message, seems like I have been unsuccessful. I'm interested in the linkage, How much would like for it?

[Dak44312]

Sorry, didn't see the notification! I will check to make sure it's complete and get back to you.

[twowguy]

Here are some pictures of my progress. I've got the rear case off today. Geez this is a new addiction! I don't want to do anything but work on this bike. Now I can make a list of parts that I need and order them.

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t641/Ignatius_Kapp/Mobile%20Uploads/Valkyrie%20Restoration%20Project/IMG_20151204_163410075_zpsd98awhkp.jpg

I'm also enjoying an inside battle with myself. The bike came with modified cams, it was made by Web-Cams. They claim better torque, that helps with acceleration. That along with the larger jets, and a supertrapp exhaust should generate more power.
On the other side I'm a more conservative type that kind of like to keep things simple and reliability is kind of my thing. Usually you find reliability in a standard setup.
The previous owner gave me the standard set of cams and I bought the standard jets. I don't have a standard set of pipes but could get that later. 

What should I do? Keep it the way it is or switch back to standard?

Help me with your opinions!

[sixlow]

Working on Valkyries is an addiction, I put in ten hours today and didn't want to stop.  As far as changing everything back, if you don't..  you will wish you did, if you are like me !  there is a whole lot of reliable power in the stock set up. keep up the good work, hope to see this someday up close.

[wingrider02]

You should be able to put all the stock stuff you have back in it, and keep the Trapps...should work nice with stock stuff.  I would love to hear one with them on it!

[twowguy]

Lowest prices around for OEM parts is Procaliber.com
If you order over $99, shipping is free. For new jets and float valves, your best source is Jets R Us. I get the OEM equivalent for the jets but go with originals on the float valves. I'm in Winter Park so not too far away if you have questions that need an immediate answer, if I know the answer I'll give it. I've done a few carbs over the years, running #38's for slows, stock mains, been in there for at least ten years with no ethanol plugging them up.

Welcome aboard, look forward to have you joining our Fla. group of miscreants on our almost weekly "Ride to Eat" "Eat to Ride" ventures. 

Thanks for the pointer to Procaliber.com. I have been buying Honda parts for quite a while and never knew about this website. It's significantly cheaper. It saved me $70 already.

[twowguy]

She is purring again.
Very impressively smooth. Thanks for all the help and pointers to sources for the project.

I still have some things that I need to do but at least I made it in time to register without paying a late fee.

Yay!

[Steel cowboy]

  Great to hear you got it running, maybe you'll join us on some rides.

[Pappy!]

Agree.....would love to see the bike. Lesa's favorite color combination! Glad you got it running and get onto the Florida site and introduce yourself. Looking forward to meeting up and riding. I feel a "Shrimp R Us" ride coming soon.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/board,10.0.html