New member with new 99 interstate

[Memor86]

Hello guys I'm new on this board and I just purchased a 99 interstate I got some tech questions I hope you can help me
I've always maintained my bikes and I have already striped this down to look for problems so she won't let me stranded.

on the ride home I encountered that she has lots of rattling noises coming from the fairing area and the pods. Also some noises come from the Saddlebags and trunk area. The bike rides in straight line when you let go of the handlebars but they look not to be aligned to the wheel. The engine runs great but the idle feels erratic and the choke Is very hard to operate.

So far I have the bike striped down removed bags trunk tank and carbs.

I'm wondering what you guys recommend for then pilot screw setting should I leave then previous setting or go for the initial setting as per manual? I have the carbs apart for cleaning and I don't have the tach to do the idle drop procedure.

I'll check the front forks, can you tell me how long they compress with just the weight of the bike? I think or it appears that they are dry and are very compressed and bottom out when hard breaking. I got new deals and will replace them. I'll go for atf for fluid any recommendation?

[gordonv]

Hello and Welcome to the madness!

You might like to add your location to your profile. Will help if/when offers of help come in.

I can't help on much, since you already have the carbs apart. I would have just started with a high dose of carb cleaner, and possible save the tearing apart.

Sounds like you have the manual? http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Biggest thing is "search is your friend". Look up hydro lock.

You've already found the carb "enricher" (chock) is hard to use, you are moving 6 carbs. So you turn till hard, then turn it another 1/2".

You might like to read through this. But again, the bike is apart.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Known%20Valkyrie%20Problems.htm

Sounds like your aren't afraid, and jumped in with both feet.

The speaker pods will most likely give you trouble removing the screws. They go into a brass "nut" in the plastic, and if seized, will spin in the plastic. Remove the screws and use a little anti-seize on them. If the nut comes out, glue it in. Again, do a search, you can find more deal on the how-to.

A lubing of the rear wheel splines is in order for any new-to-you bike, without confirming history or trusting to others who don't know how to do the job right.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Elusive%203rd%20O-Ring.htm

There is so much of which might be a problem, that is why I'm here reading and keeping up on issues.

Another thing to look into is hydro lock. Turn on your petcock, and see if fuel will leak out. It shouldn't with out a vacuum being pulled on the hose in the back. Also you want new floats in the carbs, since you've pulled them.

Enjoy, and don't forget some pictures. Also some of the work, let use know what you find, or a follow up.

Oh, and while I've got your attention, there is the annual Inzane Rally in June.

[Memor86]

Thanks for the info I will check the tank petcock, when I got the bike it was on reserve and I did not wanted to mess with it because it was hard to turn. Most vacuum lines were hard, broken and in bad shape. I am from Mexico and live in Tampico. There are no parts available here. Most orings seem reusable. For the tiny ones i couldnt get replacements, The bowl gasket may need replacement I will make new gasket using a loctite kit if needed. I was able to find the orings for the air intake tubes.  I had a goldwing and this bike seems easier to work on so getting the carbs out again would not be that hard for me anymore.

I have replaced fork seals on the goldwings and some Harleys but never worked on inverted forks in hope everything goes  well.  I don't understand why the manual tells you the oil capacity of the tube and then tells you to measure the level from top of the tube. It's a bit confusing so would anyone tell me just the right amount in cc, Oz or ml? I'll use atf oil if I can't get fork oil locally. I am posting from my cell phone and its kinda hard to search around, the forum is not mobile friendly  I will try my best

[The emperor has no clothes]

It sounds like you are on the right track. I would add that the o-rings need to be good quality viton rings. I think you would be best to get all your o-rings and hoses from red eye. Someone will hopefully post up a link for you. 

[hukmut]

My recommendation is to: BE SURE to replace your float needle valves. Those tiny springs have most assuredly gotten soft from years of doing their job. Easy to change out. A heckuva lot easier (and cheaper) than to repair the damage from a hydrolock. Replace them. No question.
Ride safe and welcome to this wonderful forum, a great source of information.

[Hook#3287]

http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/2063876/carburetor-gasket-kit-viton-gf

I would purchase the carb parts rather than trying to make them.  I would buy new rather then reuse of old, you're already elbow deep into carb re-build, don't want to have to do it again.

The bike rides in straight line when you let go of the handlebars but they look not to be aligned to the wheel.

Has she been in an accident?  You might fix it when you re-install the forks after re-build from the new seals.  Some times, just needs a little tweaking of the forks and triple tree bolts.

You should replace all the rubber hoses, or do a de-smog to eliminate most of them.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,39303.msg369882/topicseen.html#msg369882
This is a good write-up on a cheap way to do it.  Red-Eye also sells a "De-Smog Kit".

Have you inspected the rear shock bushings?  They could be the cause of some of the noise coming out of the back end.

I can't imagine doing all this on a cell, you must have good eyesight

Good luck and post back with more questions, this board loves them.

[Skinhead]

As far as hard choke operation goes, yes, the action is stiff, if you feel it is unusually so, try lubing the cables, and if that doesn't help, replace them.  But keep in mind, resistance on that last 1/4 turn is significant and normal.

Since this bike is new to you, I would also clean the start button contacts, and make sure the starter relay connections are clean and free of corrosion.  As stated in previous posts, rear end/final drive maintenance and bearing check is an absolute must.

My Interstate also had a lot of rattling/squeaks from the trunk, saddle bag lids and fairing speaker panels.  I put small O rings on the 4 screws on the speaker panels and foam weather stripping on the saddle bags and trunk to take up the free play and eliminate the noises.  It helped a lot.

[Memor86]

Thanks I'll definitely order the red eye kit. I had seen it before while gogling for information but now that you recommend it I will trust it. It does not seem to include the float valves.does red eye sells them separately?

I live in Mexico parts don't ship directly to me. That's why I can't always go for the easiest way buying online.

[Skinhead]

I live in Mexico parts don't ship directly to me. That's why I can't always go for the easiest way buying online.

I don't think Red eye sells float needles.  If you can't ship parts directly, what is the best way for you to get parts?  OEM is available from many on line sources, but sounds like this is not an option for you.

[John Schmidt]

Link for new needle valves, much less expensive than buying from Honda.

http://jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_862K_su.html

Link for new slow jets, same company.

http://jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/honda_1500_valkyrie.htm

[Memor86]

Local dealer sells parts at 4x the cost on the us and usually takes 2 months to deliver.. that's a true joke. I live 5 hours driving from mcallen Texas I usually have things shipped there and I pick them up personally but right now I'm on a tight budget. I was reading about using a yellow teflon tape under the original gasket. 

[gordonv]

re-aligning the front forks could be easy, but you are taking them apart, so it will be done then. If you are doing the forks later, then align them. The manual should show you how. Basically, make sure they are the same height in the triple-tree, loosen all except for the top clamp, bounce the front end, then tighten. There is a little more, but this cuts it down a lot to give you an idea of what needs doing.

As for the starter switch, don't bother (yet), you've an IS. The problem is the std/tourer models have full battery power going through the starter switch and it cause more problems with them, than the IS model (uses a relay). But the grease still gets old/dry and holds the contacts down. I would do it sometime in the future or when it gives you trouble.

It's been mentioned the rear shock bushings. There is also the rear wheel drive bushings. While it's apart, wheels off, inspect those bearings in the wheels.

It would be hard to explain to us what noise it was that you where hearing, since you can't ride it. I would stay with what you have started fixing, what all has recommended, get the bike running again, and go out and enjoy it. It really doesn't break down too often.

[Skinhead]

As for the starter switch, don't bother (yet), you've an IS. The problem is the std/tourer models have full battery power going through the starter switch and it cause more problems with them, than the IS model (uses a relay). But the grease still gets old/dry and holds the contacts down. I would do it sometime in the future or when it gives you trouble.

Correct.  I missed the IS part. 

[Memor86]

Will bolted valve stems work on the valkyrie rims?? Those used on sport bikes?

[Skinhead]

Will bolted valve stems work on the valkyrie rims?? Those used on sport bikes?

Yes, In fact that is another recommended improvement if your bike has the OEM valvestems.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Local dealer sells parts at 4x the cost on the us and usually takes 2 months to deliver.. that's a true joke. I live 5 hours driving from mcallen Texas I usually have things shipped there and I pick them up personally but right now I'm on a tight budget. I was reading about using a yellow teflon tape under the original gasket. 

hmm...clearly there seems to be a market for smuggling Honda parts into Mexico.  (just kidding)

[Hook#3287]

Local dealer sells parts at 4x the cost on the us and usually takes 2 months to deliver.. that's a true joke. I live 5 hours driving from mcallen Texas I usually have things shipped there and I pick them up personally but right now I'm on a tight budget. I was reading about using a yellow teflon tape under the original gasket. 

hmm...clearly there seems to be a market for smuggling Honda parts into Mexico.  (just kidding)

    Well, your closest

[The emperor has no clothes]

Local dealer sells parts at 4x the cost on the us and usually takes 2 months to deliver.. that's a true joke. I live 5 hours driving from mcallen Texas I usually have things shipped there and I pick them up personally but right now I'm on a tight budget. I was reading about using a yellow teflon tape under the original gasket. 

hmm...clearly there seems to be a market for smuggling Honda parts into Mexico.  (just kidding)

    Well, your closest

You guys would send me ride reports down in the Mexican prison, right ?

[gordonv]

I missed that, Mexico, thought it was New Mexico. 

Valve stems need to be changed out every time you replace your tire (10-15K miles). If you run a CT and use one of these instead, then you should be OK, but they are cheap.
https://www.jakewilson.com/p/1753/-/162103/Myers-90%C2%B0-Tubeless-Chrome-Valve-Stem

[Hook#3287]

Local dealer sells parts at 4x the cost on the us and usually takes 2 months to deliver.. that's a true joke. I live 5 hours driving from mcallen Texas I usually have things shipped there and I pick them up personally but right now I'm on a tight budget. I was reading about using a yellow teflon tape under the original gasket. 

hmm...clearly there seems to be a market for smuggling Honda parts into Mexico.  (just kidding)

    Well, your closest

You guys would send me ride reports down in the Mexican prison, right ?

    We'd send em , don't mean you'd get em.

[Memor86]

Great, i was already ready to order tires from jakewilson.com. ill add those valve stems

one last question. what grease do you recommend for the splines

https://www.jakewilson.com/search?term=moly+grease

also. does anyone knows the sizes of the orings to replace on the final drive??

[Tfrank59]

Great, i was already ready to order tires from jakewilson.com. ill add those valve stems

one last question. what grease do you recommend for the splines

https://www.jakewilson.com/search?term=moly+grease

also. does anyone knows the sizes of the orings to replace on the final drive??

Hey welcome to the forum. There's kind of an ongoing discussion about which grease to use for your final drive splines, but I think the Belray brand is the one for that application.  As far as which O-rings for the final drive, I recommend the Redeye brand--just order the Valkyrie GL 1500 final drive o-ring kit, which contains the three O-rings you need as well as installation instructions.

[Memor86]

Any other opinion on what grease to order from  that specific site?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Any other opinion on what grease to order from  that specific site?

honda moly 60 or I think some use a locktite moly with 75%

[Hook#3287]

The Honda manual states to use Molybdenum disulfide paste.


I use Honda 60, so far, with out any problems.

[Bone]

Used the Moly paste until the tube was empty. Belray Grease since I service the final drive every 10k the splines look great.

[Memor86]

after some research i found that it seems that honda 60paste has been discontinued, i just ordered my new set of Dunlop E3, set of valvestems, sparkpugs and yamalube Molybdenum disulfide i hope it does the job.

[Tfrank59]

after some research i found that it seems that honda 60paste has been discontinued, i just ordered my new set of Dunlop E3, set of valvestems, sparkpugs and yamalube Molybdenum disulfide i hope it does the job.

If you check some earlier posts on this you'll find that one Valk member actually wrote to Honda and they told him that their own Moly 60 paste isn't the right lube for the splines, even though the Honda manual recommends it (which is why I purchased it!).  Check the shoptalk if you haven't, and see what ChrisJ does with the splines for lube; it's under "final drive maintenance," or something like that.  That Yamalube might be pretty good stuff (especially if it's high pressure waterproof grease), though it sounds just like Honda 60 disulfide paste.  Just my 1.5 cents