Rear wheel bearings

[Firefighter]

Been working when I can on my2000 IS. Replaced the swing arm bearings and then could not get the rear wheel bearing out with out the tool. Took the wheel to a local MC mechanic, who removed and replaced the bearings and seal.

Have had other obligations for a few days, so today I went to install the wheel and I worked and worked but could not accomplish this task that I have done many times. There was not enough space between the left wheel collar and the swing arm to install the brake bracket. I finally pulled the wheel (Car Tire) back off and figured out the left bearing was not installed deep enough. Just so happened, I had an extra seal as I always ruin every seal every time I remove one, and was able to grind down the old bearing so it would slip into the wheel and could be used as a bearing driver. I took a measurement before and after so as to verify that the new bearing did move. Still not simple but I did get the wheel installed!!

Question: Can the wheel bearing be installed too deep? Should be in a recess that the bearing seats on, correct?  Yes the distance collar is in between the bearings. I did think the seal was not flush enough from the beginning but ignored it.  Thanks

[Earl43P]

The bearings do seat into a recess with a lip.
I found that lightly tapping the bearing in for the final "seating" works best, while frequently spinning the center race of the bearing to judge how tightly the spacer is getting squeezed.

You don't want to jam the bearings into the wheel such that the spacer is wedged TIGHT, putting a preload onto the bearings. You do want enough grip that the spacer is held, but you can move it around enough (with a screwdriver shank) to center it in the bearing inner race bore and it stays there. If you don't grip the spacer tight enough and the spacer can flop around, you'll encounter difficulty getting the axle in to mount the wheel.

[Firefighter]

Hope I didn't get them too tight as I thought they should bottom out. The spacer was a little off center but I was able to insert the axle and convince it to straighten up before I installed the wheel. Time will tell. Thanks

[hubcapsc]

I have some of the Honda tools (also the "taker outer" tool, not shown here):



There is a very distinct sound when the bearing bottoms out when using the
driver tool to install a new bearing. You can't install the bearing too deep.

-Mike

[Tfrank59]

Hope I didn't get them too tight as I thought they should bottom out. The spacer was a little off center but I was able to insert the axle and convince it to straighten up before I installed the wheel. Time will tell. Thanks

Wheel bearings should bottom out.  I'm pretty sure you can't get them set too deep, as the bores for the bearings have the bottom machined precisely the distance across the hub the same as the inner spacer's length.  Once the bearings are installed, the inner spacer should be snug against the inner races of your bearings.  If there's any space left over (and the spacer moves side-to-side at all), you'll then be putting that much side load on the bearings that could cause a failure. FWIW what you described above sounds right to me.

[old2soon]

When Attic Rat installed mine just before I-15 last June he had a long fine thread bolt to act as the press. Also the bearings should hold in the axle spacer. As I stated before right at 103000 + miles when the original? bearings crapped out. RIDE SAFE.

[Tfrank59]

when pressing in new bearings, it's very important to have a device that ensures all pressure is applied only to the outer race, not the inner.  Getting just the right diameter socket, or grinding down an old outer race (as somebody mentioned) is a good way to make a tool, or else if you have access to a lathe and can turn something up right quick.

[h13man]

I use a piece of long 1/2"-13 all thread with the appropriate outer race dia. socket or whatever is available in the shop. Been installing bearings this way for many a year. This also allows one to feel whats going on as far as the press fit is concerned. From past experience in bearing installs I would think Honda would have machined relief into the bearing "seats" to clear the inner race and seal and the spacer should also be free after bearing install just by a pre-determined machined clearance length. Now I haven't been into my ride yet in this area but this should be the industry norm. The seal,bearings, and spacer should be a predetermined stackup w/o the owner having to do nothing but press the stack up into the wheel assembly. If this is not the case then when I get to this service theres definitely going to be some revisions made if possible.