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Demo
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« on: September 16, 2009, 07:22:47 AM » |
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Any "down and dirty" ways to estimate without using a micrometer. TIA
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2009, 08:16:47 AM » |
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When it gets to the point where you worry about it, it's time to get a new one. The disadvantages of a overly worn rotor is it wears faster and wears out the pads faster. Braking power is only slightly diminished with worn rotors and easily compensated for with more lever or pedal effort. I don't expect that worn out pads on a worn out rotor will expose the piston to dislocation but it may be a possibility.
The best solution to rotor degradation is organic pads. The are very kind to rotors and the rotors like them. The difference in braking (I know this will fire up the comments) is not so different and can again be compensated for, with more lever or pedal effort.
Myself, I don't like wearing out an expensive rotor to save money on pads, the organic ones costing less than one quarter of the metallic variety, even though the organic pads do wear out quicker. Last I paid was $45 for four sets of pads. My rotor have exhibited no sign of wear.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2009, 01:02:25 PM » |
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If you can feel a lip at the edge of your rotor its close to toast. You only have .5mm to play with on each side of the rotor (1mm overall) Ill pay shipping for your old rotor and bolts if you get new ones....I make cool stuff out of them
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
Posts: 4146
Specimen #30838 DS #0233
Williamsburg, KY
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« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2009, 01:41:09 PM » |
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If you can feel a lip at the edge of your rotor its close to toast. You only have .5mm to play with on each side of the rotor (1mm overall) Ill pay shipping for your old rotor and bolts if you get new ones....I make cool stuff out of them
Got any pics of this cool stuff you make. Inquiring minds and all that.  |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2009, 03:12:35 PM » |
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If you can feel a lip at the edge of your rotor its close to toast. You only have .5mm to play with on each side of the rotor (1mm overall) Ill pay shipping for your old rotor and bolts if you get new ones....I make cool stuff out of them
Got any pics of this cool stuff you make. Inquiring minds and all that. Sure...  Its a Lazy Susan for the Kitchen table if you couldnt tell... |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2009, 03:17:09 PM » |
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Heres a better one of one of these babies in use....  |
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KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)
Member
Posts: 4146
Specimen #30838 DS #0233
Williamsburg, KY
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« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2009, 04:09:26 PM » |
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COOL !!  I was thinking it would be a clock.  |
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Madmike
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« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2009, 09:06:24 PM » |
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Any "down and dirty" ways to estimate without using a micrometer. TIA
You can get a cheap set of verniers and use them. If you are having any problems like pulsations etc. you may want to check runout as well. |
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98valk
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« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2009, 04:39:07 PM » |
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The best solution to rotor degradation is organic pads. The are very kind to rotors and the rotors like them. The difference in braking (I know this will fire up the comments) is not so different and can again be compensated for, with more lever or pedal effort.
Myself, I don't like wearing out an expensive rotor to save money on pads, the organic ones costing less than one quarter of the metallic variety, even though the organic pads do wear out quicker. Last I paid was $45 for four sets of pads. My rotor have exhibited no sign of wear.
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first off the valkyrie does not use metallic pads, it uses sintered bronze pads, big difference when it comes to wear of the rotors esp. stainless steel rotors. With Iron rotors u would be correct but not for the valkyrie. Sintered pads also often exceed the braking of organic pads in the wet and out perform any organic pad for maximum initial braking esp. the new HH pads. The only organics that can meet the braking of sintered pads are race organics, however they need lots of heat to do it. Not something or time to do on the street when somebody cuts into your lane. Organics have a low initial bite. to read more see below. http://www.sportbikesolutions.com/sintered_vs_organic.htm |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #9 on: September 19, 2009, 04:17:13 PM » |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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98valk
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« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2009, 01:37:45 PM » |
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You have some real personel problems. Are u not the one who has argued in other threads that the honda engineers know what is best for the bike and no changes should be made? yet u change something that has a lot to do with safety, possiblity causing someone to get into an accident who doesn't know enough details about brake pads that would follow what u wrote. I was providing correct info that is the industry standard for brakes, and u respond with that 4th grade response instead of having an adult technical conversation on the subject. Maybe u have more recent info than I have and could have helped educate the family of riders on this board. But u decide not to. so be it. your on my block list from now on. God Bless you. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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