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Author Topic: running lean/popping-neede expert advice  (Read 2167 times)
rocketray
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« on: February 26, 2016, 12:04:43 PM »

My bike sat for awhile--3 months--and the carbs set up--I took the bike to the local Honda shop in Mckinney Tx for a rebuild--picking it up today it pops badly on the decel after revving it up---the bike has the Viking headers and needles and has always run great--while it was down and I did get the headers ceramic coated ..? would the ceramic coating make the headers flow that much better to do a rejet?? of if rejetting up to what and which jets??
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2016, 12:20:50 PM »

idle mixture screws are too lean. open them up 1/2 turn at a time until the major popping goes away. will never be 100% unless way too rich.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
big poppa pump
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San Antonio, TX


« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2016, 12:23:15 PM »

When was the last time you checked your vacuum tubing? I had popping on decel back in 2013 when I first got the bike and I traced it to rotting vacuum caps.
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1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod

PharmBoy
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Lawton, Ok


« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2016, 03:02:29 PM »

Also the gaskets between the heads and the intake manifolds may be leaking and causing a lean mixture because they were not changed. With the enging warm and at idle, spray propane fuel or starting fluid around each manifold/head connection. An increase in RPM will indicate a leaky gasket...Jim
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old2soon
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Posts: 23402

Willow Springs mo


« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2016, 05:45:27 PM »

Look at the carb clamps. 18 of them NEED to be snug. IF yer mech wasn't a Valkyrie mech he/she could have not done or forgotten "things".  Lips Sealed RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2016, 01:56:18 AM »

Time to desmog? ???
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Bigwolf
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Cookeville, TN


« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2016, 06:54:09 AM »

Be sure to check the cut valves and the tubing connected to them.  The cut valves are there for the sole purpose of eliminating decel poping.  5 of the 6 were bad on my bike at 25k.  I think most people overlook these when trying to fix decel popping.  Pray that you don't have to replace any of them.  They are quite pricey.
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2016, 12:43:42 PM »

 Shocked CA, when you say idle mixture screw, is that the same as pilot screw? Also I'm only idleing at about 500 rpm, could this be an issue to with popping? doesn't pop at idle just at decal and mainly in lower gears.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2016, 01:24:26 PM by Roidfingers » Logged
salty1
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"Flyka"

Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ


« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2016, 01:41:04 PM »

Deceleration popping is a lean condition. Many suggestions have been made to minimize it. An idle setting shouldn't cause your problem. These beasts tend to pop some.
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My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A

Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2016, 02:17:14 PM »

So you adjust this with the idle mixture screw ? or is that the same as pilot screw? The "D" shaped one?
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2016, 02:22:01 PM »

Shocked CA, when you say idle mixture screw, is that the same as pilot screw? Also I'm only idleing at about 500 rpm, could this be an issue to with popping? doesn't pop at idle just at decal and mainly in lower gears.

yes.
needs to idle 900-1000, any lower less oil pressure to cams and esp alt is not providing power to electrical system, its about 700-800 rpms its all battery.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Challenger
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« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2016, 02:27:03 PM »

All good suggestions above, but just to throw another scenario out there. I have redone the carbs on two different Valks that came back from a Honda dealership after carb cleaning work with the same symptons as you describe. After removing the slow jets I found them to be plugged. It took about 15 to 20 minutes each with an injector tip cleaning tool to unplug them. Standard carb cleaning soak would not do it.That is why some folks just opt to replace them rather than clean them. Also both of these bikes needed choke (enriching) to start even at 65°. After cleaning they would both start at 45° with no choke. Without being super vigilant they might not have gotten them clean.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2016, 02:35:36 PM »

Be sure to check the cut valves and the tubing connected to them.  The cut valves are there for the sole purpose of eliminating decel poping.  5 of the 6 were bad on my bike at 25k.  I think most people overlook these when trying to fix decel popping.  Pray that you don't have to replace any of them.  They are quite pricey.
I don't have the decel popping, but I'm not familiar with the cut valves. What are those ?
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #13 on: February 27, 2016, 03:46:16 PM »

So, I adjust the normal idle with the big fat grey knob correct? then make an pilot screw adjustment of 1/4 turn on all carbs ? Help Please.
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longrider
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Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #14 on: February 27, 2016, 04:11:50 PM »

Pilot jets should be set at 2 1/4 turns open after the jet has been seated.  Then reset the idle to 900 to 1000
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2016, 04:46:41 PM »

So longrider.  Which turn. left or right seats them and then turn back the other way 2 1/4. Then adjust my idle?
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2016, 05:43:39 PM »

righty tighty, lefty loosey.

set your idle first. then off. VERY LIGHTLY seat the idle mixture screws. with the viking pipes and stock 35 pilot jets 3 turns out will be about right. if one size larger PJ, then 2 1/2 out. start, warm up, short ride, reset your idle to 900 rpms.
I have viking pipes, air box mods, etc., and have done much tuning.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
Bigwolf
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Posts: 1501


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2016, 08:34:50 PM »

Be sure to check the cut valves and the tubing connected to them.  The cut valves are there for the sole purpose of eliminating decel poping.  5 of the 6 were bad on my bike at 25k.  I think most people overlook these when trying to fix decel popping.  Pray that you don't have to replace any of them.  They are quite pricey.
I don't have the decel popping, but I'm not familiar with the cut valves. What are those ?

Air cut valves - Number 24 on this parts diagram.  http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/50541208f870021c54bee64e/carburetor-components

The air cut valves shut off some of the air to the idle circuit when you let off the throttle.  This causes a rich idle mixture at decel  but returns to it's normal lean idle mixture when the engine vacuum returns to it's normal operating range.

Actually, this is the best price I have seen for these.  When I needed mine, the best price I could find was $78 each.
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Attic Rat
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VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


WWW
« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2016, 08:49:16 PM »

Best Prices I have found
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/5054120bf870021c54bee658/carburetor-components
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The Attic Rat Performance Works
Bigwolf
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Cookeville, TN


« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2016, 09:01:26 PM »



Thanks Bob
I had those guys in my parts bookmarks but my computer crashed so I am working from a tablet now.  No bookmarks.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2016, 04:08:37 AM »

Be sure to check the cut valves and the tubing connected to them.  The cut valves are there for the sole purpose of eliminating decel poping.  5 of the 6 were bad on my bike at 25k.  I think most people overlook these when trying to fix decel popping.  Pray that you don't have to replace any of them.  They are quite pricey.
I don't have the decel popping, but I'm not familiar with the cut valves. What are those ?

Air cut valves - Number 24 on this parts diagram.  http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/50541208f870021c54bee64e/carburetor-components

The air cut valves shut off some of the air to the idle circuit when you let off the throttle.  This causes a rich idle mixture at decel  but returns to it's normal lean idle mixture when the engine vacuum returns to it's normal operating range.

Actually, this is the best price I have seen for these.  When I needed mine, the best price I could find was $78 each.
Thanks, never knew about those  cooldude
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Attic Rat
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VRCC # 1962

Tulsa, OK


WWW
« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2016, 06:17:18 AM »

I spend a lot of money  with those guys each month. most of the time it is 40% off with free freight and no taxes plus they go off true list not inflated list price like most dealers do
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The Attic Rat Performance Works
Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2016, 06:33:58 AM »

Ok CA, so start the bike, and set my idle. Turn it off. Then close/seat/ screw by turning right till it barely touches. Then turn out/ left +- 3 complete rotations of the screw. Do all 6, then start and warm up and then reset idle. Correct?
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longrider
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Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2016, 07:08:40 AM »

Some may disagree here but I have seen first hand that it is be possible to run very rich if the pilots are opened too far. Fuel mileage drops dramatically.  So CA is right  with the Viking pipes it may be 3 turns but if you have an extreme raw fuel smell at idle you may want to trim them back 1/4 turn or more  as no two motors are the same.  And these settings are with 35 lows.  It would change if 38 lows are in there
« Last Edit: February 28, 2016, 07:11:40 AM by longrider » Logged
Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #24 on: February 28, 2016, 07:44:56 AM »

I have cobra 6 x 6 and no baffles. Stock carbs. So maybe just 2 3/4 turn to start. Also when you say turn you mean a complete rotation?
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rocketray
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Posts: 1024


« Reply #25 on: February 28, 2016, 07:56:33 AM »

thanx everybody for contributing to the thread----is it possible the jets weren't completely cleaned in the soaking solution?? but if they were slightly clogged with varnish it would have been popping BEFORE the rebuild right?-not just after--- So then back to all the vacum lines and all?Thanx again all--I have been riding  the wife's  Honda VTX1300R which is actually a relaxing low centered cruiser--it certainly slows a fella down compared to the Valk and her new Indian Cheiftain-good torque --great big fairing w/adjustable  windshield/Great Long travel suspension--the ride makes the Valk seem cheap-- but it just  doesn't have  the Valks power/scream and howl.....
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