DarkSideR
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Posts: 1793
To be good, and to do good, is all we have to do.
Pueblo, Colorado
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« on: March 25, 2016, 09:25:33 AM » |
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I recently installed a Belly Tank, and as per the instructions I wired the fuel pump to the Accessory lead under the right cover. As of right now that is the only source connected to the accessory leads. I have ordered a USB outlet to charge my cell phone on the long rides, and my question is;
Can more than one source pull from the accessory leads? If adding multiple sources to the accessory leads is not good, where else can I connect the USB Outlet to (directly to the battery)? FYI - I do not want a huge project adding relays, panels, fuse blocks, etc. whereas I am not good with electrical. I need to keep this one simple.
Thank you ahead for you input.
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2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer VRCC#34410 VRCCDS#0263 
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gordonv
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Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2016, 10:55:43 AM » |
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I wired my USB port directly to the battery, with the supplied in-line fuse.
My final decision was that I wanted power to this port at all times.
While riding, I wanted to either charge my devices or power my GPS or camera.
While stopped, I wanted to be able to charge any device I wished.
So a constantly powered port is what I wanted. After all, it'll only be a portable device charging. Most likely a cell or a tablet.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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sandy
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2016, 10:57:59 AM » |
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The acc fuse is rated at 5 amps. The wiring is also small so 5 amps is no problem, but lots more would cook the wires. If all you want is a cell phone charger, you're good to go. Don't add any driving lights or grip heaters.
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2016, 12:07:48 PM » |
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I wired a dual USB charging port into a saddlebag but put a switch on the power wire. The port itself draws a small amount of current when not in use, so I wanted to prevent motorcycle battery discharge. The kit came with a fuse.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2016, 12:16:00 PM » |
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Those fuse blocks really aren't too complicated. And they have outlets for power full time or just keyed. And they make it easy for any future add ons.
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« Last Edit: March 25, 2016, 06:11:32 PM by meathead »
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DarkSideR
Member
    
Posts: 1793
To be good, and to do good, is all we have to do.
Pueblo, Colorado
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« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2016, 12:26:51 PM » |
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The Facet Fuel Pump draws 1.6 amps, and (though I can't find a consistent answer) the USB appears to draw 1.5 amps. Since the accessory lead can handle up to 5 amps I should be fine wiring both the fuel pump, and USB outlet off the accessory leads. The USB Outlet kit I am buying also has a fuse inline. I think I should be fine with this configuration. Thank you for helping me get to this point. 
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2001 Valkyrie Super Tourer VRCC#34410 VRCCDS#0263 
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gordonv
Member
    
Posts: 5762
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2016, 03:23:33 PM » |
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I just saw a USB port online, which had 3.x A on it. I think something like 1.x A was the original, then I started seeing 2.x A. I know neither of those will allow my dash cam to work, I need to plug directly into the lighter port, other wise it says I've connected to a computer.
Gryphon Rider, I like the idea of the switch, but knowing me, I would either forget to turn it on when I need it, or off after I finish using it.
I'll see what I'll do after I get the IS and figure out some of the electrical attachments I want to add on. Maybe LEDs to show what is on/off? USB, Voltage, is just a couple of items.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Bighead
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« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2016, 03:54:39 PM » |
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Dude put a fuse block in it couldn't be more simple and use the 5A acc to trigger it.
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1997 Bumble Bee 1999 Interstate (sold) 2016 Wing
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Valkorado
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Posts: 10498
VRCC DS 0242
Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.
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« Reply #8 on: March 25, 2016, 04:23:06 PM » |
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Here http://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-2208-Universal-Accessory-Terminal/dp/B00E1ZRKX0is the easiest fuse block I could find. I've been using this on the Tourer for the last couple seasons, just hook it directly to the battery. It's small and limited, but perfect for what I needed (heated jackets and USB/12v charger). BTW, I got mine on eBay for about half that price.
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« Last Edit: March 25, 2016, 04:41:37 PM by Valkorado »
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Have you ever noticed when you're feeling really good, there's always a pigeon that'll come sh!t on your hood? - John Prine 97 Tourer "Silver Bullet" 01 Interstate "Ruby" 
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Roidfingers
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« Reply #9 on: March 25, 2016, 04:35:15 PM » |
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Just go straight to battery. Your probably only using it while riding anyway. That makes it simple. When you don't have anything plugged in to it there is no power loss.
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Paladin528
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2016, 04:48:14 PM » |
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Relays are your friend. I built a junction box hooked to the accessory lead. Currently it handles 3 loads up to 30A each. Though I will never push it that far.
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DK
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« Reply #11 on: March 26, 2016, 06:51:06 AM » |
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Bon S DigiSwitch is a great way to get power to the front of the bike. Get the 2 relay version.
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
    
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #12 on: March 26, 2016, 12:27:43 PM » |
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Gryphon Rider, I like the idea of the switch, but knowing me, I would either forget to turn it on when I need it, or off after I finish using it.
I don't use it very much, only on long trips if I need to charge away from 120VAC power, such as when tenting, and I haven't forgotten to switch it on or off. For everyone's information, keep in mind that a USB charging port puts out 5VDC, which means that the 12VDC current that goes into it is 5/12 of what is going out, plus efficiency loss. I haven't put an ammeter on one, but I would guess that the input current is approximately half of the output current, depending on the efficiency. E.g. a 2.0A USB port will draw somewhere between 1.0a and 1.3A @12VDC from the bike.
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