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Author Topic: Replacing final drive components  (Read 1597 times)
cogsman
Member
*****
Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« on: May 30, 2016, 09:42:04 AM »

Hi all,

I have a final drive with worn splines on the driven gear. If  I buy the new driven gear it also comes with the gear that connects to the pinion cup. Do I need to replace both of those gears together? I'm asking because I don't have the special tools called for in the manual and I certainly don't want to spend who knows how much to get them. If all I have to do is replace the driven gear then I'm fine.
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Chrisj CMA
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*****
Posts: 14765


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2016, 09:56:24 AM »

What you want to do is JUST replace the splines.  You buy a cheap Gold Wing final drive with very nice splines and press them into your driven gear.  Hubcaps is the expert at this, pm him and pick his brain
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2016, 10:20:43 AM »

What you want to do is JUST replace the splines.  You buy a cheap Gold Wing final drive with very nice splines and press them into your driven gear.  Hubcaps is the expert at this, pm him and pick his brain

I've slept since then, start first by searching this site for "1500 wing final"...

RickyD did it with new parts, but if you just change out the splines like I did,
you can skip worrying about shims because  you're still using the same
ring gear.

-Mike
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pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2016, 10:51:20 AM »

You can buy something like this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-Honda-Goldwing-GL-1500-Final-Drive-Differential-Gear-Shaft-/111997774723?hash=item1a13966b83:g:o2cAAOSw~oFXN3r3&vxp=mtr

and if you have access to a 20 ton press, arbor plates, and a few aluminum blocks, you can press the splines off your ring gear and press the goldwing ones on,, no setting up the lash and clearances as the gears and shims stay the same. Mike (hubcapsc) guided me through the procedure when I first got my bike, and I have been riding on the final since,, perfect. I reused the seals so my total costs were about $50 with shipping.  Be careful when sealing the case back together, follow the manuals instructions so you don't plug vent passages.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Valkpilot
Member
*****
Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2016, 03:37:43 PM »

You can buy something like this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-Honda-Goldwing-GL-1500-Final-Drive-Differential-Gear-Shaft-/111997774723?hash=item1a13966b83:g:o2cAAOSw~oFXN3r3&vxp=mtr

and if you have access to a 20 ton press, arbor plates, and a few aluminum blocks, you can press the splines off your ring gear and press the goldwing ones on,, no setting up the lash and clearances as the gears and shims stay the same. Mike (hubcapsc) guided me through the procedure when I first got my bike, and I have been riding on the final since,, perfect. I reused the seals so my total costs were about $50 with shipping.  Be careful when sealing the case back together, follow the manuals instructions so you don't plug vent passages.


Or, buy a final drive from a GW as suggested above, and take both to a local machine shop.

When you buy a final drive, try and buy the star hub with it.  It will be wear-matched to the splines in the cup.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2016, 05:56:29 PM »

You can buy something like this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-Honda-Goldwing-GL-1500-Final-Drive-Differential-Gear-Shaft-/111997774723?hash=item1a13966b83:g:o2cAAOSw~oFXN3r3&vxp=mtr

and if you have access to a 20 ton press, arbor plates, and a few aluminum blocks, you can press the splines off your ring gear and press the goldwing ones on,, no setting up the lash and clearances as the gears and shims stay the same. Mike (hubcapsc) guided me through the procedure when I first got my bike, and I have been riding on the final since,, perfect. I reused the seals so my total costs were about $50 with shipping.  Be careful when sealing the case back together, follow the manuals instructions so you don't plug vent passages.


Or, buy a final drive from a GW as suggested above, and take both to a local machine shop.

When you buy a final drive, try and buy the star hub with it.  It will be wear-matched to the splines in the cup.
I thought the GW star hubs were different than the Valkyries ?
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Valkpilot
Member
*****
Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2016, 06:19:17 PM »

You can buy something like this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-Honda-Goldwing-GL-1500-Final-Drive-Differential-Gear-Shaft-/111997774723?hash=item1a13966b83:g:o2cAAOSw~oFXN3r3&vxp=mtr

and if you have access to a 20 ton press, arbor plates, and a few aluminum blocks, you can press the splines off your ring gear and press the goldwing ones on,, no setting up the lash and clearances as the gears and shims stay the same. Mike (hubcapsc) guided me through the procedure when I first got my bike, and I have been riding on the final since,, perfect. I reused the seals so my total costs were about $50 with shipping.  Be careful when sealing the case back together, follow the manuals instructions so you don't plug vent passages.


Or, buy a final drive from a GW as suggested above, and take both to a local machine shop.

When you buy a final drive, try and buy the star hub with it.  It will be wear-matched to the splines in the cup.
I thought the GW star hubs were different than the Valkyries ?


No.  The drive housing and internal bits are different, along with the drive shaft being longer, but the star hub, spline cup, and pinion cup are the same.

One of the ways you can tell if you're getting a good final drive spline cup is to look at the star hub.  If it's in good shape, the drive splines should be in good shape.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2016, 06:55:11 PM »

Some of the GW and Valk star hubs are different.

The 88-89' are 6 spoked. All the rest of the GL1500 from 90-2000' are the same as the Valk.

I think I bought my spare GW final drive with flange for $25 + shipping.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2016, 07:24:15 PM »

You can buy something like this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-Honda-Goldwing-GL-1500-Final-Drive-Differential-Gear-Shaft-/111997774723?hash=item1a13966b83:g:o2cAAOSw~oFXN3r3&vxp=mtr

and if you have access to a 20 ton press, arbor plates, and a few aluminum blocks, you can press the splines off your ring gear and press the goldwing ones on,, no setting up the lash and clearances as the gears and shims stay the same. Mike (hubcapsc) guided me through the procedure when I first got my bike, and I have been riding on the final since,, perfect. I reused the seals so my total costs were about $50 with shipping.  Be careful when sealing the case back together, follow the manuals instructions so you don't plug vent passages.


Or, buy a final drive from a GW as suggested above, and take both to a local machine shop.

When you buy a final drive, try and buy the star hub with it.  It will be wear-matched to the splines in the cup.
I thought the GW star hubs were different than the Valkyries ?


No.  The drive housing and internal bits are different, along with the drive shaft being longer, but the star hub, spline cup, and pinion cup are the same.

One of the ways you can tell if you're getting a good final drive spline cup is to look at the star hub.  If it's in good shape, the drive splines should be in good shape.

Some of the GW and Valk star hubs are different.

The 88-89' are 6 spoked. All the rest of the GL1500 from 90-2000' are the same as the Valk.

I think I bought my spare GW final drive with flange for $25 + shipping.
Thanks guys  cooldude I never fail to learn something here.  cooldude
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Valkpilot
Member
*****
Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2016, 10:11:40 PM »



Some of the GW and Valk star hubs are different.

The 88-89' are 6 spoked. All the rest of the GL1500 from 90-2000' are the same as the Valk.


Thanks guys  cooldude I never fail to learn something here.  cooldude


Me too.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
cogsman
Member
*****
Posts: 260


Newmarket, Ontario, Canada


« Reply #10 on: July 03, 2016, 04:58:37 PM »

Wanted to give everyone who helped with their advice an update: it's done. It works. I rode! Hopefully nothing falls apart, but I did it!

A very gratifying experience. So from Xmas till now, here's what I've done:

Changed the setting on the carb needles to improve fuel efficiency after I added the stock mufflers
Removed and cleaned the air intake manifolds, replaced the o-rings
New tires (had this done at a shop)
Replaced front wheel
Replaced back wheel
Replaced front rotors
Replaced final drive
New propeller shaft
Replaced rear rotor with an IS rotor for the new 2J wheel
Replaced both front calipers
Replaced the left cylinder head gasket
Replaced the left cylinder head
Replaced left timing belt
Changed the fork oil (a good friend in Oshawa did this for me)
Checked all valve clearance
Changed the coolant
Changed the final drive oil
Changed the engine oil
Added an Eklipse 12V accessory unit

Wow, writing that out just floored me lol. Thanks to all of you. Couldn't have done it without you!!!

Here she is this morning up at Bond Head, Ontario:

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