clutch engagement post bleeding

[kodiakfisher]

So I have bled the clutch with the mity vac and have run at least a quart of Dot 4 brake fluid through the system.

Pulling fluid from the top adding as we go. Closing off bleeder while still having vacuum, empty container establish vacuum then open bleeder valve. Occasionally pull clutch in and sometimes get a bubble. Have pulled 2-3 6oz containers with no bubbles.

My dads Valk clutch engages at about 1 1/4 inches movement measured from the edge of the switch housing. my clutch engages right at 3/4 inches movement measured from the same edge of the switch housing.

My opinion and feeling is the clutch is engaging way too soon...Any thoughts or drive it and bleed it again.

Thanks in advance,

Doug E on the Valky

[Blackduck]

Are you doing this with the bike on the side stand or bike lift?
On a center lift crank the bars over to get the cylinder on the high side.

The lever end of the master cylinder needs to be higher than the discharge end to allow any air in the cylinder to bleed out.

Have had to take the cylinder off the bars before to get all the air out

[Ricky-D]

Doesn't sound to me that you have a problem. Seems pretty normal.

***

[WintrSol]

It does sound like one of them has air in the system, but the reference for the measurement is confusing - what are the  measurements relative to the grip? The one that is closer to the grip when the clutch disengages probably has air in it, which is likely in the banjo fitting (discharge end). Follow Blackduck's instructions for getting this end lower - you may have to unbolt the reservoir and move it - then VERY slowly pull the lever all the way to the grip. Hold a count of 5-10, then let it snap back; this will pull air out of the banjo as the fluid rushes back into the master cylinder. Repeat until the position of the lever when the clutch firms up moves away from the grip.

[kodiakfisher]

It does sound like one of them has air in the system, but the reference for the measurement is confusing - what are the  measurements relative to the grip? The one that is closer to the grip when the clutch disengages probably has air in it, which is likely in the banjo fitting (discharge end). Follow Blackduck's instructions for getting this end lower - you may have to unbolt the reservoir and move it - then VERY slowly pull the lever all the way to the grip. Hold a count of 5-10, then let it snap back; this will pull air out of the banjo as the fluid rushes back into the master cylinder. Repeat until the position of the lever when the clutch firms up moves away from the grip.

My dad and I have the exact same Valkyrie model, color etc. So we measured how far from the switch box with the directionals the clutch lever moves prior to clutch engaging. I believe I probably have a bit of air in the banjo bolt and will work on that.

Thanks for the responses, the last time about 30mins worth of bleeding we had the bike up on the lift and level. Is it just the top banjo bolt that is the issue or both of them.

I replaced all the aluminum levers, switches cases and brake and  clutch reservoirs with chrome ones so this is what created the problem with air in the system.

Thanks for the help guys will update when I know for sure.

Doug E on the Valky

[Bighead]

I have two VALKYRIEs and they both engage differently ,one engages closer to the grip while the other further out. No problems with either. Take it out and ride it,if it doesn't slip or not disengage there is no problem. Ride it.

[kodiakfisher]

I have two VALKYRIEs and they both engage differently ,one engages closer to the grip while the other further out. No problems with either. Take it out and ride it,if it doesn't slip or not disengage there is no problem. Ride it.

Thanks bighead, I just realize that my oil is brand new rotella and it really improved my clutch engagement and after bleeding the banjo with no change I basically decided f$#% it. I'm going to just ride and not worry about it anymore.

Ride safe!

[longrider]

Yours sounds about right to me.  If anything your dad had better check his brass busing in the clutch lever.  There should not be 1 1/2 inches of travel

[Bighead]

I have two VALKYRIEs and they both engage differently ,one engages closer to the grip while the other further out. No problems with either. Take it out and ride it,if it doesn't slip or not disengage there is no problem. Ride it.

Thanks bighead, I just realize that my oil is brand new rotella and it really improved my clutch engagement and after bleeding the banjo with no change I basically decided f$#% it. I'm going to just ride and not worry about it anymore.

Ride safe!
 

[kodiakfisher]

Finally solved...mostly

I changed out my older aluminum brake and clutch reservoir for chrome ones...totally not worth the hassle but I spent the money so lets figure this out right. 

There were two compounding issues. The extra layer of chrome in places didn't seem to allow the plunger to move all the way out. So once I filed down the lever stop to allow the lever and plunger to work together I was able to get another 3/8 of lever travel before clutch engagement so clutch engagement and disengagement happens pretty close to the center of the clutch lever travel slightly biased towards the grip but works good with no harsh clutch engagement.

Sometimes upgrades just are not worth it...

Doug E on the Valky.

[longrider]

Thanks for letting us know the outcome of your problem.