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Author Topic: Changing rear axle fluid  (Read 2548 times)
SteveC
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Posts: 96


Honolulu, Hawaii


« on: January 20, 2017, 04:45:00 PM »

Need some help.  I don't have the owners manual (anyone have a digital copy) and I have to change the rear axle fluid.   

1) what does the manual specify for the type / weight of fluid?
2) how much -  when do I know I've got enough in there?

Thanks in advance!
Steve
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Valker
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Wahoo!!!!

Texas Panhandle


« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2017, 05:02:57 PM »

I'm guessing you mean the final drive fluid. Bottom plug bolt is the drain, the large one about 1/2 way between bottom and top at the far rear of the unit is the fill hole. It takes 150cc of 80-90 wt Hypoid gear oil. If you don't want to measure, after draining, reinstall the bottom plug and fill to the bottom of the fill plug hole. When the bike is upright, full is when the fluid just begins to run back out of the fill hole. Do not mess with the chrome plug looking thing on top. It is a fixed vent. Look at the Valkyrie Norway site (maybe a search) to download a PDF version.
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SteveC
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Posts: 96


Honolulu, Hawaii


« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2017, 05:19:56 PM »

Excellent, exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks !

I'm guessing you mean the final drive fluid. Bottom plug bolt is the drain, the large one about 1/2 way between bottom and top at the far rear of the unit is the fill hole. It takes 150cc of 80-90 wt Hypoid gear oil. If you don't want to measure, after draining, reinstall the bottom plug and fill to the bottom of the fill plug hole. When the bike is upright, full is when the fluid just begins to run back out of the fill hole. Do not mess with the chrome plug looking thing on top. It is a fixed vent. Look at the Valkyrie Norway site (maybe a search) to download a PDF version.
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ledany
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Posts: 509

Paris, FRANCE


« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2017, 02:22:19 AM »

Robert says he can do it without taking the muffler away. I don't really get how he manages to do it so I took the muffler away first, it's not a big deal.  Cool
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bscrive
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Out with the old...in with the wooohoooo!!!!

Ottawa, Ontario


« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2017, 04:37:57 AM »

I just did mine with the muffler and saddlebags on.  Not an issue.
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ledany
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Posts: 509

Paris, FRANCE


« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2017, 11:26:11 AM »

Ô Brian, next time you change the fluid (summer or fall 2017  Wink), will you be kind enough to take some pix ? I like to learn and be smart once in a while !  coolsmiley
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2017, 12:54:43 PM »

The fluid can be changed, even with the pipes only an inch away from the refill plug, by using a long flexible hose and small funnel. Measuring quantity here will be necessary, and the fill-to-overflow-then-quit system will make a mess since at overflow, you will still have a full hose-full to overflow as well.

But why bother when you can do it when changing the rear tire much easier (well, on the 1500s anyway)?  We don't have no stinking single sided swingarm (but wish we did).
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Robert
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Posts: 16959


S Florida


« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2017, 05:14:27 PM »

Very easy to do  without removing the muffler. Take off the top fill plug with a spanner, then take out the bottom and have a pan ready to catch the oil.

Ok now for the fill, just put the bottom plug in and put a short hose on the gear oil. Put the hose in the upper fill and put enough in till it almost starts to run out or about 1/8th inch below the fill opening. Then with the pan still beneath the rear stand the bike upright and let the excess come out. It helps to have a piece of cardboard or plastic laying in the pan and under the rear to act as a spillway. Once all the extra drains out put back on stand and put in top plug with spanner wrench.

There is just enough clearance to remove and put back in the fill plug. Top plug has oring so dont tighten it to much it doesn't need it. All work is done with the bike on the stand the level check is done with the bike upright.

Here are a few picks to give you an idea of course you need to work out the drain pan but thats pretty much it. You are looking from the ground at the rear of the bike forward.







« Last Edit: January 21, 2017, 05:52:45 PM by Robert » Logged

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bscrive
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Posts: 2539


Out with the old...in with the wooohoooo!!!!

Ottawa, Ontario


« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2017, 05:20:03 PM »

Yep Robert,

That is what I did.  I used a length of 1/4" tube on the axle fluid bottle.  The bottle I got had a nozzle at the end that I put the tube on.
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Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2017, 05:54:08 PM »

Yep Robert,

That is what I did.  I used a length of 1/4" tube on the axle fluid bottle.  The bottle I got had a nozzle at the end that I put the tube on.

Yup easy I posted some pics, I also use a tube.   cooldude

Just as a general tip if for all, if you have not changed your rear end oil since new, then change it. The reason is sometimes there is dirt or shavings from the factory that need to get drained out. Not to mention a good synthetic will give you smoother ride and less heat. I know this is overkill but I change mine regularly since it takes nothing at all to do and does not require much fluid either.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2017, 06:13:51 PM by Robert » Logged

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ledany
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Posts: 509

Paris, FRANCE


« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2017, 11:03:55 AM »

I don't get it. Does it mean you fill from below ?  Shocked
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spud
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Posts: 47

London Ontario


« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2017, 11:17:29 AM »

Hi from spud
I don't post often but I read articles every day. I have a digital copy of the manual.
I have it in my hotmail inbox I don't know how to move it over here. If anyone is interested
and can walk me through the steps to post it here I will.
I have a 2014 blue Valkyrie that is waiting patiently for Ontario spring weather.
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bscrive
Member
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Posts: 2539


Out with the old...in with the wooohoooo!!!!

Ottawa, Ontario


« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2017, 12:24:18 PM »

I don't get it. Does it mean you fill from below ?  Shocked


I got a long enough quarter inch hose that I could fill it from above the mufflers from behind. You use the top fill hole
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Valker
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Posts: 2995


Wahoo!!!!

Texas Panhandle


« Reply #13 on: January 22, 2017, 12:36:27 PM »

Hi from spud
I don't post often but I read articles every day. I have a digital copy of the manual.
I have it in my hotmail inbox I don't know how to move it over here. If anyone is interested
and can walk me through the steps to post it here I will.
I have a 2014 blue Valkyrie that is waiting patiently for Ontario spring weather.

I just click download on the file. After it loads, there is an option that says "Show in folder". Click that link. When it shows in that list (it'll be the one on top of the list), either click on it or drag it to your desktop or click "send to" and send it to your desktop. After it's on your desktop, just double click it anytime you want to open it.
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Robert
Member
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Posts: 16959


S Florida


« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2017, 02:06:33 PM »

I don't get it. Does it mean you fill from below ?  Shocked

You fill from the top hole and either from above or below the muffler which ever you can get the fluid in with or are comfortable with. Once the fluid is in then stand the bike upright and allow the excess to flow out. You are on the side stand while filling so it will take more fluid than is required and it will not flow out.
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30395


No VA


« Reply #15 on: January 22, 2017, 03:30:13 PM »

I think what Ledany is asking on fill from below is..... How?

Well, if you secure the gear oil dope pointy nozzle straight to the clear tube (no small funnel), you can squeeze the jug and flow the dope uphill to the fill hole. (Squeezing jugs is always good.)

I never thought of that before.

I do mine off the bike on the bench anyway.

Most all of your US small gear oil jugs come with a pointy top (I don't know about the EU)





« Last Edit: January 22, 2017, 03:38:21 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
Robert
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Posts: 16959


S Florida


« Reply #16 on: January 22, 2017, 05:20:26 PM »

I think what Ledany is asking on fill from below is..... How?

Well, if you secure the gear oil dope pointy nozzle straight to the clear tube (no small funnel), you can squeeze the jug and flow the dope uphill to the fill hole. (Squeezing jugs is always good.)

I never thought of that before.

I do mine off the bike on the bench anyway.

Most all of your US small gear oil jugs come with a pointy top (I don't know about the EU)


Now you have the idea, it makes life so much easier. Especially for those like me that change the rear end oil regularly.  cooldude Thanks for the pics btw.
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Shrubbo
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Posts: 182

Australia


« Reply #17 on: January 22, 2017, 10:23:25 PM »

The bottle I bought came with a stem already built in. It was conveniently long enough to do the job from below as well to my surprise Smiley
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AdrianR
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Posts: 708


Far North Chicago Burbs'


« Reply #18 on: January 23, 2017, 02:11:08 PM »


Now you have the idea, it makes life so much easier. Especially for those like me that change the rear end oil regularly.  cooldude Thanks for the pics btw.
[/quote]

Hey Bob, great, informative post with pics.  I too replace mine when I change the oil.  I bought a bottle of synthetic gear oil (both amsoil and lucas oil...from my old bike)..one bottle will last several live times!  I use a skinny orange funnel I got at Meijer for a dollar...and measure the exact amount with a shot glass (no I do not use then for whiskey!)  Brain dead man...  It's just a good feeling when you know your baby has all fresh fluids!
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Robert
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Posts: 16959


S Florida


« Reply #19 on: January 23, 2017, 03:03:36 PM »

(no I do not use then for whiskey!) 

You have no idea what your missing it gives it that aged taste.  Cheesy
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