Looking for a Valk owner in the Austin/SA area to assist with a clutch problem.

[wellandfit]

Looking for a pal in the Austin/SA area to help me figure out what's going on with the clutch. 

[Firefighter]

Wish I was in Fredericksburg Texas, What kind of cluth trouble or help do you need?

[Gental Gaint]

You know.... this really needs to be over in the TEXAS section...........

I have been keeping up on your clutch problems... I'm over in Houston... you should try to 'reverse' bleed your system... Look on YouTube to understand what I'm talking about... you need a clean "pump style" oil can, clear tubing, DOT 4 fluid and go to town... I just did my front brakes doing it this way (been bleeding disc brakes like that for 20 years...) and it didn't take me 15 minutes... Good luck and just take your time....

[gordonv]

I had forgotten about the youtube thingy. You can find a lot of visual on there, to better understand what is being asked of you to do, if you haven't done it before.

Watch Dag's video on replacing the rear wheel, and you'll see what I mean.

For a lot of it, it doesn't even have to be a Valkyrie you are looking at, just something that shows clearly what you need to do.

[Gental Gaint]

Hey buddy... I found this for ya............

http://lifeisaroad.com/clutchlever.html

[wellandfit]

Thks guys for the considerate replies!  Here's my original post:  "The clutch lever on my 99 (86k miles) has little distance to the handle.  When I put it in gear it wants to serge forward even with the level fully engaged.  My mechanic bled the clutch, but little difference.  Is it time for a clutch replacement?"  Well, now the bike shuts down when I go from neutral to 1st.  Thankfully it's here at home.  I took the advice from others and purchased a bushing (the one on the bike was well worn).  It should arrive soon.  One thing I noticed is there is not a sleeve where the pivot bolt goes through.  Perhaps that's the cause for the loose lever.   Wondering if that is the cause of the essential problem.

Next step is to do a reverse bleed as suggested.  I am no mechanic to be sure, but will give it a go when I get thoroughly educated here and via any other source.  YouTube might just be the best guide.  Will check it out.

This is scary guys, because if the problem is in the clutch housing, I may have to bury the bike. 

[Hook#3287]

This is scary guys, because if the problem is in the clutch housing, I may have to bury the bike.

Whoa cowboy, don't be thinking terminal just yet.

Is there a bunch of play in your lever?  The lever could also be the reason.  I'd a thought your mechanic that bleed the system would have checked that out.  There should be a brass insert in the lever where the pivot bolt goes through.  If it's missing or deformed, I would buy a new lever (OEM $12 or so)

So for cheap money and easy work, replace the lever and bushing.  If you really want to rule out the lever being the culprit, you could also replace the pivot bolt, rod and boot.

Even if it's in the clutch and not the lever, master cylinder or slave, it's not a LARGE expense to fix.  Depending what is wrong, should be under $500, I would think.

I'm surprised no one's come forward in your area to help yet, but maybe post something in the TX board.

[N0tac0p]

when my bike was like that I found the plastic NIB on the switch had worn to the extent it was barely acting as it should.  I cleaned the end off and roughed it up.  applied a drop of quick set epoxy to the end of the NIB to ensure proper engagement and 5 years later still working......