rear tire bead leaking very slowly in 2 spots

[cookiedough]

well actually 3 spots.  2 are in the bead of the tire connecting into the rim donw inside bubbling out very slowly.  3rd pinhole is on the outside 1 mm above at most the rim on the groove line just a hair above the rim, but is not in the bead, but darn close.  I loose 2-3 psi every 2 weeks thus having to check the air pressure for sure once every week of riding.  Tire is 1/2 shot 5000 miles on it and still has near 5K miles to go before tread is gone (so about for me 2 years of riding).

I talked to the dealer tech who installed it 2 years ago today.  he said taking rear tire off the rim and trying to seal the tire again into the bead will probably not work will leak again in the same 2 places, plus that tiny pinhole just a smidge above the bead on the tire will still leak air out, just be 1 small pinhole vs. 2 more on the bead.

He thinks the rear tire was badly formed around the bead from the factory since I have had this issue since installed 2 years ago when tire new.  He told me to keep an eye on it and check psi every week for sure and if looses more psi, then probably should replace rear tire well ahead of its useful life.

Anyone had any luck going back to mfg. with 5000 miles on tire tops 1/2 shot and seeing if the tire mfg. will give say a 25-30 dollar discount on same tire or at least a tire from same mfg???  I should have done something about it last year but figured no biggie adding 2-3 psi every 2-3 weeks but after seeing now 3 bubbles coming out (2 on bead and 1 slightly above in the tire itself sidewall) it has me a tad bit concerned to let it go another 2 years of riding although the tread has about 5000 miles left on it, the tire bead and sidewall where the line goes across all around just off the bead was defunct from the factory is my guess.

anyone have any luck re-beading a rear tire to see if it seals better around the rim the 2nd time around?   spending say 50-60 bucks at a dealer for a remount for a near 1/2 shot rear tire seems not worth it when I have 2 more riding seasons left on it if I let it go all the way down on tread to replacing it.  Rear tire new was I think around 120 bucks or so?

Would putting a small dab of rubber cement on that very tiny pinhole right next to the rim seal the pinhole up for awhile anyways or will the rubber cement come off in no time flat? I do have some very sticky and thin clear bicycle round patches that I could cut to size flat next to the bead of the rim 1/16" of an inch from the rim and also use rubber cement to see it it holds on that tiny pinhole, but still would have 2 bead leaks tire to rim.

I doubt the tire will blow out anytime soon,  the rest of the tire still looks in VERY good shape. 

I will call up the tire mfg. anyways tomorrow to see what they say.  If I get the right person, maybe they will send me an identical new rear tire or at least 1/2 price of new which I feel I deserve since have gotten 1/2 life out of it even though has been doing this same thing since new 2 years ago?

[Hook#3287]

I'm guessing you left the brand name out on purpose.

Hopefully you'll get satisfaction from the manufacturer.

I'd change it ether way.

[hubcapsc]

A dirty place that could have been cleaned during the new tire
install could be the cause of the bead leaks, I've fixed a bead
leak on my tubeless lawn tractor tire by removing the tire,
cleaning both mating surfaces, and reinstalling. The (sidewall?)
pinhole is more problematic... maybe a patch from the inside?

-Mike

[longrider]

Don't pay to have it resealed.  Bite the bullet and put on a new tire after you talk to the manufacturer.  Between bead leaks and rim damage that was done at the stealer I bought my own changer and install at home.   No more troubles

[da prez]

  We change a lot of tires and the biggest problem is a dirty rim , I think, most do not clean the rims. They just add lube and if they leak , you hit the rim with a rubber hammer.  C L E A N  the rim and check for burrs. Lightly file and sand ( LIGHTLY) the burrs off and use a wax base tire lube. There are many types to use , but this is my preference. I have had some tires that were glued to the rims for racing.

                                       da prez

[Jess from VA]

You could try to break the bead entirely at home (on lift).  Use a C clamp and clean the rim all around with some 4-0 steel wool (or mark the leak points beforehand and just clean those areas), clean the tire bead too.  You could try a small inside patch on the pinhole, if you can get to it (probably not).  Then remount and see what you have.  If the leak is slow, you could just keep adding air before each ride, it's not likely to have a traumatic blowout or get worse quickly, and ride the rest of it's life.  RideOn sealant might fix it, but I understand that stuff stays near the center of the tire, not the rim edge.  Or get a new tire.... and make sure the rim is cleaned really well when mounted.

In 1969 at the Mobil station when we sold really used tires for 2-5 bucks and a mount for 2.50, sometimes we'd use Permatex gasket goop on a leaky rim that wouldn't clean up and stop leaking.  Messy.  Those 2 dollar tires generally held air, and that was about all they were good for.  (our boss/owner made Ebeneezer Scrooge seem like a nice guy)  Those tires were really intended to help someone with no spare to get home and get a new tire, but we knew those guys would drive on them until they turned into rubber bands (cause they'd come back for another 2 dollar tire).      

[Ramie]

I replaced a rear tire last spring that had numerous pin hole leaks in it.  My concern would be that if it has one pin hole now, how many more will develop.  Maybe none but maybe more and if you have to to all the trouble of pulling the tire and cleaning the the rim along the bead why not just replace it.

[cookiedough]

I emailed today the mfg., Shinko, on my SE890 Journey rear tire with a bad bead on the tire.  I highly doubt it was the dealer installer 2 seasons ago/5000 miles ago, but you never know and doubt my rim is bad, but never 100% sure unless you watch the installer that they cleaned the rim good and checked for any knicks or burrs that could cause a very slow pinhole leak in those 2 spots.

That 3rd spot is definitely not in the bead but just a smidge above it guessing 1/32", if that, from the rim  being VERY close.  That 3rd spot pinhole is actually in the tire groove line that circles around the entire tire that goes around the bead of the rim which is VERY close to the rim.  That is the one that scares me more so.

I will see what Shinko says, but guessing since their website states contact dealer where bought tire from for warranty issues,  Chaparral Motorsports being ONLINE retailer where I bought it from will not give a darn and say tough luck contact tire mfg.  I would hope 50 credit to be used towards another new shinko tire would be fair considering has tad bit over 1/2 tire expected life left and am 90% sure the tire was bad from the mfg. in the bead area in those 2 spots.

Is really my fault for keeping on for 5000 miles putting 2-4 psi in rear tire every 3 weeks or so and not checking it when I noticed it 3-4 months into having it installed.  I doubt anymore pinholes or leaks or blowouts will develop in next 3-4000 miles so will keep running it until then and monitor the tire pressure every week or so for the next 1-2 years. 

If no remedy or response back from Shinko email I sent, will see how the new front shinko 230 tourmaster installed yesterday at same dealer holds up in terms of any leaks or life expectancy to decide if shinko is stinko.... and not use them anymore.

I just expect a rear tire to last thru no fault of anyone 9K miles if no other issues caused the tire to go bad far from the useful life expectancy

[flash2002]

Haaaa now I see the problem, Shinko   , I would never install that brand of tire on my bike. Maybe some will say it's a good tire but, I like like to stick to a brand I know and trust.

[cookiedough]

Haaaa now I see the problem, Shinko   , I would never install that brand of tire on my bike. Maybe some will say it's a good tire but, I like like to stick to a brand I know and trust.

actually they promptly responded later today and said will replace the tire with 4500 miles on it no charge as a courtesy request after seeing pics of the 2 bead leaks and how much tread life I have left over 5K miles easily left on the tread, otherwise in good shape.  They still think it was faulty dealer install ruining the bead, but I think not. 

Say what anyone wants on Shinko, but good customer service like this is hard to come by these days.

[Firefighter]

I had a out of round Metzler and could get no help. Rode a few hundred miles and went back to Avon, threw the Metzler away a couple years later. I would change the tire, best of luck!

[Firefight100]

I have been running shinkos on my three bikes for several years now.  I have been nothing but happy with the mileage and drivability of their tires.  I will continue to run shinkos.  And yes I have tried all the other brands.

[cookiedough]

I had a out of round Metzler and could get no help. Rode a few hundred miles and went back to Avon, threw the Metzler away a couple years later. I would change the tire, best of luck!

that is way horrible customer service by Metzler if you only drove it say 300-400 miles when new and was out of round after balancing it originally.   Would not want another Metzler ever after them not stepping up to the plate on that one, especially at double the cost of a Shinko (and others).

I let my front Avon Cobra front tire go WAY too long being 7 years running it down to wear bars and last 2 seasons it handled like crap wobbling my front handlebars if letting go of hand grips violently from 40 down to 20 mph, enough so to tip the bike over if did not gently hold on to the hand grips.  replaced with shinko 230 tourmaster this Monday (yesterday) and NO MORE front end wobble.  Handling is better as expected as well as NO MORE jarring hard effect thru the handlebars over bumps in the road since that Avon Cobra was am sure hard as a rock being around 2 years past its prime.  ONLY time will tell if this shinko 230 holds up, but am going to stay on top of this shinko for sure.

I must be a gentle driver NOT braking though since I had dealer replace my front brake pads with new OEM ones I had that had almost 1/2 life left on them still as well were OEM from 2001 when bike was new still some 16 years later.  Now with new clutch and brake fluids all clear again,  the front brake lever ONLY have about 1 inch of use it brakes ASAP applying brake lever vs. the old front pads had to depress front brake lever 1 inch to get it to start braking - big difference still trying to get used to only 1 inch of brake lever depression vs. 2 inches or so on old front brake pads.

Dealer did say was time to replace clutch fluid had sediment in the reservoir just a little he cleaned up inside since was 7 years since I had that done as well and he said that was due ASAP, but even the brake fluid 7 years old was not bad at all still, but wanted it done yesterday same time good to go for another 5-7 years.    He said clutch fluids break down and get worse sooner than the brake fluid usually.

[saddlesore]

I agree with cleaning the wheel.   I'm wondering if you tried Ride On.  Open the valve, let the air out and get the Ride On in.   $15 could save a lot of time and effort.

[cookiedough]

I agree with cleaning the wheel.   I'm wondering if you tried Ride On.  Open the valve, let the air out and get the Ride On in.   $15 could save a lot of time and effort.

ride on does not get near the rim/bead though does it which is my sealing problem?  It is more for balancing (I just use wheel weights old school I guess?) and flat tires just on the more center tread correct?

I really do not think it was the installers fault, but possibly more so a bad bead from factory??   Who knows???